VIRUNGA NATIONAL PARK, dRC // High above the war-battered plain, a giant silverback gorilla strips a plant of its leaves with green tombstone teeth. Five females nearby suckle their babies. The world can celebrate a small miracle in the eastern Congo.
Park rangers greeted the primordial scene with hushed astonishment after hacking for two hours though the verdant gloom of the jungle last Friday, the only sound the metallic ring of a machete on stringy vines and the din of insects.
In a clearing on the slopes of Mount Mikeno, a 4,500 metre-high volcano, a young gorilla - known as a blackback - carefully picked insects and seeds from his brother's shaggy black fur. An impish newborn clung to her mother's back, fixing the interlopers with shimmering dark brown eyes.
The park director, Emmanuel de Merode, later described the discovery of five newborns at the outset of a month-long census as "quite phenomenal", given that the endangered gorillas' habitat has long been a war zone in the conflict-ridden Democratic Republic of the Congo.
"They've had a growth of about 11 per cent in 10 years, less than two per cent a year. To get five births in a group of 30 is about 15 per cent growth. It's quite tremendous and very unusual," he said.
The infants are all war babies, born in the 15-month period since CNDP rebels wrested control of the eastern gorilla-sector of Virunga National Park from government forces in September 2007. The rangers the rebels drove away lost all contact with the park, home to 200 of the world's last 700 mountain gorillas.
Mr de Merode, a government employee, pulled off a diplomatic coup when he negotiated directly with the rebel leader Laurent Nkunda to allow rangers to return to the park, and to allow conservationists their first glimpse of the state of the endangered gorilla population.
The discovery "doesn't confirm anything about the population as a whole. That's what we're worried about and we'll only know that when the survey is completed in about three weeks' time," cautioned Mr de Merode, adding that only two of the seven family groups in the park had been located to date.
Each group takes its name from the dominant male, in this case a 200kg silverback called Kabirisi, who provided the assembled humans with a jolt of adrenalin as he crashed through the thick undergrowth, screaming and agitated, perhaps jealous of the attention being doted on his females.
The brief demonstration of dominance over, serenity returned. The giant pot-bellied gorilla resumed his Buddha-like position, brushing salami-like fingers over a face fixed in an imperious frown.
"Kabirisi tends to be standoffish a little bit, and lets you know when he's not happy," whispered a park employee, Pierre Peron.
While the adults were detached and contemplative, the young were curious to reach out to their human visitors. One juvenile twice rapped a journalist playfully on the leg before disappearing into a thicket.
Many of the rangers remained with the CNDP rebels in the forest and maintained the gorilla watch, but Mr de Merode pointed out that only the returning ranger Innocent Mburanumwe, whose father was also a ranger, could identify all the gorillas. Mr Mburanumwe and his green-uniformed comrades made respectful low grunting sounds as they moved through the group, identifying each individual by their noseprints - the wrinkles and marks on a gorilla's nose unique to each individual.
Mr de Merode said that despite their calm appearances, the imperilled gorillas could not have been indifferent to the battles that have raged around them.
"They were right in the middle of the war. Bukima (the closest ranger post) was on the front line and the fighting moved back and forth in that area," he said.
Eight gorillas were shot dead in the park last year. Kabirisi took over his group 10 years ago when the dominant male was killed by crossfire during fighting. Now the group numbers around 30, but rangers will have to make repeated visits to each group to be sure of how they are faring.
Despite a ceasefire in the months-long fighting, tracer from a heavy machine gun streaked across the sky close to the rangers' headquarters late last Thursday. Answering gunfire rattled up from the valley, in what a ranger said was a clash between the CNDP and Rwandan Hutu rebels based in the park.
Innocent Mburanumwe and his comrades are happy to be back to offer their gorillas what protection they can.
"It's been a long time since I've seen my gorillas. I've missed them," he said, checking his notes and video before leading the group out of the forest and leaving the gorillas to their fragile peace.
* Agence France-Presse
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Jigra
Starring: Alia Bhatt, Vedang Raina, Manoj Pahwa, Harsh Singh
Thank You for Banking with Us
Director: Laila Abbas
Starring: Yasmine Al Massri, Clara Khoury, Kamel El Basha, Ashraf Barhoum
Rating: 4/5
Our family matters legal consultant
Name: Hassan Mohsen Elhais
Position: legal consultant with Al Rowaad Advocates and Legal Consultants.
Moon Music
Artist: Coldplay
Label: Parlophone/Atlantic
Number of tracks: 10
Rating: 3/5
Joker: Folie a Deux
Starring: Joaquin Phoenix, Lady Gaga, Brendan Gleeson
Director: Todd Phillips
Rating: 2/5
LA LIGA FIXTURES
Saturday (All UAE kick-off times)
Valencia v Atletico Madrid (midnight)
Mallorca v Alaves (4pm)
Barcelona v Getafe (7pm)
Villarreal v Levante (9.30pm)
Sunday
Granada v Real Volladolid (midnight)
Sevilla v Espanyol (3pm)
Leganes v Real Betis (5pm)
Eibar v Real Sociedad (7pm)
Athletic Bilbao v Osasuna (9.30pm)
Monday
Real Madrid v Celta Vigo (midnight)
Living in...
This article is part of a guide on where to live in the UAE. Our reporters will profile some of the country’s most desirable districts, provide an estimate of rental prices and introduce you to some of the residents who call each area home.
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The specs: 2018 Nissan Patrol Nismo
Price: base / as tested: Dh382,000
Engine: 5.6-litre V8
Gearbox: Seven-speed automatic
Power: 428hp @ 5,800rpm
Torque: 560Nm @ 3,600rpm
Fuel economy, combined: 12.7L / 100km
Schedule:
Pakistan v Sri Lanka:
28 Sep-2 Oct, 1st Test, Abu Dhabi
6-10 Oct, 2nd Test (day-night), Dubai
13 Oct, 1st ODI, Dubai
16 Oct, 2nd ODI, Abu Dhabi
18 Oct, 3rd ODI, Abu Dhabi
20 Oct, 4th ODI, Sharjah
23 Oct, 5th ODI, Sharjah
26 Oct, 1st T20I, Abu Dhabi
27 Oct, 2nd T20I, Abu Dhabi
29 Oct, 3rd T20I, Lahore
Greatest of All Time
Starring: Vijay, Sneha, Prashanth, Prabhu Deva, Mohan
Ovo's tips to find extra heat
- Open your curtains when it’s sunny
- Keep your oven open after cooking
- Have a cuddle with pets and loved ones to help stay cosy
- Eat ginger but avoid chilli as it makes you sweat
- Put on extra layers
- Do a few star jumps
- Avoid alcohol
How to protect yourself when air quality drops
Install an air filter in your home.
Close your windows and turn on the AC.
Shower or bath after being outside.
Wear a face mask.
Stay indoors when conditions are particularly poor.
If driving, turn your engine off when stationary.
COMPANY%20PROFILE
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Normcore explained
Something of a fashion anomaly, normcore is essentially a celebration of the unremarkable. The term was first popularised by an article in New York magazine in 2014 and has been dubbed “ugly”, “bland’ and "anti-style" by fashion writers. It’s hallmarks are comfort, a lack of pretentiousness and neutrality – it is a trend for those who would rather not stand out from the crowd. For the most part, the style is unisex, favouring loose silhouettes, thrift-shop threads, baseball caps and boyish trainers. It is important to note that normcore is not synonymous with cheapness or low quality; there are high-fashion brands, including Parisian label Vetements, that specialise in this style. Embraced by fashion-forward street-style stars around the globe, it’s uptake in the UAE has been relatively slow.
If you go
The flights
There are various ways of getting to the southern Serengeti in Tanzania from the UAE. The exact route and airstrip depends on your overall trip itinerary and which camp you’re staying at.
Flydubai flies direct from Dubai to Kilimanjaro International Airport from Dh1,350 return, including taxes; this can be followed by a short flight from Kilimanjaro to the Serengeti with Coastal Aviation from about US$700 (Dh2,500) return, including taxes. Kenya Airways, Emirates and Etihad offer flights via Nairobi or Dar es Salaam.
The specs
Engine: 1.5-litre 4-cylinder petrol
Power: 154bhp
Torque: 250Nm
Transmission: 7-speed automatic with 8-speed sports option
Price: From Dh79,600
On sale: Now
COMPANY PROFILE
Name: Almnssa
Started: August 2020
Founder: Areej Selmi
Based: Gaza
Sectors: Internet, e-commerce
Investments: Grants/private funding
Bio
Born in Dibba, Sharjah in 1972.
He is the eldest among 11 brothers and sisters.
He was educated in Sharjah schools and is a graduate of UAE University in Al Ain.
He has written poetry for 30 years and has had work published in local newspapers.
He likes all kinds of adventure movies that relate to his work.
His dream is a safe and preserved environment for all humankind.
His favourite book is The Quran, and 'Maze of Innovation and Creativity', written by his brother.
'Morbius'
Director: Daniel Espinosa
Stars: Jared Leto, Matt Smith, Adria Arjona
Rating: 2/5