The ritual pouring of bitter Arab coffee in Bahrain in November 1971. Horst Faas / AP Photo
The ritual pouring of bitter Arab coffee in Bahrain in November 1971. Horst Faas / AP Photo

No matter how you like it, coffee has a hold over us



‘O Coffee! Thou dost dispel all cares, thou art the object of desire to the scholar,” begins the translation of the Arabic poem In Praise of Coffee, written in 1511.

There is no denying the world’s love affair with this dark brew. It has cast a spell over millions of drinkers with a fragrance that can be as mesmerising as musk. Precious like gold, it is cherished like a secret love.

And, according to legend, we owe it all to a goat. Or, rather, a group of dancing African goats. It is said that in the ninth century, an Ethiopian herder called Kaldi noticed his goats were agitated. He saw them eating special red berries, which he ate and soon felt as excited as his goats.

Kaldi took the fruit to a holy man. The man disliked the berries and threw them into the fire, where they released a pleasant aroma. The roasted coffee beans were then ground up and boiled, creating the world’s first cup of coffee.

Coffee lovers can celebrate their relationship with this drink through the first official #InternationalCoffeeDay which takes place on October 1. Dozens of cafes, associations and businesses will celebrate. This special occasion will also raise awareness of the plight of coffee growers and promote fair trade. Some cafes will be donating their profits to charity.

There is already an unofficial coffee day of sorts, on September 29, and so this week’s social media has been awash with trivia, special offers and quite exuberant declarations of love for coffee. Through this celebration, a new generation is discovering Johann Sebastian Bach (1685-1750) and his composition, Coffee Cantata, a short comic opera.

It is about a young woman named Aria who loves coffee so much that she will “turn into a shrivelled up roast goat” without it. Her father is against his daughter having any kind of caffeinated fun and threatens her: “If you don’t give up coffee for me, you won’t go to any wedding parties, or even go out for walks.”

A delightful piece and beautifully poetic. Aria captures the world’s love of coffee in these lines: “Ah! How sweet coffee tastes, more delicious than a thousand kisses, milder than muscatel wine. Coffee, I have to have coffee, and, if someone wants to pamper me, ah, then bring me coffee as a gift!”

But there is a happy ending. The two reconcile when the father agrees to give his daughter “permission to brew coffee” whenever she wants.

As for the Middle East, the relationship with coffee is more of family. Dating from 1450, it was in Yemen that the drink was first called gahwa and Mokha port was once the main coffee exporting site for the region. Coffee spread across the world via the Arabs and Turks.

It is a tradition in some homes that when a child gets permission to drink his or her first sip of Arabic coffee, it is like they are now “all grown up”.

More than just a pastime, the drink is a symbol of hospitality and chivalry.

No guest would ever leave an Arab home, or tent, without a cup of coffee. During the Second World War, when there was a global shortage of food and drinks, including coffee, the Bedouins residing here would crush and grind dates before boiling them into a brown-coffee-like drink to be served in traditional cups.

There are always new coffee shops opening up in the UAE, and there is even a coffee museum in Dubai. In it one discovers just how powerful the hold coffee has had on people, and continues to have around the world. For example, German soldiers in the Second World War carried an essential piece of equipment along with their weapons: a coffee grinder.

As a coffee lover myself, particularly of the organic type, I salute and thank the farmers who work hard behind the scenes to provide us with this magical drink that keeps us hooked and happy.

rghazal@thenational.ae

On Twitter:@Arabianmau

Tree of Hell

Starring: Raed Zeno, Hadi Awada, Dr Mohammad Abdalla

Director: Raed Zeno

Rating: 4/5

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If you go

The flights
Emirates and Etihad fly direct to Nairobi, with fares starting from Dh1,695. The resort can be reached from Nairobi via a 35-minute flight from Wilson Airport or Jomo Kenyatta International Airport, or by road, which takes at least three hours.

The rooms
Rooms at Fairmont Mount Kenya range from Dh1,870 per night for a deluxe room to Dh11,000 per night for the William Holden Cottage.

Specs – Taycan 4S
Engine: Electric

Transmission: 2-speed auto

Power: 571bhp

Torque: 650Nm

Price: Dh431,800

Specs – Panamera
Engine: 3-litre V6 with 100kW electric motor

Transmission: 2-speed auto

Power: 455bhp

Torque: 700Nm

Price: from Dh431,800

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MATCH INFO

Uefa Champions League last 16, second leg
Liverpool (0) v Atletico Madrid (1)
Venue: Anfield
Kick-off: Thursday, March 12, midnight
Live: On beIN Sports HD

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Baldur's%20Gate%203
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Starfield
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European arms

Known EU weapons transfers to Ukraine since the war began: Germany 1,000 anti-tank weapons and 500 Stinger surface-to-air missiles. Luxembourg 100 NLAW anti-tank weapons, jeeps and 15 military tents as well as air transport capacity. Belgium 2,000 machine guns, 3,800 tons of fuel. Netherlands 200 Stinger missiles. Poland 100 mortars, 8 drones, Javelin anti-tank weapons, Grot assault rifles, munitions. Slovakia 12,000 pieces of artillery ammunition, 10 million litres of fuel, 2.4 million litres of aviation fuel and 2 Bozena de-mining systems. Estonia Javelin anti-tank weapons.  Latvia Stinger surface to air missiles. Czech Republic machine guns, assault rifles, other light weapons and ammunition worth $8.57 million.

UPI facts

More than 2.2 million Indian tourists arrived in UAE in 2023
More than 3.5 million Indians reside in UAE
Indian tourists can make purchases in UAE using rupee accounts in India through QR-code-based UPI real-time payment systems
Indian residents in UAE can use their non-resident NRO and NRE accounts held in Indian banks linked to a UAE mobile number for UPI transactions

The specs

  Engine: 2-litre or 3-litre 4Motion all-wheel-drive Power: 250Nm (2-litre); 340 (3-litre) Torque: 450Nm Transmission: 8-speed automatic Starting price: From Dh212,000 On sale: Now

The years Ramadan fell in May

1987

1954

1921

1888

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Sanju

Produced: Vidhu Vinod Chopra, Rajkumar Hirani

Director: Rajkumar Hirani

Cast: Ranbir Kapoor, Vicky Kaushal, Paresh Rawal, Anushka Sharma, Manish’s Koirala, Dia Mirza, Sonam Kapoor, Jim Sarbh, Boman Irani

Rating: 3.5 stars