The ritual pouring of bitter Arab coffee in Bahrain in November 1971. Horst Faas / AP Photo
The ritual pouring of bitter Arab coffee in Bahrain in November 1971. Horst Faas / AP Photo

No matter how you like it, coffee has a hold over us



‘O Coffee! Thou dost dispel all cares, thou art the object of desire to the scholar,” begins the translation of the Arabic poem In Praise of Coffee, written in 1511.

There is no denying the world’s love affair with this dark brew. It has cast a spell over millions of drinkers with a fragrance that can be as mesmerising as musk. Precious like gold, it is cherished like a secret love.

And, according to legend, we owe it all to a goat. Or, rather, a group of dancing African goats. It is said that in the ninth century, an Ethiopian herder called Kaldi noticed his goats were agitated. He saw them eating special red berries, which he ate and soon felt as excited as his goats.

Kaldi took the fruit to a holy man. The man disliked the berries and threw them into the fire, where they released a pleasant aroma. The roasted coffee beans were then ground up and boiled, creating the world’s first cup of coffee.

Coffee lovers can celebrate their relationship with this drink through the first official #InternationalCoffeeDay which takes place on October 1. Dozens of cafes, associations and businesses will celebrate. This special occasion will also raise awareness of the plight of coffee growers and promote fair trade. Some cafes will be donating their profits to charity.

There is already an unofficial coffee day of sorts, on September 29, and so this week’s social media has been awash with trivia, special offers and quite exuberant declarations of love for coffee. Through this celebration, a new generation is discovering Johann Sebastian Bach (1685-1750) and his composition, Coffee Cantata, a short comic opera.

It is about a young woman named Aria who loves coffee so much that she will “turn into a shrivelled up roast goat” without it. Her father is against his daughter having any kind of caffeinated fun and threatens her: “If you don’t give up coffee for me, you won’t go to any wedding parties, or even go out for walks.”

A delightful piece and beautifully poetic. Aria captures the world’s love of coffee in these lines: “Ah! How sweet coffee tastes, more delicious than a thousand kisses, milder than muscatel wine. Coffee, I have to have coffee, and, if someone wants to pamper me, ah, then bring me coffee as a gift!”

But there is a happy ending. The two reconcile when the father agrees to give his daughter “permission to brew coffee” whenever she wants.

As for the Middle East, the relationship with coffee is more of family. Dating from 1450, it was in Yemen that the drink was first called gahwa and Mokha port was once the main coffee exporting site for the region. Coffee spread across the world via the Arabs and Turks.

It is a tradition in some homes that when a child gets permission to drink his or her first sip of Arabic coffee, it is like they are now “all grown up”.

More than just a pastime, the drink is a symbol of hospitality and chivalry.

No guest would ever leave an Arab home, or tent, without a cup of coffee. During the Second World War, when there was a global shortage of food and drinks, including coffee, the Bedouins residing here would crush and grind dates before boiling them into a brown-coffee-like drink to be served in traditional cups.

There are always new coffee shops opening up in the UAE, and there is even a coffee museum in Dubai. In it one discovers just how powerful the hold coffee has had on people, and continues to have around the world. For example, German soldiers in the Second World War carried an essential piece of equipment along with their weapons: a coffee grinder.

As a coffee lover myself, particularly of the organic type, I salute and thank the farmers who work hard behind the scenes to provide us with this magical drink that keeps us hooked and happy.

rghazal@thenational.ae

On Twitter:@Arabianmau

Brief scores:

Toss: Sindhis, elected to field first

Kerala Knights 103-7 (10 ov)

Parnell 59 not out; Tambe 5-15

Sindhis 104-1 (7.4 ov)

Watson 50 not out, Devcich 49

SPECS

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Power: 235hp
Torque: 350Nm
Transmission: Nine-speed automatic
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COMPANY PROFILE
Name: Almnssa
Started: August 2020
Founder: Areej Selmi
Based: Gaza
Sectors: Internet, e-commerce
Investments: Grants/private funding
Jigra
Director: Vasan Bala
Starring: Alia Bhatt, Vedang Raina, Manoj Pahwa, Harsh Singh
Rated: 3.5/5
Company profile

Company: Verity

Date started: May 2021

Founders: Kamal Al-Samarrai, Dina Shoman and Omar Al Sharif

Based: Dubai

Sector: FinTech

Size: four team members

Stage: Intially bootstrapped but recently closed its first pre-seed round of $800,000

Investors: Wamda, VentureSouq, Beyond Capital and regional angel investors

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How to protect yourself when air quality drops

Install an air filter in your home.

Close your windows and turn on the AC.

Shower or bath after being outside.

Wear a face mask.

Stay indoors when conditions are particularly poor.

If driving, turn your engine off when stationary.

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Director: Michael O’Shea

Starring: Eric Ruffin, Chloe Levine

Three stars

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Starring: Joaquin Phoenix, Lady Gaga, Brendan Gleeson

Director: Todd Phillips 

Rating: 2/5

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Producer: Maddock Films, Jio Movies
Director: Amar Kaushik
Cast: Rajkummar Rao, Shraddha Kapoor, Pankaj Tripathi, Aparshakti Khurana, Abhishek Banerjee
Rating: 3.5

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Predictions

Predicted winners for final round of games before play-offs:

  • Friday: Delhi v Chennai - Chennai
  • Saturday: Rajasthan v Bangalore - Bangalore
  • Saturday: Hyderabad v Kolkata - Hyderabad
  • Sunday: Delhi v Mumbai - Mumbai
  • Sunday - Chennai v Punjab - Chennai

Final top-four (who will make play-offs): Chennai, Hyderabad, Mumbai and Bangalore

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Name: Airev
Started: September 2023
Founder: Muhammad Khalid
Based: Abu Dhabi
Sector: Generative AI
Initial investment: Undisclosed
Investment stage: Series A
Investors: Core42
Current number of staff: 47
 
Cherry

Directed by: Joe and Anthony Russo

Starring: Tom Holland, Ciara Bravo

1/5

EA Sports FC 25
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UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets

Tales of Yusuf Tadros

Adel Esmat (translated by Mandy McClure)

Hoopoe

The specs

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Power: 150hp
Torque: 250Nm
Price: From Dh139,000
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