The welcome
I arrived at Palazzo Papadopoli by boat and entered as privileged guests have over the centuries, by the formal “porta d’acqua”. Stepping into the vast reception area with its soaring ceiling and original frescos, there was no desk or anything to distinguish it from a private palazzo. The first Aman in a European city, the hotel opened in June and is still the home of Giberto Arrivabene Valenti Gonzaga and his family, who live on the top floor and rent out the rest of the property to Aman Resorts. The hotel features two private gardens and a wooden altana, or traditional rooftop terrace, for spectacular sunset views over La Serenissima.
The neighbourhood
San Polo is one of the city’s oldest neighbourhoods. It’s only a short walk from the hotel’s back gate to the historic Rialto Bridge and its early morning market, frequented by chefs and locals. The Venice Art Biennial runs until November 24 and there are two key exhibitions nearby: a Rudolf Stingel exhibition at Palazzo Grassi partly owned by Franois Pinault, and When Attitude Becomes Form at Ca’ Corner owned by Fondazione Prada. The San Toma vaporetto (water bus) stop is next to the hotel with a direct line to St Mark’s Square and the Doge’s Palace, and you can also reach the hotel by gondola or water taxi.
The room
The 24 rooms come with unique architectural features, but all share a common aesthetic: colours are muted, the furniture sleek and contemporary and the bathrooms spacious with large tubs as well as powerful rain showers. The palazzo bedrooms are slightly smaller than the palazzo chambers and palazzo stanza rooms, which have views over the Grand Canal. The five signature suites include the Papadopoli Stanza, with views over the water and garden terrace and Tiepolo ceiling frescos in the bedroom and bathroom, and perhaps the most stunning, the Alcova Tiepolo Suite, with its Chinoiserie sitting room.
The scene
It will undoubtedly attract the Aman’s loyal following: A-listers and those who are looking for an intimate Venetian palazzo experience.
The service
You get your own guest assistant, but the young, mainly Venetian staff are still learning and they’re friendly and eager, rather than slick. The experienced concierge is excellent, however.
The food
The opulent red and yellow dining rooms, named after the coloured Rubelli silks that adorn their walls, serve Italian and Thai menus, so you can mix and match. Perhaps Paad Kratpow Nuea, wok-fried tenderloin of beef in chilli, garlic and basil sauce with baby zucchini in oyster sauce, for €22 (Dh108) or tenderloin of grain fed black Angus beef with summer truffle and thyme flavoured potato for €45 (Dh221). An al fresco Japanese restaurant has also opened in the Grand Canal-facing garden. Breakfast isn’t included and, at €28 (Dh137) for a rather basic Continental, expensive for what it is.
Loved
The creative programme of excursions led by historians, chefs and art experts, including after-hours access to major museums.
Hated
Having to ask three times for advice on what time I needed to leave for the airport.
The verdict
It’s certainly not cheap, but the palazzo is stunning and you’ll feel more like you’re a guest in a private home than a hotel.
The bottom line
A double room costs from €1,105 (Dh5,366) room only, including taxes. Aman Canal Grande Venice, Palazzo Papadopoli, Calle Tiepolo 1364, Sestiere San Polo, Venice, Italy (amanresorts.com; 00 39 041 270 7333).
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Other acts on the Jazz Garden bill
Sharrie Williams
The American singer is hugely respected in blues circles due to her passionate vocals and songwriting. Born and raised in Michigan, Williams began recording and touring as a teenage gospel singer. Her career took off with the blues band The Wiseguys. Such was the acclaim of their live shows that they toured throughout Europe and in Africa. As a solo artist, Williams has also collaborated with the likes of the late Dizzy Gillespie, Van Morrison and Mavis Staples.
Lin Rountree
An accomplished smooth jazz artist who blends his chilled approach with R‘n’B. Trained at the Duke Ellington School of the Arts in Washington, DC, Rountree formed his own band in 2004. He has also recorded with the likes of Kem, Dwele and Conya Doss. He comes to Dubai on the back of his new single Pass The Groove, from his forthcoming 2018 album Stronger Still, which may follow his five previous solo albums in cracking the top 10 of the US jazz charts.
Anita Williams
Dubai-based singer Anita Williams will open the night with a set of covers and swing, jazz and blues standards that made her an in-demand singer across the emirate. The Irish singer has been performing in Dubai since 2008 at venues such as MusicHall and Voda Bar. Her Jazz Garden appearance is career highlight as she will use the event to perform the original song Big Blue Eyes, the single from her debut solo album, due for release soon.
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JAPAN SQUAD
Goalkeepers: Masaaki Higashiguchi, Shuichi Gonda, Daniel Schmidt
Defenders: Yuto Nagatomo, Tomoaki Makino, Maya Yoshida, Sho Sasaki, Hiroki Sakai, Sei Muroya, Genta Miura, Takehiro Tomiyasu
Midfielders: Toshihiro Aoyama, Genki Haraguchi, Gaku Shibasaki, Wataru Endo, Junya Ito, Shoya Nakajima, Takumi Minamino, Hidemasa Morita, Ritsu Doan
Forwards: Yuya Osako, Takuma Asano, Koya Kitagawa
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Greatest of All Time
Starring: Vijay, Sneha, Prashanth, Prabhu Deva, Mohan
The specs
Engine: 2-litre or 3-litre 4Motion all-wheel-drive Power: 250Nm (2-litre); 340 (3-litre) Torque: 450Nm Transmission: 8-speed automatic Starting price: From Dh212,000 On sale: Now
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Israel Palestine on Swedish TV 1958-1989
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Rating: 5/5
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Starring: Colin Farrell, Cristin Milioti, Rhenzy Feliz
Creator: Lauren LeFranc
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Creator: Jenna Lamia
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Chinese Grand Prix schedule (in UAE time)
Friday: First practice - 6am; Second practice - 10am
Saturday: Final practice - 7am; Qualifying - 10am
Sunday: Chinese Grand Prix - 10.10am
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COMPANY PROFILE
Name: N2 Technology
Founded: 2018
Based: Dubai, UAE
Sector: Startups
Size: 14
Funding: $1.7m from HNIs
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What is Diwali?
The Hindu festival is at once a celebration of the autumn harvest and the triumph of good over evil, as outlined in the Ramayana.
According to the Sanskrit epic, penned by the sage Valmiki, Diwali marks the time that the exiled king Rama – a mortal with superhuman powers – returned home to the city of Ayodhya with his wife Sita and brother Lakshman, after vanquishing the 10-headed demon Ravana and conquering his kingdom of Lanka. The people of Ayodhya are believed to have lit thousands of earthen lamps to illuminate the city and to guide the royal family home.
In its current iteration, Diwali is celebrated with a puja to welcome the goodness of prosperity Lakshmi (an incarnation of Sita) into the home, which is decorated with diyas (oil lamps) or fairy lights and rangoli designs with coloured powder. Fireworks light up the sky in some parts of the word, and sweetmeats are made (or bought) by most households. It is customary to get new clothes stitched, and visit friends and family to exchange gifts and greetings.
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Match info
Athletic Bilbao 0
Real Madrid 1 (Ramos 73' pen)
Company profile
Company: Verity
Date started: May 2021
Founders: Kamal Al-Samarrai, Dina Shoman and Omar Al Sharif
Based: Dubai
Sector: FinTech
Size: four team members
Stage: Intially bootstrapped but recently closed its first pre-seed round of $800,000
Investors: Wamda, VentureSouq, Beyond Capital and regional angel investors
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