Majestic views

My town The charm of Casares, Spain, is hard to beat.

The mountain village of Casares, Spain, is known for its winding roads and stunning views.

One of the most beautiful views in Andalucia is the first sighting from the winding mountain road of the "white village" of Casares clinging to the side of a rocky gorge and crowned by the ruins of a magnificent Moorish fortress. Another is the breathtaking vista from the fortress itself looking down over the lush Andalusian countryside towards the sea.

On a good day you can see the coast of Africa to the west with the unmistakable shape of Gibraltar rising craggily in the foreground. It's worth the effort of dragging yourself away from the beaches and golf courses of Costa del Sol to drive up through the Ronda Mountains to visit the birthplace of the founder of Andalusian nationalism, Blas Infante, 435 metres above sea level. Flat, comfortable shoes are essential for exploring the intricate network of winding streets leading up to the 12th century ruins so rich in history.

Here, Pedro the Cruel signed the Pact of Casares in 1361 with the Moorish king of Granada, leaving Casares as part of the Nazrid kingdom. Five centuries later, Casares withstood the might of Napoleon Bonaparte. The ruins of the 16th century Church of the Encarnacion stand in the grounds of the fortress. Badly damaged by anarchists during the Spanish Civil War, the church is locked and deserted, although the whole site is a protected historic area. Peer over the fortress battlements and you may catch sight of a short-toed eagle or peregrine falcon floating lazily below. Stop for lunch at La Terazza restaurant near the church for the view and a bowl of Casares soup.

If you are there in the first week of August, you will catch the Casares Feria with its colourful parades, concerts, dancing and spectacular closing fireworks display. It's a busy time on the Costas, though, and for those who prefer a more leisurely pace, spring is perfect. The district of Casares stretches right down to the coast and is rapidly becoming one of the most delightful areas on the Costa del Sol. Its excellent golf courses attract visitors all year round. The magnificent Valderrama and Sotogrande courses are now being challenged by new championship courses like Finca Cortesin, where a five-star hotel is being built along with a Jack Nicklaus golfing academy. Next year's Volvo Matchplay Championship is scheduled to be played at Finca Cortesin, bringing some of the world's top players to Casares.

In the meantime, the local council is busy improving the roads and pavements in time for the tournament, much to the delight of local residents. New taxi ranks have been established and hotels and restaurants are gearing up for an influx of tourists. Keen golfers should make use of the discount shops, where tee times can be booked more cheaply. There's one in Puerto de la Duquesa. While Valderrama is a "must" for many, you don't have to pay those prices for an enjoyable round. La Canada, El Paraiso, Almenara and La Reserva are cheaper, and there are plenty of other choices for the holiday golfer. Estepona, Dona Julia and Alcaidesa are all challenging tracks, if not in the same league as the big championship courses.

Golf aside, the Casares area is rapidly gaining a reputation for interesting restaurants. Turn inland off the A340 heading for Casares, drive past Finca Cortesin towards the mountains, and you will find three of the best. The Forge, run by the Englishman Mike Forge and his South African wife, Athene, is a favourite for Sunday lunch on the delightful vine-clad terrace in summer and near a roaring fire inside in winter.

Further on, Venta Victoria, specialising in local Spanish dishes, and Arroyo Hondo, sporting a varied and inventive menu, are also worth visiting. The pan-fried sea bass with sorrel cream is delicious. For a cheap and cheerful alternative there are several bustling beach bars, or "chiringuitos", to choose from on the beaches. The charm and beauty of the Andalusian mountain scenery is hard to beat, especially viewed from the train that runs from Algeciras up to the medieval mountain town of Ronda.

For another gastronomic treat, board the train at San Roque station and travel through the hills for an hour to the little town of Benoajan, a couple of stops before Ronda itself. It only costs ?7 (Dh35) return. Don't worry if the ticket office is closed. It only opens 20 minutes before the train arrives. From Benoajan station, it's a short walk to another hidden gem. Molino del Santo is an old olive and flour mill tucked away in the beautiful Natural Park of Grazalema converted into a delightful, quirky 18 bedroom hotel.

Get the 11.29am train and enjoy lunch under the shade of the willow tree with the soothing sound of the trickling steam. The service is timed perfectly to enable lunch guests to catch the 4.59pm train back down the mountain.