My Kind of Place: Segovia, Spain

The Spanish city enjoys a sense of time warp that’s an integral part of its character.

The skyline of Segovia, including the cathedral in the centre. Other attractions include a Roman aqueduct and Alcázar castle. Getty Images

Why Segovia?

Two stellar attractions at either end of the historic centre – the Roman aqueduct and the Disney-esque Alcázar castle – make Segovia an almost mandatory day trip from Madrid. But it’s a city better soaked up slowly than hared round, and works much better with a one- or two-night stay.

Segovia is extremely quiet at night, but oozes atmospherics. It’s almost universally handsome, carrying off a haughty Old Spain splendour among walls that manage to crumble elegantly, and winningly decorative facades.

The city stands proud in a prime position, staring out over the plains with mountains behind, and only fleetingly mixes with the modern world. That sense of time warp is an integral part of the character, though.

A comfortable bed

The Eurostars Plaza Acueducto (www.eurostarsplazaacueducto.com) is almost calculatingly bland chain fare, but provides nothing to moan about either. It does have location massively in its favour, though – it’s right opposite the aqueduct, and most rooms have at least a partial view of it. Double rooms cost from €64 (Dh265).

Just off the main square, Plaza Mayor, the 15th-century La Casa Mudejar plays up its historic detail – the wooden ceilings are gorgeous. But the romance is most evident downstairs in the spa, which brims with swoony period touches. Doubles cost from €55 (Dh228).

The Don Felipe at the Alcázar end of town applies just enough arty flair to liven up what's otherwise a solid, comfortable option, with spacious rooms and free Wi-Fi. Doubles cost from €60 (Dh248.50).

Find your feet

The No 11 bus from the out-of-centre train station will drop you outside Segovia’s spellbinding Roman aqueduct. It’s beautiful in its undulating arches, and an astonishing piece of engineering. There’s no mortar holding it together – just stone and meticulously applied mathematics.

There’s a gently sloping route up to the historic city from there, but head up the banks of steps instead to see the upper part of the aqueduct. The first in a trail of explanatory signposts marking a trail through the city’s private palaces, show-of-wealth towers and photogenic churches is found there.

Continue past the bulging, multi-tiered Gothic cathedral towards the Museo Gastronomico (www.museogastronomicodesegovia.es), which delves into the Segovia region’s rich food culture, then afterwards offers tastings of the best locally grown and raised produce.

Meet the locals

The Paseo del Salón de Isabel II is a rather magical terrace, just to the southern side of the old city walls. Towers rise up behind, a gorge runs below, and the newer parts of the city spread out beneath the snow-capped Cordillera Central mountains. Expect plenty of dog-walking locals coming to share the view.

Book a table

Segovia's food tends towards the hearty, with super-tender roast (preferably suckling) meats the speciality. Casa Duque is about as fiercely traditional as you can get in this respect, and the bow-tied waiters have been serving up suckling spring lamb since 1895. It's to be shared by two people and costs €46 (Dh191).

A variation on the theme comes at El Fogón Sefardí, where the suckling lamb is served with honey, plums and prunes in a tagine (€19 [Dh79]).

Shopper’s paradise

The major route through the historic city, going under various interconnecting street names, has plenty of shops along it, but there’s nothing to get hugely excited about. Duck onto Calle la Judería Vieja for more-interesting craft shops. Artesanía La Gárgola has plenty of endearing jewellery, metalwork and glassware, while opposite that, Taller de Alfareria specialises in pottery – in particular, cute, comical figurines.

What to avoid

Don’t visit under the assumption that because it’s Spain, the weather will be warm all year round. Segovia is high on a plateau in the centre of the country, which means it can require a fair few layers of clothing during the winter months.

Don’t miss

Segovia's castle – the Alcázar – is brimming with fairy-tale magic. It's full-on drawbridges, witch-hat turrets and teetering-on-a-precipice stuff. Inside, there's a cold stone harshness to it, but the decoration in some of the rooms is astounding. The main room, where models of all Spain's kings and queens sit in golden thrones just below the ceiling, is particularly impressive.

If you think the views from outside the Alcázar are good, brave the 152 spiralling steps up the main tower. From up top, the city unveils itself majestically – the cathedral jutting up highest to take pride of place with the mountain backdrop.

Getting there

Emirates and Etihad fly from Dubai and Abu Dhabi respectively to Madrid from Dh3,400 return, including taxes. High-speed trains (www.renfe.com) from Madrid to Segovia take less than 30 minutes and cost from €13 (Dh54).