David Whitley
Why Linz?
If you’ve come for the Austrian stereotypes – grand Habsburg palaces, classical music and alpine cowscapes – then Linz’s forward-thinking, innovative modernity comes as a shock. Austria’s third-largest city is all the better for not being a tour-bus-crammed kitschbomb, however. Built at the spot where the River Danube turns to the east, Linz is understatedly pretty. Look up while wandering through the old city and you’ll find plenty of handsome stucco work. Take the vertiginous tram up to the Postlingberg Hill and there’s evocative, old-school charm.
But the overall feel is of a city looking to the future – more Google than apple strudel. Highly distinctive cultural attractions are showcased inside bold architectural statements, a large student population feeds a young energy and change is actively welcomed rather than fought against.
A comfortable bed
The Spitz Hotel (www.spitzhotel.at) embraces Linz's artistic verve, with different cultural organisations from the city having a hand in designing each floor. The rooms all have massive, individually designed screen prints behind the beds, and the bright-red, starburst-style sponges in the bathroom add to the quirk factor. Double rooms cost from €94 (Dh377).
The oddly shaped, glass-and-concrete blob opposite the neo-Gothic Mariendom cathedral is another design-focused joint. The Hotel am Domplatz (www.hotelamdomplatz.at) makes clever use of space, with gorgeous wooden floors, hyper-cool mood lighting panels and dreamy cathedral views. Doubles cost from €105 (Dh421).
For something evocatively old-fashioned, the Wolfinger (www.wolfinger.at) is primely positioned on Hauptplatz, the city's main hub. It has kept most of the rooms – some with vaulted roofs – furnished in a charmingly time-warped Regency style. Doubles cost from €119 (Dh478).
Find your feet
Kick off at the Schlossmuseum (www.landesmuseum.at/schlossmuseum), which stretches between the castle and a strikingly contemporary glass extension. The collection is large, and covers multiple topics – from technological developments in Upper Austria to armoury and natural history – but English-language signage is minimal. If picking one section, go for the folk-art collection – the painted wooden cabinets are absolutely gorgeous, and need little explanation.
From there, stroll through the largely pedestrianised streets of the old town until you emerge at Hauptplatz. Detour to the gigantic Alter Dom cathedral for a gawp at the OTT decoration, then finish at the big glass oblong on the riverbank, Lentos (www.lentos.at), Linz's modern-art museum. The permanent collection, which features the likes of Warhol and Klimt, is strong, but its strength tends to be in daring temporary exhibitions.
Meet the locals
There shouldn’t really be any excuse needed to take a walk alongside the Danube, but the Donaupark, along the southern bank, is a great place to catch joggers and dog walkers. It also acts as an open-air sculpture gallery – giant, weird art installations are evenly spotted on the grass.
Book a table
In keeping with the city's character, dining veers towards modern and inventive rather than hearty Austrian classics. Cook (www.cook.co.at) is a great example, marrying a fish-heavy Scandinavian ethos with Asian flavours. Top dishes include monkfish in coconut curry for €16.50 (Dh66).
Herberstein (www.herberstein-linz.at) is similarly playful, straddling homely and contemporary, often with surprising fusion ingredients in dishes such as the €21.50 (Dh86) stewed beef cheeks. The ivy-strewn garden is lovely when it's warm outside, too.
Shopper’s paradise
The old town is liberally sprinkled with shops that make you want to have a second look – homewares, design and independent fashion boutiques are prevalent. But Bischofstrasse has an almost 100 per cent hit rate. Among the antique stores and jewellers, Living (www.living-store.at) does fabulous giftware – all stone-carved figurines and beautifully quaint wooden radio sets. StandArt (www.standart.at) goes for ultra-bold cartoony trinkets, from dressed-up rubber ducks to garish toasters.
What to avoid
Never repeat this statement while in the city, unless you want to be lynched, but the Linzer torte isn’t all that special. The much-revered local delicacy, made with almonds, spices and red-currant jam, can often be a little too dry. Given that this is Austria, land of the tremendous, gooey cake, eating one may well feel like a waste of an afternoon’s ration.
Don’t miss
Linz's unquestioned star is the Ars Electronica Center (www.aec.at), which is all about technology and how it affects society. There's some pretty cutting-edge stuff in there, such as thought-controlled prosthetic limbs and high-end 3-D printers. But it's most fascinating where art, technology and sociological statement meet – such as the giant jigsaw puzzle of a man made from pieces of information about him that Facebook had stored.
Getting there
Emirates (www.emirates.com) flies direct from Dubai to Vienna from Dh2,225. Direct trains (www.oebb.at) from Vienna airport to Linz take about two hours and cost from €9 (Dh36).
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The Africa Institute 101
Housed on the same site as the original Africa Hall, which first hosted an Arab-African Symposium in 1976, the newly renovated building will be home to a think tank and postgraduate studies hub (it will offer master’s and PhD programmes). The centre will focus on both the historical and contemporary links between Africa and the Gulf, and will serve as a meeting place for conferences, symposia, lectures, film screenings, plays, musical performances and more. In fact, today it is hosting a symposium – 5-plus-1: Rethinking Abstraction that will look at the six decades of Frank Bowling’s career, as well as those of his contemporaries that invested social, cultural and personal meaning into abstraction.
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Our legal consultant
Name: Hassan Mohsen Elhais
Position: legal consultant with Al Rowaad Advocates and Legal Consultants
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Blackpink World Tour [Born Pink] In Cinemas
Starring: Rose, Jisoo, Jennie, Lisa
Directors: Min Geun, Oh Yoon-Dong
Rating: 3/5
Final results:
Open men
Australia 94 (4) beat New Zealand 48 (0)
Plate men
England 85 (3) beat India 81 (1)
Open women
Australia 121 (4) beat South Africa 52 (0)
Under 22 men
Australia 68 (2) beat New Zealand 66 (2)
Under 22 women
Australia 92 (3) beat New Zealand 54 (1)
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Greatest of All Time
Starring: Vijay, Sneha, Prashanth, Prabhu Deva, Mohan
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The specs
Engine: 1.5-litre turbo
Power: 181hp
Torque: 230Nm
Transmission: 6-speed automatic
Starting price: Dh79,000
On sale: Now
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The Perfect Couple
Starring: Nicole Kidman, Liev Schreiber, Jack Reynor
Creator: Jenna Lamia
Rating: 3/5
SPECS
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How to protect yourself when air quality drops
Install an air filter in your home.
Close your windows and turn on the AC.
Shower or bath after being outside.
Wear a face mask.
Stay indoors when conditions are particularly poor.
If driving, turn your engine off when stationary.
UAE SQUAD
Omar Abdulrahman (Al Hilal), Ali Khaseif, Ali Mabkhout, Salem Rashed, Khalifa Al Hammadi, Khalfan Mubarak, Zayed Al Ameri, Mohammed Al Attas (Al Jazira), Khalid Essa, Ahmed Barman, Ryan Yaslam, Bandar Al Ahbabi (Al Ain), Habib Fardan, Tariq Ahmed, Mohammed Al Akbari (Al Nasr), Ali Saleh, Ali Salmin (Al Wasl), Adel Al Hosani, Ali Hassan Saleh, Majed Suroor (Sharjah), Ahmed Khalil, Walid Abbas, Majed Hassan, Ismail Al Hammadi (Shabab Al Ahli), Hassan Al Muharrami, Fahad Al Dhahani (Bani Yas), Mohammed Al Shaker (Ajman)
RESULT
Norway 1 Spain 1
Norway: King (90 4')
Spain: Niguez (47')
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BEETLEJUICE BEETLEJUICE
Starring: Winona Ryder, Michael Keaton, Jenny Ortega
Director: Tim Burton
Rating: 3/5
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UAE rugby season
FIXTURES
West Asia Premiership
Dubai Hurricanes v Dubai Knights Eagles
Dubai Tigers v Bahrain
Jebel Ali Dragons v Abu Dhabi Harlequins
UAE Division 1
Dubai Sharks v Dubai Hurricanes II
Al Ain Amblers v Dubai Knights Eagles II
Dubai Tigers II v Abu Dhabi Saracens
Jebel Ali Dragons II v Abu Dhabi Harlequins II
Sharjah Wanderers v Dubai Exiles II
LAST SEASON
West Asia Premiership
Winners – Bahrain
Runners-up – Dubai Exiles
UAE Premiership
Winners – Abu Dhabi Harlequins
Runners-up – Jebel Ali Dragons
Dubai Rugby Sevens
Winners – Dubai Hurricanes
Runners-up – Abu Dhabi Harlequins
UAE Conference
Winners – Dubai Tigers
Runners-up – Al Ain Amblers
Company Profile
Name: Thndr
Started: 2019
Co-founders: Ahmad Hammouda and Seif Amr
Sector: FinTech
Headquarters: Egypt
UAE base: Hub71, Abu Dhabi
Current number of staff: More than 150
Funds raised: $22 million