Jacob Zuma, South Africa's president, is displayed on a mobile device as he gives a televised interview in Pretoria, South Africa.
Jacob Zuma, South Africa's president, is displayed on a mobile device as he gives a televised interview in Pretoria, South Africa.

We shouldn't judge an entire continent by what happens in South Africa



On Monday Ellen Johnson Sirleaf, the recently retired president of the West African state of Liberia, was awarded a $5 million prize for what appears to be a  remarkably simple act – that of leaving office at the end of her term. Now that presidents-for-life are the exception, smooth transfers of power are not unheard of in West Africa. In December 2016, in Ghana, the former foreign minister Nana Akufo-Addo defeated the incumbent President John Mahama. It was the third time since 2000 that Ghanaians have voted a government out of office in a peaceful and clean election.

In the tiny state of Gambia, President Yahya Jammeh, who had ruled for 22 years and promised to remain in power "for a billion years", was defeated at the polls by a political exile who had been working as a supermarket security guard in London.

It is worth mentioning these success stories because the general impression of the continent is one of political and economic gloom. This is an understandable reaction to the high spirits of a few years ago when the slogan was “Africa rising”, a tale of huge growth prospects, investment potential and spreading democracy.

Like all grand narratives this obscures as much as it reveals. One of the reason for gloom is that three big economies of sub-Saharan Africa – Nigeria, South Africa and Angola – are also among the most sluggish. Partly this is due to the decline in the oil price, which has affected Nigeria and Angola, but also due to corruption and weak government, notoriously affecting Nigeria and now the hot topic in South Africa, where President Jacob Zuma is being forced out of office by the ruling party, the African National Congress.

There is a parallel with South Africa's neighbour, Zimbabwe, also ruled by a liberation movement turned party, ZANU-PF, but one which became a vehicle for the ambitions of long-term President Robert Mugabe. The army stepped in last year to force Mr Mugabe to resign, an outcome which was so clearly necessary that African leaders chose to turn a blind eye to the military coup.

The tanks on the streets may in the end prove to be more of a palace coup. The army moved into action after Mr Mugabe's wife Grace secured the dismissal of the civilian politician closest to the security forces, Emmerson Mnangagwa. Mr Mnangagwa is now in power, and promising to hold elections this year.  His task is to revive the economy without challenging the interests of the securocrats.

A better way of looking at Africa than the binary narratives of “Africa rising” versus “failed states everywhere” is to focus on a couple of distinct geographical areas. In West Africa, there is a strong sense of the importance of elections and vote monitoring, perhaps reflecting the fact that Ghana was a pioneer in achieving independence, in 1957.  This is not true everywhere, of course: in Cameroon, President Paul Biya, in power since 1982, shows no sign of retiring.

In southern Africa the problem is different: liberation movements which have become ruling parties are growing old and tainted with arrogant cronyism. We can see this in Zimbabwe, in South Africa where President Zuma faces charges of corruption and abuse of power, and in Angola, where the family of Jose Eduardo dos Santos, president for almost 38 years, became notably wealthy.

In Angola, Mr Dos Santos, who led Angola through long civil wars, concentrated power in his hands and weakened the ruling party, the MPLA.  But as his health declined, the temptation to put one of sons in his place as his successor proved a step too far, and the party took back control. His successor, Joao Lourenco, a general with a clean reputation, is trusted by the military to protect their business interests even as the public finances collapse. The new president must sort out the economy when oil production is set to decline next year.

Mr Zuma has no doubt been watching the fate of Mr Dos Santos, first with envy and then with some trepidation. On retirement the Angolan president was given a golden handshake in the form of legal protection from future prosecution. But the new president has been quick to remove his predecessor’s daughter, Isabel - said by Bloomberg to be the richest woman in Africa - from her post as head of the state oil company.

Mr Zuma would no doubt like legal protection for himself and his family. But that would be hard for South Africa to swallow. It still has an independent judiciary, which is determined not to be cowed by big men.  In this respect it stands out. With the media focus on South Africa, there is a temptation to judge the whole continent by what happens there. If the Zuma transition is a success, the continent will be rising again. If it fails, Africa will be finished. This is another simplistic narrative.

Due to its history, South Africa is different from other countries and perhaps its governance structures are more resilient. Instead of seeing the whole continent through a South African lens, it is always worth looking at other countries where people are pushing for reform and progress is happening, albeit slowly and not without setbacks.

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Blackpink World Tour [Born Pink] In Cinemas

Starring: Rose, Jisoo, Jennie, Lisa

Directors: Min Geun, Oh Yoon-Dong

Rating: 3/5

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The specs

Engine: 3.9-litre twin-turbo V8

Transmission: seven-speed

Power: 720hp

Torque: 770Nm

Price: Dh1,100,000

On sale: now

if you go

The flights

Direct flights from the UAE to the Nepalese capital, Kathmandu, are available with Air Arabia, (www.airarabia.com) Fly Dubai (www.flydubai.com) or Etihad (www.etihad.com) from Dh1,200 return including taxes. The trek described here started from Jomson, but there are many other start and end point variations depending on how you tailor your trek. To get to Jomson from Kathmandu you must first fly to the lake-side resort town of Pokhara with either Buddha Air (www.buddhaair.com) or Yeti Airlines (www.yetiairlines.com). Both charge around US$240 (Dh880) return. From Pokhara there are early morning flights to Jomson with Yeti Airlines or Simrik Airlines (www.simrikairlines.com) for around US$220 (Dh800) return. 

The trek

Restricted area permits (US$500 per person) are required for trekking in the Upper Mustang area. The challenging Meso Kanto pass between Tilcho Lake and Jomson should not be attempted by those without a lot of mountain experience and a good support team. An excellent trekking company with good knowledge of Upper Mustang, the Annaurpuna Circuit and Tilcho Lake area and who can help organise a version of the trek described here is the Nepal-UK run Snow Cat Travel (www.snowcattravel.com). Prices vary widely depending on accommodation types and the level of assistance required. 

BORDERLANDS

Starring: Cate Blanchett, Kevin Hart, Jamie Lee Curtis

Director: Eli Roth

Rating: 0/5

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How to protect yourself when air quality drops

Install an air filter in your home.

Close your windows and turn on the AC.

Shower or bath after being outside.

Wear a face mask.

Stay indoors when conditions are particularly poor.

If driving, turn your engine off when stationary.

Another way to earn air miles

In addition to the Emirates and Etihad programmes, there is the Air Miles Middle East card, which offers members the ability to choose any airline, has no black-out dates and no restrictions on seat availability. Air Miles is linked up to HSBC credit cards and can also be earned through retail partners such as Spinneys, Sharaf DG and The Toy Store.

An Emirates Dubai-London round-trip ticket costs 180,000 miles on the Air Miles website. But customers earn these ‘miles’ at a much faster rate than airline miles. Adidas offers two air miles per Dh1 spent. Air Miles has partnerships with websites as well, so booking.com and agoda.com offer three miles per Dh1 spent.

“If you use your HSBC credit card when shopping at our partners, you are able to earn Air Miles twice which will mean you can get that flight reward faster and for less spend,” says Paul Lacey, the managing director for Europe, Middle East and India for Aimia, which owns and operates Air Miles Middle East.

UPI facts

More than 2.2 million Indian tourists arrived in UAE in 2023
More than 3.5 million Indians reside in UAE
Indian tourists can make purchases in UAE using rupee accounts in India through QR-code-based UPI real-time payment systems
Indian residents in UAE can use their non-resident NRO and NRE accounts held in Indian banks linked to a UAE mobile number for UPI transactions

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The more serious side of specialty coffee

While the taste of beans and freshness of roast is paramount to the specialty coffee scene, so is sustainability and workers’ rights.

The bulk of genuine specialty coffee companies aim to improve on these elements in every stage of production via direct relationships with farmers. For instance, Mokha 1450 on Al Wasl Road strives to work predominantly with women-owned and -operated coffee organisations, including female farmers in the Sabree mountains of Yemen.

Because, as the boutique’s owner, Garfield Kerr, points out: “women represent over 90 per cent of the coffee value chain, but are woefully underrepresented in less than 10 per cent of ownership and management throughout the global coffee industry.”

One of the UAE’s largest suppliers of green (meaning not-yet-roasted) beans, Raw Coffee, is a founding member of the Partnership of Gender Equity, which aims to empower female coffee farmers and harvesters.

Also, globally, many companies have found the perfect way to recycle old coffee grounds: they create the perfect fertile soil in which to grow mushrooms. 

The specs
Engine: 2.7-litre 4-cylinder Turbomax
Power: 310hp
Torque: 583Nm
Transmission: 8-speed automatic
Price: From Dh192,500
On sale: Now
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TRAP

Starring: Josh Hartnett, Saleka Shyamalan, Ariel Donaghue

Director: M Night Shyamalan

Rating: 3/5

The specs

Engine: 1.5-litre turbo

Power: 181hp

Torque: 230Nm

Transmission: 6-speed automatic

Starting price: Dh79,000

On sale: Now