A right royal stay at the heart of Jumeirah Beach

Rosemary Behan checks into the new wing of the Ritz-Carlton Dubai on JBR.

La Baie Lounge at the Ritz-Carlton, Dubai. Courtesy of The Ritz-Carlton, Dubai

The welcome

Although the driveway is crowded, the initial welcome from the doormen is assured. Inside at reception, I’m asked to take a seat while my check-in is prepared, which I never like doing. I’m then told that because the hotel is fully booked, I’ve been upgraded to the royal suite.

The neighbourhood

First opened in 1998, the hotel has a prime spot on the beach in front of JBR. The first wing is closed for renovation, and a brand new six-storey wing, which looks identical to the old one from the outside, opened earlier this year. The property has extensive private grounds and direct access to the beach.

The room

My room is on the top floor, has 220 square metres of space and offers two bedrooms, a kitchen, large living and dining areas, three balconies and a large bathroom with a double-size shower and Jacuzzi bath. The views of the beach are great and, like most of the other rooms, it offers a sense of peace, quiet, and privacy, away from the tourist hordes.

The service

The service in the restaurants and executive lounge is warm and gracious. The electronic operation of the window blinds, sound and TV system in my room is not very straightforward and I could have done with someone to show me how to use everything. Pillows ordered from the pillow menu arrive swiftly. When I return at sunset – the best part of the day – several staff are “turning down” my room, but I ask them to leave.

The scene

I see mostly European and Russian holidaymakers, typically staying for more than a few days; I meet several repeat visitors who love the hotel and its location. It’s also popular with Emiratis conducting meetings in the restaurants and executive lounge. Blue Jade, where I have dinner, is surprisingly quiet on a Friday night, but the choice of restaurants in the area must lure most visitors outside the hotel to eat.

The food

Blue Jade is a pan-Asian restaurant with a Vietnamese chef. We enjoyed the Vietnamese soup (pho) (Dh70), rice paper rolls (Dh70) and Szechuan aubergines with tofu and black bean sauce (Dh60) and black pepper beef (Dh145).

Loved

Going for a swim in the sea in the morning before the crowds arrive, and the spa, with its Moroccan theme, including keyhole doorways, polished marble floors, reflecting pools and mosaics. Having a massage here, rather than at one of the cheaper spas in the area, is a time-saving treat.

Hated

Apart from the lobby majlis, the decor of the hotel is rather bland and forgettable, with a beige, brown and cream colour scheme and generic-looking furniture. The executive lounge is on the ground floor rather than the top floor, and food is served via a buffet, which makes it feel less special.

The verdict

With all the new hotels in the city, including the Ritz-Carlton DIFC, most people seem to have forgotten about the original Ritz-Carlton Dubai, but for a weekend in the best location, where you can leave the car in the garage and forget about it, this place is hard to beat. Just don’t spend all weekend in your room.

The bottom line

Double rooms at the Ritz-Carlton Dubai (

; 04 399 4000) cost from Dh2,700 per night, including taxes.

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