Hellenika review: A taste of the Mediterranean in Saudi Arabia

Many of the restaurant's dishes are infused with throubi, a wild herb found in the mountains of Greece

Salt-crusted sea bass at Hellenika. Photo: Abdulaziz Alkhaldi

Hellenika, on the shores of Khobar, is a fine-dining experience that makes visitors feel they've taken a wrong turn and ended up on a charming Greek island.

The restaurant opened last February in Al Matal complex overlooking the corniche and is just a short drive away from Bahrain.

The ambience

Entering Hellenika is like “stepping on a Greek island”, says Pawel Wiktorek, culinary director of Al Moajil Hospitality.

Indeed, the earthy interior — all washed woods, brass accents and shades of pastel blues paired with white — plus its beachfront location bring a distinctly Mediterranean vibe.

The restaurant offers indoor and outdoor seating.

Hellenika is the second venue developed by Al Moajil group, in partnership with restaurateur Marios George.

The menu

My dining companion and I started with flatbread topped with cherry tomatoes and oregano, served with sliced, crushed and whole olives.

The freshly baked dough was soft and a perfect accompaniment to the kakavia soup — a creamy blend of scallops, shrimp, vegetables and razor clam foam.

The most interesting dish from the hot mezze was the grilled talagani cheese, made with kataifi, candied lemon jelly and pistachio — an interesting Greek twist on the traditional Arabic delicacy that is sweetened with honey and sugar.

Those craving something green can opt for the garden salad, an eye-catching dish that includes tomatoes, capers, feta mousse, onion, oregano and capsicum.

Between courses, we sipped a refreshing drink called Resting on one's Laurels, comprising home-made laurel cordial blended with lime juice, thyme and eucalyptus.

For mains, we opted for the signature salt-crusted sea bass, served with tomatoes, Kalamata olives, raisins, capers and olive oil. The freshness of the fish was unlike any we'd tasted in the kingdom's other seafood restaurants.

We paired the dish with the Tzatziki Experience, which contains cool Greek yoghurt, cucumber, mint, beetroot, avocado and garlic, coupled with a warm salad of eggplants stuffed with red bell pepper, pine nuts, onions and tahini — for a touch of Arabian flair.

The standout dish

Hellenika saved the best for last, in the form of the magnificent and memorable Mastic Forest of Chios.

The dessert resembles a tropical forest of lemon thyme chocolate ganache, passion fruit cremeux and mastic tears, topped with a colourful array of edible flowers and a trail of wild berries.

Each bite is an adventure, offering a burst of unexpectedly powerful flavours.

A chat with the chef

Chef Evangelos Liakouris has worked in luxury hotels across Greece, including with chef Doxis Bekris in Costa Navarino and at Alain Ducasse's Greek restaurant Tudor Hall.

“My gastronomy has been shaped by a base of French cooking and techniques, as well as Greece's biodiverse ecosystem,” says Liakouris.

“I am inspired by the Blue Zones Ikarian diet, hence my use of only fresh vegetables and seafood, Mediterranean herbs, high-quality citrus and olive oil.”

The chef says throubi is his favourite ingredient to cook with.

“We import the rare wild herb exclusively for Hellenika directly from the Greek mountains. I incorporate it in our traditional Souvla dishes, which gives them a distinct flavour and aroma.”

Liakouris's recommendations from the restaurant's menu include the Hellenika garden salad for vegetarians, lamb kleftiko for meat lovers and seafood orzo for pescatarians.

Price point and contact information

Starters range from $13 to $39; mains go for between $35 and $180; and desserts are $8 for a scoop of sorbet, up to $19 for the Mastic Forest of Chios.

Reservations can be made by contacting 00966 920 012 579 or [e-mail].

This review was conducted at the invitation of the restaurant