KATHMANDU // As Nilu Shah leans forward in her chair, her shoulder becomes an artists' canvas. The Nepalese tattooist Ujjwol Mathema is more than happy to needle in.
"I can only smile … it tickles," said Ms Shah, 24, of the bird's wing that is her first tattoo.
Organisers of the inaugural three-day Nepal International Tattoo Convention, which closed on Sunday, hope Ms Nilu's pleasure will be shared by others. They hope that one day so-called "tattoo travellers" will flock to the capital of the mountain state for body art, and that their visits will bring in badly needed tourist dollars.
Nepal's image in the West has historically been confined to Buddhism, Mt Everest backdrops and treks through the snow-capped Himalayas.
More recently, the nation has been the battleground of a divisive Maoist insurgency that forced some developed countries to issue travel advisories.
Since the decade-long civil war ended in 2006, it has struggled to develop its economy and its potentially vital tourist sector.
But in recent months, the country of 29 million people has launched several tourist initiatives - both private and state-sponsored - known collectively as Nepal Tourism Year 2011.
This year, the Canadian rock star Bryan Adams became the first Western act to play Nepal. Now, two months later, the nation has hailed the success of the Nepal International Tattoo Convention.
The tattoo shop owner and body art historian Mohan Gurung is credited as the creative force behind the convention. He said the aim was to launch an annual forum in which local and international body artists and tattoo enthusiasts "can interact and interpret tattoos as an art form and not just some abstract fad".
Mr Gurung said Nepal was the perfect place for such an event because of its tradition, location and links to unconventional, counter-cultural movements that stretch back to the Flower Power heyday of the 1960s.
On Friday, amid the sounds of punk and metal music, tattoo artists from Britain, Spain, Italy, Germany, Thailand, India and the United States, along with aficionados from around the world, converged on Kathmandu for the festival of bodypaint.
In 97 indoor stalls, tattooists displayed their artwork in booklets as enthusiasts browsed and some brave souls surrendered their skin.
Participants' motives were as diverse as the designs. Puskar Thapa, 20, a student, said having his name inked in on the underside of his left wrist was about being a part of pop culture.
"Guinness" Rishi, 70, from India, said his ambition was to "spread the message of world peace". Known as the "Human Flag Pole", Mr Rishi is listed in the Guinness Book of World Records for having the most national flags emblazoned on his flesh - 305 flag and 185 map tattoos.
He said he intended to add 30 more before the end of the convention.
For Yasramiya Chaudhary, from western Nepal, it's all about tradition. The 66-year-old was first tattooed at the age of 20 because it was mandatory in her tribe before marriage.
"Otherwise, my in-laws wouldn't eat anything I cooked," said Ms Chaudhary, whose hands, feet and chest are inscribed with tribal art.
Despite being an integral part of some of Nepal's ethnic cultures, tattoos have had a sketchy reputation in the nation's past.
They were once synonymous with the "free love" ideology made popular by the hippies who strolled Kathmandu's backpacker hub known as Freak Street during the late-1960s and 1970s.
Another reason for disparagement was cultural. For centuries, members of Nepal's lower castes would decorate their bodies with stars and moons in the belief that once their soul left their body they would be recognised in heaven.
Mr Gurung said that the perception of tattoos has changed in recent years and that they are now "becoming an acceptable art form".
Established 12 years ago, Mr Gurung's shop is one of the oldest tattoo parlours in Kathmandu. He said his clients range from tourists to college students and even to white-collar professionals. His waiting list is eight months' long, he said.
The beauty of Nepali art, with its colourful depictions of Hindu gods and goddesses, has helped Nepal become a popular destination for tattoos, said Mr Gurung.
"The underground scene has now transformed into a mainstream business," Mr Gurung said at his studio, Mohan's Tattoo Inn, in the tourist district of Thamel. There are roughly 30 tattoo parlours between the Thamel area and Freak Street, and more may be on the way.
Local tattoo artists, like Mr Mathema said there is room for improvement. "There's money moving in but they're not focusing on hygiene, quality or environment," said Mr Mathema, who opened his tattoo parlour, Ujo Tattoo, on Freak Street in February.
Mr Mathema said he wants to set a standard. His tattoo education began in Australia, and he has professional experience in Thailand, India and Dubai.
At the convention, Mr Mathema was one of the few artists who covered his mouth with a mask.
Health concerns, pain and indecision are common reasons to avoid tattoos, said Mr Mathema. But for diehard tattooists like these two, "tattoos aren't just tattoos".
"I have a relationship with my tattoos," Mr Gurung said of his 25 pieces of body art. "It's a collection of memories," he said, adding that the images are dedicated to his wife, children, friends and travelling experiences.
Sitting for her first tattoo, Ms Shah said she wanted her new image to be "special and different" from anyone else's design.
"For me, it's about the art and the feelings associated with it," she said. "I'll always have my first tattoo associated with this event [the first Nepal Tattoo Convention] and in some way I hope to be a part of an interesting history."
foreign.desk@thenational.ae
COMPANY PROFILE
Name: Lamsa
Founder: Badr Ward
Launched: 2014
Employees: 60
Based: Abu Dhabi
Sector: EdTech
Funding to date: $15 million
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The specs
Engine: 1.5-litre 4-cylinder petrol
Power: 154bhp
Torque: 250Nm
Transmission: 7-speed automatic with 8-speed sports option
Price: From Dh79,600
On sale: Now
COMPANY%20PROFILE%20
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What went into the film
25 visual effects (VFX) studios
2,150 VFX shots in a film with 2,500 shots
1,000 VFX artists
3,000 technicians
10 Concept artists, 25 3D designers
New sound technology, named 4D SRL
Predictions
Predicted winners for final round of games before play-offs:
- Friday: Delhi v Chennai - Chennai
- Saturday: Rajasthan v Bangalore - Bangalore
- Saturday: Hyderabad v Kolkata - Hyderabad
- Sunday: Delhi v Mumbai - Mumbai
- Sunday - Chennai v Punjab - Chennai
Final top-four (who will make play-offs): Chennai, Hyderabad, Mumbai and Bangalore
The specs
Engine: 2.7-litre 4-cylinder Turbomax
Power: 310hp
Torque: 583Nm
Transmission: 8-speed automatic
Price: From Dh192,500
On sale: Now
Mission%3A%20Impossible%20-%20Dead%20Reckoning%20Part%20One
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Greatest of All Time
Starring: Vijay, Sneha, Prashanth, Prabhu Deva, Mohan
DEADPOOL & WOLVERINE
Starring: Ryan Reynolds, Hugh Jackman, Emma Corrin
Director: Shawn Levy
Rating: 3/5
THREE
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Company Profile
Name: Thndr
Started: 2019
Co-founders: Ahmad Hammouda and Seif Amr
Sector: FinTech
Headquarters: Egypt
UAE base: Hub71, Abu Dhabi
Current number of staff: More than 150
Funds raised: $22 million
MATCH INFO
Burnley 0
Man City 3
Raheem Sterling 35', 49'
Ferran Torres 65'
The Pope's itinerary
Sunday, February 3, 2019 - Rome to Abu Dhabi
1pm: departure by plane from Rome / Fiumicino to Abu Dhabi
10pm: arrival at Abu Dhabi Presidential Airport
Monday, February 4
12pm: welcome ceremony at the main entrance of the Presidential Palace
12.20pm: visit Abu Dhabi Crown Prince at Presidential Palace
5pm: private meeting with Muslim Council of Elders at Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque
6.10pm: Inter-religious in the Founder's Memorial
Tuesday, February 5 - Abu Dhabi to Rome
9.15am: private visit to undisclosed cathedral
10.30am: public mass at Zayed Sports City – with a homily by Pope Francis
12.40pm: farewell at Abu Dhabi Presidential Airport
1pm: departure by plane to Rome
5pm: arrival at the Rome / Ciampino International Airport
The%20specs
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SPECS%3A%20Polestar%203
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ZAYED SUSTAINABILITY PRIZE
BEETLEJUICE BEETLEJUICE
Starring: Winona Ryder, Michael Keaton, Jenny Ortega
Director: Tim Burton
Rating: 3/5
Tottenham's 10 biggest transfers (according to transfermarkt.com):
1). Moussa Sissokho - Newcastle United - £30 million (Dh143m): Flop
2). Roberto Soldado - Valencia - £25m: Flop
3). Erik Lamela - Roma - £25m: Jury still out
4). Son Heung-min - Bayer Leverkusen - £25m: Success
5). Darren Bent - Charlton Athletic - £21m: Flop
6). Vincent Janssen - AZ Alkmaar - £18m: Flop
7). David Bentley - Blackburn Rovers - £18m: Flop
8). Luka Modric - Dynamo Zagreb - £17m: Success
9). Paulinho - Corinthians - £16m: Flop
10). Mousa Dembele - Fulham - £16m: Success
The biog
Marital status: Separated with two young daughters
Education: Master's degree from American Univeristy of Cairo
Favourite book: That Is How They Defeat Despair by Salwa Aladian
Favourite Motto: Their happiness is your happiness
Goal: For Nefsy to become his legacy long after he is gon
What is Folia?
Prince Khaled bin Alwaleed bin Talal's new plant-based menu will launch at Four Seasons hotels in Dubai this November. A desire to cater to people looking for clean, healthy meals beyond green salad is what inspired Prince Khaled and American celebrity chef Matthew Kenney to create Folia. The word means "from the leaves" in Latin, and the exclusive menu offers fine plant-based cuisine across Four Seasons properties in Los Angeles, Bahrain and, soon, Dubai.
Kenney specialises in vegan cuisine and is the founder of Plant Food Wine and 20 other restaurants worldwide. "I’ve always appreciated Matthew’s work," says the Saudi royal. "He has a singular culinary talent and his approach to plant-based dining is prescient and unrivalled. I was a fan of his long before we established our professional relationship."
Folia first launched at The Four Seasons Hotel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills in July 2018. It is available at the poolside Cabana Restaurant and for in-room dining across the property, as well as in its private event space. The food is vibrant and colourful, full of fresh dishes such as the hearts of palm ceviche with California fruit, vegetables and edible flowers; green hearb tacos filled with roasted squash and king oyster barbacoa; and a savoury coconut cream pie with macadamia crust.
In March 2019, the Folia menu reached Gulf shores, as it was introduced at the Four Seasons Hotel Bahrain Bay, where it is served at the Bay View Lounge. Next, on Tuesday, November 1 – also known as World Vegan Day – it will come to the UAE, to the Four Seasons Resort Dubai at Jumeirah Beach and the Four Seasons DIFC, both properties Prince Khaled has spent "considerable time at and love".
There are also plans to take Folia to several more locations throughout the Middle East and Europe.
While health-conscious diners will be attracted to the concept, Prince Khaled is careful to stress Folia is "not meant for a specific subset of customers. It is meant for everyone who wants a culinary experience without the negative impact that eating out so often comes with."
So what is Spicy Chickenjoy?
Just as McDonald’s has the Big Mac, Jollibee has Spicy Chickenjoy – a piece of fried chicken that’s crispy and spicy on the outside and comes with a side of spaghetti, all covered in tomato sauce and topped with sausage slices and ground beef. It sounds like a recipe that a child would come up with, but perhaps that’s the point – a flavourbomb combination of cheap comfort foods. Chickenjoy is Jollibee’s best-selling product in every country in which it has a presence.
More from Neighbourhood Watch:
Match info
Manchester United 0-0 Crystal Palace
Man of the match: Cheikhou Kouyate (Crystal Palace)
Notable salonnières of the Middle East through history
Al Khasan (Okaz, Saudi Arabia)
Tamadir bint Amr Al Harith, known simply as Al Khasan, was a poet from Najd famed for elegies, earning great renown for the eulogy of her brothers Mu’awiyah and Sakhr, both killed in tribal wars. Although not a salonnière, this prestigious 7th century poet fostered a culture of literary criticism and could be found standing in the souq of Okaz and reciting her poetry, publicly pronouncing her views and inviting others to join in the debate on scholarship. She later converted to Islam.
Maryana Marrash (Aleppo)
A poet and writer, Marrash helped revive the tradition of the salon and was an active part of the Nadha movement, or Arab Renaissance. Born to an established family in Aleppo in Ottoman Syria in 1848, Marrash was educated at missionary schools in Aleppo and Beirut at a time when many women did not receive an education. After touring Europe, she began to host salons where writers played chess and cards, competed in the art of poetry, and discussed literature and politics. An accomplished singer and canon player, music and dancing were a part of these evenings.
Princess Nazil Fadil (Cairo)
Princess Nazil Fadil gathered religious, literary and political elite together at her Cairo palace, although she stopped short of inviting women. The princess, a niece of Khedive Ismail, believed that Egypt’s situation could only be solved through education and she donated her own property to help fund the first modern Egyptian University in Cairo.
Mayy Ziyadah (Cairo)
Ziyadah was the first to entertain both men and women at her Cairo salon, founded in 1913. The writer, poet, public speaker and critic, her writing explored language, religious identity, language, nationalism and hierarchy. Born in Nazareth, Palestine, to a Lebanese father and Palestinian mother, her salon was open to different social classes and earned comparisons with souq of where Al Khansa herself once recited.