Saeed Al Hosani’s joy at returning home to Dalma Island

Residents tell of the joys and frustrations of life on Dalma.

Saeed Al Hosani returns home to Dalma Island on the passenger ferry after a week in Abu Dhabi. Mona Al Marzooqi / The National

DALMA ISLAND // Unlike the other passengers riding the ferry from Jebel Dhanna on the mainland to Dalma Island, most of whom are watching television, Saeed Al Hosani is on deck, facing the sea spray alone.

Mr Al Hosani leans against the hull of the ferry, which is loaded with about 10 passenger cars; his gaze set on the ripples and waves.

The 28-year-old is returning home to Dalma, where he was born, after spending a week in Abu Dhabi. He admits he has missed the ocean during his time in the capital.

Like most people in his community, he is strongly connected to the sea, enjoying the island’s tranquil beaches and days out fishing since the age of nine. On Dalma, it is not unusual for women to fish, said Mr Al Hosani, although his wife has so far been reluctant to learn.

The link with the sea influenced his choice of career with the coast guard, one of the few employers on Dalma.

As he talks, the ferry approaches the island with its rocky hills gleaming orange-brown. The buildings along the coast become discernible, the minarets of mosques standing out as the highest man-made structures.

Although it looks unchanged in decades, Dalma today is very different from the days of Juma Al Qubaisi’s youth. When he was born, around 1948, the pearl diving trade – which had provided a steady income to the community – was coming to an end.

“We have pearl traders and divers in the family,” said Mr Al Qubaisi. “My grandfather is from Abu Dhabi but lived here in Dalma; my father as well. Our origins are from Liwa.

“People would to come from Dubai and from all over the UAE because the water was rich in pearls.”

As more people arrived to trade in pearls, life on the island began to grow, said Mr Al Qubaisi. “The market was made of wood called Al Yuss from Tanzania. It burnt down before I was born. People then built a proper market and built houses.”

Goods such as rice, dates, sugar, medicines and herbs were sold and traders also brought wood from Iraq to build boats.

When he was a boy, Mr Al Qubaisi received instruction in the Quran from his father. The rest of his time was spent bird hunting and playing by the sea. As an adult, he first worked as a fisherman and then for oil companies.

With the arrival of more modern conveniences, life on the island is now much easier, he said.

“Alhamdulillah – everything is available, the children are happy,” said Mr Al Qubaisi. He said he would not change his quiet existence on Dalma for life on the mainland.

It is not a sentiment shared by everyone. About 40 houses lie deserted after families moved to Abu Dhabi on being given land, said Mr Al Hosani, who also owns a house in the capital.

Some of the deserted villas are across the street from the beachfront Dalma Ladies Club and the imposing blue-and-white Friday mosque.

The empty houses have fallen into disrepair and contrast sharply with those of neighbours who have large motor boats outside, as well as lush gardens with shrubs and flowers.

People leave for many reasons, said Mr Al Hosani. There are not enough places for boats at the marina and a project to extend it stalled three years ago. In bad weather the island can be cut off for days, meaning some items can become scarce while food is about twice as expensive as in Abu Dhabi, he said.

The local hospital is well-equipped but for visits to specialists, trips to the mainland are necessary. There is only one cafe to provide entertainment.

“It is hard to live on an island because people want to have a life,” he said.

However, he said leaving would also have its drawbacks.

“I grew up here,” said Mr Al Hosani. “I am used to the beach, the sea and fishing.”

Read more in our series:

■ Dalma Island has been centre of pearl diving for 7,000 years, say scientists

■ Special geology of salt dome island