Spooktacular sights

David Whitley's guide to Salem, Massachusetts, which still enjoys a 'witchy' appeal hundreds of years after its dark history.

Two people in witch costumes walk along the street next to the old Town Hall in Salem, Massachusetts. Joe Raedle / Getty Images

Why Salem?

In 1692, Salem went very dark indeed. The strange behaviour of a few children descended into a blizzard of accusations of witchcraft. Neighbours turned on each other, and the accused implicated others in a bid to stave off their executions.

Twenty “witches” were executed and five more died in jail, before the governor of Massachusetts’s wife was accused, and the madness was brought to an abrupt end.

The story is one that has resonated ever since – and Salem’s response to its notoriety has been unusual. Shame has been turned to wholehearted, often-kitschy embrace, with a wealth of attractions and tours based on a witchy, spooky theme. In October, in particular, the city goes overboard in the run-up to Halloween.

But the surprise is that Salem has more strings to its bow, with rich literary, cultural and maritime heritage blended in among a highly walkable, handsome city centre. The spell it weaves is not necessarily the one anticipated.

A comfortable bed

The Salem Waterfront Hotel (www.salemwaterfronthotel.com) is in a prime location on Pickering Wharf. There's plenty of parking, a small pool and a solid on-site pub/restaurant. Rooms are spacious, but they don't bust a gut to win any design awards – although there's little to complain about. Rooms cost from US$145 (Dh533).

For something more historic, the Hawthorne Hotel (www.hawthornehotel.com) is a Salem staple. The lobby is lined with books, floral-print sofas and information about the hotel's past. Rooms veer close to primly old-fashioned, but have comfortable beds. Double rooms cost from $167 (Dh613).

There are also a few B&Bs, of which the Morning Glory (www.morningglorybb.com) ramps up the period charm, with four-poster beds in a handsome Georgian house. Rooms cost from $160 (Dh588).

Find your feet

There are several museums (of varying quality) that attempt to tell the tale of the Salem witch trials, and the Salem Witch Museum (www.salemwitchmuseum.com) is the best of them. It's split into two halves – the first is all stage sets, dramatic narration and atmospherics; the arguably more interesting second half covers witch hunts throughout history.

From there, head into the centre of town, where you will find the Peabody Essex Museum (www.pem.org), the oldest art museum in the country. The collection is pretty good – with a large Asian influence – but its strength is thoughtful, innovative presentation. A great example is a painting in the maritime gallery with an unknown artist. Other works by the two most likely painters are displayed next to it, and the visitor is asked to make up their own mind whose handiwork it might be.

Making decisions is also the key component of Cry Innocent: The People versus Bridget Bishop (www.cryinnocentsalem.com). Best billed as interactive theatre, the audience acts as jury, deciding whether to commit Bridget Bishop – the first of the Salem "witches" to be hanged – to trial. The witness testimonies, a blizzard of information and pressure to accept the often absurd evidence give a good idea of how the hysteria was whipped up.

Meet the locals

Just out of the town centre, Salem Willows (www.salemwillowspark.com) is a park perched at the end of a small peninsula. Its rides and arcades make it popular with children, while during the summer months, the beaches provide respite from the heat.

Book a table

The Adriatic (www.adriaticrestaurantandbar.com) has a few outdoor terrace seats from where you watch the world go by, and a menu that specialises in seafood, but also offers other Mediterranean flair, including brick-oven pizzas and a $22 (Dh81) eggplant Parmigiana.

Fish is also to the fore at Finz (www.hipfinz.com) at Pickering Wharf. The $23 (Dh85) North Atlantic haddock with lump crabmeat, mashed potatoes and seasonal vegetables is excellent, and the waterside setting gives it a touch of class.

Shopper’s paradise

Shopping isn't Salem's strongest suit. There's a sea of chintz and vaguely witch-themed tat, but Wicked Good Books (www.wickedgoodbookstore.com) is a good bet for reading material, with an impressively large section on local history and the witch trials.

Modern Millie (www.modernmillieshop.com) is the most likeable boutique. It's full of cutesy, perky, retro dresses, with heavy helpings of sass.

What to avoid

Of Salem's several museums on roughly the same theme, the Salem Wax Museum (www.salemwaxmuseum.com) really doesn't add anything that the others don't do better.

Don’t miss

The Schooner Fame (www.schoonerfame.com) is a lovingly made replica of a 19th-century ship used as a privateer to capture British ships, and it's taken out for a sail on Salem Sound. It's a wonderfully peaceful way to explore the surrounding area, ogling beautiful waterside homes, vintage lighthouses and bird life. The crew are happy to let passengers have a go at hoisting the sails and are full of eagerly studied historical information about Salem and its surrounds. Two-hour trips cost $35 (Dh129).

Getting there

Return flights with Emirates (www.emirates.com) from Dubai to Boston cost from Dh4,700. From Boston airport, Salem is approximately a 40-minute drive away, which costs $50 (Dh184) by taxi or limo.