Egyptian artisans carve a path to world luxury markets - in pictures

With clients from Rihanna to Queen Rania, brands are harnessing traditional craftsmanship to bring country's cultural riches to the world

In this picture taken on February 20, 2023 dyed threads are hung out to dry at the Kahhal looms hand-made rugs workshop in the Basatin district of Cairo. In gold, silver, cotton and silk, Egyptian luxury brands are drawing on legacies of craftsmanship to lay the foundation for high-end Egyptian style. While fast fashion raged through the world, Egypt included, a dedicated group of professionals slowed down, learning age-old techniques in Cairo's artisan workshops. (Photo by Khaled DESOUKI / AFP)

One pioneer is master jeweller Azza Fahmy, whose Islamic art-inspired pieces have been worn by US pop star Rihanna and Jordan's Queen Rania

Ms Fahmy, who started off in an Old Cairo workshop about 50 years ago, says she focuses on designs that 'resonate with Egyptian identity'

Artists and artisans in Egypt, the Arab world's most populous country, draw from a history that spans ancient Pharaonic times and the Mamluk, Ottoman and modern eras

'We are lucky to be able to draw on 6,000 years of history,' says textile designer Goya Gallagher, founder of Cairo-based Malaika Linens, which makes high-end household pieces

'The main challenge is making sure our pieces are timeless, that they're very well made and always hand-made,' she said at the company workshop on the western outskirts of Cairo

But among the success stories, many Egyptian luxury goods makers say they labour against the odds

A once expansive pool of skilled artisans has shrunk, as young people turn their backs on skills passed down by families over generations

As businesses struggle to fill the talent gap, they also face an economic crisis that has devalued the Egyptian pound and restricted raw material imports

Egypt's efforts to support the handicrafts sector have been 'limited and sporadic', says the UN

Culture consultant Dina Hafez agrees that little is offered in the way of formal arts and crafts training

'The training of artisans is still essentially based on informal education and networks of apprenticeship,' says Ms Hafez, of Blue Beyond Consulting

'The sector lacks any structure. We need a real ecosystem. But for the moment, it's all based on personal initiatives'

She says Egypt can learn from Turkey and Morocco, 'where the opportunities and obstacles look a lot like Egypt', but which have managed to launch their designs on to the international scene

However, change is afoot

Ms Fahmy, pictured, says there is space in the market for works made by skilled artisans and 'good designers with creative minds and quality education'

Many designers hope to benefit from government initiatives to draw in investment and tourism revenue from Egypt's ancient wonders

At the Grand Egyptian Museum at the foot of the Giza pyramids, Egyptian luxury stores enjoy pride of place

Although its official opening has been long delayed, the museum offers limited tours and events, and the shops already 'showcase the best of Egyptian crafts', says the owner of one, Mohamed Al Kahhal

In Cairo's historic centre, linen company Malaika trains women from marginalised backgrounds in embroidery

Carpet maker Hend Al Kahhal is also bringing Egyptian identity to global frontiers

Mr Kahhal, pictured, says the family business works with designers 'to give a contemporary touch to Pharaonic and Mamluk motifs'

The Egyptian Handicrafts Export Council, under the Ministry of Trade and Industry, has long been working to showcase such Egyptian creations internationally

But Ms Hafez says she hopes for more progress in future, as often 'budget constraints, red tape and customs regulations don't exactly make things easier'

The question, she says, is whether Egyptian authorities 'are really aware of the soft power these creators can have'

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