It wasn’t the safest restaurant car park – hardly surprising as it was the hard shoulder of the E11 motorway on the Dubai-bound carriageway at Ghantoot – but it was one of the most convenient.
Generations of hungry drivers have pulled over for a bite to eat or a cup of tea at a trio of roadside diners on the Abu Dhabi side of the border between the two emirates. Not any more. A green fence and a new slip road have brought order to ordering your lunchtime biryani or afternoon karak.
In the past, the sight of the clogged-up emergency lane was a hallmark of the journey, with motorists parking opposite the Ghantoot Polo & Racing Club. From there to your table was just an easy, albeit sandy, walk.
Now Abu Dhabi Municipality has created a permanent diversion, with new roads stretching from either side of an Adnoc petrol station and rest stop. To those accustomed to parking next to Al Saha Restaurant, the only clue of how to get there now is a small red sign, visible near the exit of the Adnoc, which reads “restaurant” in English and Arabic.
As cars zip by, the restaurant’s gritty exterior makes it immediately apparent that parking has long been an issue, with a sign warning: “No parking road side”.
Inside, however, customers still tuck into biryani of all varieties and, most importantly, karak and masala tea.
“This road outside finished about one month ago now – we’ve lost a lot of business,” says Kunhabdulla K C Mamu – Abdulla for short – the restaurant’s Keralite manager.
He speaks forlornly, albeit with a sense of acceptance. “Before, this was all open,” he adds, pointing towards the motorway, now blocked off with a green wire fence.
Mr Mamu says the restaurant, which is open from 6am until midnight, has lost at least 80 per cent of its customers since the diversion was completed, with most people now just “going straight” past it.
While he has worked at Al Saha for six years, he says the restaurant is at least three decades old. Until a month ago, customers had parked on the adjacent hard shoulder.
Tea costs Dh1 per cup. Whether a competitive pricing strategy, or a charming remnant of past pricing, this previously allowed the restaurant to sell between 2,000 and 3,000 cups a day – come fog or sandstorm.
“Now, we’re mostly selling more like 100 to 150,” sighs Mr Mamu. “The busiest time now is lunch time – before it was every time, the whole time. Morning, lunchtime, dinner and evening tea time: it was always crowded.”
It is hard to hear him amid the loud rumblings of conversations, both hearty and morose, throughout the bustling restaurant. Emiratis stop for tea and quick bite to eat, while groups of workers take their time.
The back wall is lined with branded refrigerators and the walls and floors are a tile-maker’s dream. Meanwhile, the early afternoon sun shines through small photos of Barcelona footballer Lionel Messi, offering an abstract edge to the otherwise humble decor.
Mr Mamu continues: “The entrance to this restaurant is in the petrol station. In the evening this petrol station gets very crowded and traffic gets stuck. So, people who pass the entrance see there are too many cars and don’t come inside.”
Mr Mamu oversaw the installation of two red signs at the petrol station, which indicate the way to Al Saha. However, these are impossible to see from the motorway and if you miss the exit, it is a long detour to get back, one that most drivers would ill-afford the time to take. “I don’t know what I can do – that road closure is our main problem,” says Mr Mamu.
Because there are no residential areas to serve in the immediate vicinity, he says the restaurant’s main customers now are its most loyal motorists.
One of those is Krishnan Peter Fernando, a supervisor at cleaning company Tanzifco Emirates. Dressed in a white polo shirt, branded with his company name, he speaks enthusiastically about why he loves the restaurant.
“I’ve been coming for more than three years,” he says. “Everything is very good. The food is very good, it’s nice and healthy. The place is very clean – everything is very good.”
He visits the restaurant daily with a team of cleaners, who tuck into chicken and mutton biryani. He is equally fond of karak, as well as Arabic, Asian and European food.
Mr Fernando not been put off by the new diversion and has not found it problematic. However, whether this is because nothing will get between a man and his biryani, or the fact that he is visiting at lunchtime – when the petrol station is quiet – remains uncertain.
“Before I used to stop over there,” he says, pointing to the hard shoulder, “but now it is much safer.”
On the opposite end of Adnoc, there is another slip road, one that cuts back towards Abu Dhabi. It is subtle and almost camouflaged, with no signposting, but leads to Ghantoot Hill Palace Restaurant, a slightly glossier cafeteria with tables and chairs stacked outside.
Behind the building, a rooster and three chickens seek shade underneath a large palm tree. They are shortly joined by several more hens, emerging from a makeshift coop. An elderly, bearded Pakistani man relaxes against the wall, opposite a lorry carrying a large generator tied down with rope.
It is clear the restaurant is being renovated, and for good reason, according to the Indian manager, Asharaf Kulamullathil.
“We’ve been ‘fully closed’ for about three months. But for about five years we have been ‘half-closed’, because we’ve had no business,” he explains. Mr Kulamullathil says the restaurant has managed to retain its most loyal customers – some of whom have been regulars since it opened 17 years ago.
Aside from the renovation, he hopes that the new road will also bring good fortune once the restaurant reopens next week.
“Before, there wasn’t a fence. There was no crossing. It was open, but sometimes there would be accidents. People would sometimes lose control of their cars and cause accidents.”
The new Hill Palace will serve a range of food that includes Arabic, Pakistani and Indian cuisine, as well as the usual suspects: burgers, biryani and fresh juice.
It is one of many restaurants owned and operated by the Hot Burger Group, which has 10 signature Hot Burger outlets across Sharjah and Ajman. “A lot of our customers are Arabic people from Abu Dhabi,” he says.
“At the old Jebel Ali Emarat petrol station, we have a brand called Qasr Al Jabal and they have customers from the UAE defence force who have visited there for 20 years.”
However, despite such successes, he firmly believes that Hill Palace is the group’s best location, and a prime piece of real estate, due to its position on the E11 motorway.
“There are no rest places like this for drivers leaving from Abu Dhabi: they don’t have this much parking for big vehicles. And we have also have a refreshment area and toilets. We also built a prayer area,” he continues, pointing towards a small, shaded veranda.
The restaurant, which will start with ten staff members, hopes to reap the rewards of the new diversion. However, Mr Kulamullathil concedes that only time will tell.
“We will change gradually. We are just renewing some small things right now because we don’t know what will come – but we expect it will be good.”
halbustani@thenational.ae
Normcore explained
Something of a fashion anomaly, normcore is essentially a celebration of the unremarkable. The term was first popularised by an article in New York magazine in 2014 and has been dubbed “ugly”, “bland’ and "anti-style" by fashion writers. It’s hallmarks are comfort, a lack of pretentiousness and neutrality – it is a trend for those who would rather not stand out from the crowd. For the most part, the style is unisex, favouring loose silhouettes, thrift-shop threads, baseball caps and boyish trainers. It is important to note that normcore is not synonymous with cheapness or low quality; there are high-fashion brands, including Parisian label Vetements, that specialise in this style. Embraced by fashion-forward street-style stars around the globe, it’s uptake in the UAE has been relatively slow.
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Recipe: Spirulina Coconut Brothie
Ingredients
1 tbsp Spirulina powder
1 banana
1 cup unsweetened coconut milk (full fat preferable)
1 tbsp fresh turmeric or turmeric powder
½ cup fresh spinach leaves
½ cup vegan broth
2 crushed ice cubes (optional)
Method
Blend all the ingredients together on high in a high-speed blender until smooth and creamy.
BEETLEJUICE BEETLEJUICE
Starring: Winona Ryder, Michael Keaton, Jenny Ortega
Director: Tim Burton
Rating: 3/5
DIVINE%20INTERVENTOIN
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Meydan race card
6.30pm: Maiden; Dh165,000; (Dirt) 1,200m
7.05pm: Handicap; Dh170,000; (D) 1,200m
7.40pm: Maiden; Dh165,000; (D) 1,900m
8.15pm: Handicap; Dh185,000; (D) 2,000m
8.50pm: Handicap; Dh185,000; (D) 1,600m
9.25pm: Handicap; Dh165,000; (D) 2,000m
How to protect yourself when air quality drops
Install an air filter in your home.
Close your windows and turn on the AC.
Shower or bath after being outside.
Wear a face mask.
Stay indoors when conditions are particularly poor.
If driving, turn your engine off when stationary.
COMPANY%20PROFILE%20
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On the menu
First course
▶ Emirati sea bass tartare Yuzu and labneh mayo, avocado, green herbs, fermented tomato water
▶ The Tale of the Oyster Oyster tartare, Bahraini gum berry pickle
Second course
▶ Local mackerel Sourdough crouton, baharat oil, red radish, zaatar mayo
▶ One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest Quail, smoked freekeh, cinnamon cocoa
Third course
▶ Bahraini bouillabaisse Venus clams, local prawns, fishfarm seabream, farro
▶ Lamb 2 ways Braised lamb, crispy lamb chop, bulgur, physalis
Dessert
▶ Lumi Black lemon ice cream, pistachio, pomegranate
▶ Black chocolate bar Dark chocolate, dates, caramel, camel milk ice cream
Manchester City 4
Otamendi (52) Sterling (59) Stones (67) Brahim Diaz (81)
Real Madrid 1
Oscar (90)
Company%20Profile
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The specs
Engine: 2.7-litre 4-cylinder Turbomax
Power: 310hp
Torque: 583Nm
Transmission: 8-speed automatic
Price: From Dh192,500
On sale: Now
Match info
Manchester United 1 (Van de Beek 80') Crystal Palace 3 (Townsend 7', Zaha pen 74' & 85')
Man of the match Wilfried Zaha (Crystal Palace)
COMPANY%20PROFILE
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THE BIO
Born: Mukalla, Yemen, 1979
Education: UAE University, Al Ain
Family: Married with two daughters: Asayel, 7, and Sara, 6
Favourite piece of music: Horse Dance by Naseer Shamma
Favourite book: Science and geology
Favourite place to travel to: Washington DC
Best advice you’ve ever been given: If you have a dream, you have to believe it, then you will see it.
Company%20Profile
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UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Blackpink World Tour [Born Pink] In Cinemas
Starring: Rose, Jisoo, Jennie, Lisa
Directors: Min Geun, Oh Yoon-Dong
Rating: 3/5
The specs
Engine: 2.0-litre 4-cyl, 48V hybrid
Transmission: eight-speed automatic
Power: 325bhp
Torque: 450Nm
Price: Dh359,000
On sale: now
MEYDAN RESULTS
6.30pm Baniyas (PA) Group 2 Dh125,000 (Dirt) 1,400m
Winner ES Ajeeb, Sam Hitchcock (jockey), Ibrahim Aseel (trainer).
7.05pm Maiden (TB) Dh165,000 (D) 1,200m
Winner Galaxy Road, Antonio Fresu, Musabah Al Muhairi.
7.40pm Maiden (TB) Dh165,000 (D) 1,400m
Winner Al Modayar, Fernando Jara, Ali Rashid Al Raihe.
8.15pm Handicap (TB) Dh170,000 (D) 1,900m
Winner Gundogdu, Xavier Ziani, Salem bin Ghadayer.
8.50pm Rated Conditions (TB) Dh240,000 (D) 1,600m
Winner George Villiers, Tadhg O’Shea, Satish Seemar.
9.25pm Handicap (TB) Dh175,000 (D)1,200m
Winner Lady Parma, Connor Beasley, Satish Seemar
10pm Handicap (TB) Dh165,000 (D) 1,400m
Winner Zaajer, Fernando Jara, Ali Rashid Al Raihe
COMPANY%20PROFILE
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Confirmed%20bouts%20(more%20to%20be%20added)
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SPECS
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Company%20Profile
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Company%20Profile
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What is a calorie?
A food calorie, or kilocalorie, is a measure of nutritional energy generated from what is consumed.
One calorie, is the amount of heat needed to raise the temperature of 1 kilogram of water by 1°C.
A kilocalorie represents a 1,000 true calories of energy.
Energy density figures are often quoted as calories per serving, with one gram of fat in food containing nine calories, and a gram of protein or carbohydrate providing about four.
Alcohol contains about seven calories a gram.
Company Profile
Name: Thndr
Started: 2019
Co-founders: Ahmad Hammouda and Seif Amr
Sector: FinTech
Headquarters: Egypt
UAE base: Hub71, Abu Dhabi
Current number of staff: More than 150
Funds raised: $22 million