Ferdi review: French burger joint is a meaty addition to Via Riyadh

From croquettes and pasta to its eponymous patty, the Ferdi menu is at once elegant and opulent

The signature Mac Ferdi cheeseburger is deliciously messy. Photo: Ferdi

Via Riyadh, a luxury shopping, hospitality and entertainment locale in Saudi Arabia, opened its doors in May, featuring some of the world's coolest restaurants – from Spago by Wolfgang Puck to New York City’s star-studded hangout Raoul’s.

Of the two French concepts brought to the kingdom, the two-century-old Les Deux Magots brand and famed Parisian burger joint Ferdi, I went along to sample the latter.

Where to sit and what to expect

Located in Via Riyadh's Al Hada district, complete with valet service, Ferdi blows me away with its avant-garde look and monstrous size compared with its cosy Paris branch.

Super-comfy seating in the form of a long couch with mirrors above it provides that Instagrammable moment. A second, more intimate section is filled with stand-alone tables that can seat up to four persons.

The decor is a mix of pluck and sophistication, with rich velvet seating interspersed with fun elements such as stuffed toys hanging about the restaurant, which can seat 52 guests.

Ferdi was founded by husband and wife duo Alicia and Jacques Fontanier, and named after their son Ferdinand. It melds French cuisine with South American flavours, paying homage to the owner's Venezuelan roots.

The menu

While burgers are the main event, my dining companion and I begin our meal by choosing a selection of appetisers from the extensive menu.

The Greek nostalgia is a revelation – the dip combines a medley of fresh ingredients, including peppers, grilled eggplant, sun-dried tomatoes, basil, oregano and feta, and is served with mini pittas, kalamata olives and capers.

If, like me, texture plays a big part in the enjoyment of your meal, opt for the croquettes, which are crunchy and packed with flavour, over the guacamole and nachos, which were distinctly lacking in crunch.

If you want a taste of the cheesy creations Ferdi is known for, but without the mess, get the mac and cheese, which is tasty yet not overrich, even though it comes with mashed potatoes.

When it arrives, the Mac Ferdi cheeseburger looks just as I expected it to; a big, exciting, cheesy mass layered with strong elements – generous serving of bacon, beef patty and fried egg. It's a messy burger, and is best enjoyed as such.

For dessert, we had the churros Nucciola, which weren’t cooked to perfection, but the delicious chocolate sauce has us taking second helpings anyway.

Stand-out dish

The croquettes with Parmigiano cheese are beautifully cooked. The outer crust is perfectly crunchy, while the cheese stuffing is creamy, bordering on grand. You could easily snack on this dish by yourself plus get another to share. Even though they are deep-fried, the croquettes don't ooze oil or feel heavy.

A chat with the chef

Chef Llorenc Tapias is from Barcelona and has worked in Catalonia, the Basque country, France, the Canary Islands and Australia. He says his cooking style is “characterised by familiar, international flavours that are generous, fresh and cater to all tastes”.

The chef names eggplant as his favourite ingredient to cook with, saying: “It has become a universal food product that can be prepared in various ways. I like to make eggplant chips with honey and marine salt, for example.”

In addition to the dishes I tried, the chef recommends the baby heart of lettuce with hazelnut oil for vegetarians; cod ceviche and savoury smoked salmon for seafood enthusiasts; and fromage blanc for those with a sweet tooth.

Price point and contact information

The menu mentions the calorie count for each dish, but not its price. My party of two paid SAR400 ($106), including SAR60 for the cheese croquettes; SAR98 for the cheeseburger; and SAR35 for the churros.

Ferdi is open from 1pm to midnight on all days except Friday, when it opens from 2pm to midnight. Bookings can be made by emailing [e-mail] or online via Seven Rooms.

This review was conducted at the invitation of the restaurant