The Tress Test

Three well-versed hairstylists on the standout styles and cuts from this season's fashion shows.

The fresh and undone look at Balmain's Paris Fashion Week spring/summer 2014 show. Photo by Catwalking / Getty Images

Look 1:

Fresh and Undone by Benjamin Mohapi

The British-born Benjamin Mohapi worked in some of the United Kingdom’s top salons before carving a niche for himself in the fashion and entertainment industries. He has worked on editorial and fashion projects for Vogue, ID, Nylon, GQ and Marie Claire, and with photographers such as Rankin, David LaChapelle and the late Herb Ritts. In 2011, he launched Los Angeles’s go-to salon, Benjamin.

“The trend that stands out for me from the spring shows is this clean, fresh and undone feeling that was seen all over the runways, notably Balmain [pictured] and Burberry Prorsum. Hair textures and styles seemed to be left free of all products and allowed to move and flow with a sense of lightness and freedom. This gives the impression of a careless youthfulness and an easy-going attitude.

“Luckily for us, it is a very easy look to achieve, as long as you are content with the texture of your hair. Simply shampoo and towel dry, allowing the hair to dry without using anything. You can finish by rough drying with a dryer but there’s no need to brush.

“Of course, if your hair is too curly and frizzy for the wash-and-leave look, you can cheat the undone feeling. Just blow-dry the hair straight at night then split the hair down the centre and loosely braid each side. Go to bed, and undo the braids when you wake up, then gently brush the hair out. Make sure you don’t brush too much – this is supposed to be an unkempt, natural look. Avoid using any holding products and allow the hair to flow.”

Look 2:

The Bob by Yumi Yakushijin

After spending 12 years hairdressing in Japan, Yakushijin moved to Dubai in 2010 and founded Salon Nadeshiko in Dubai International Financial Centre in 2013, where she is the creative director. Today, aside from being one of the few salons in Dubai offering digital perms, Salon Nadeshiko has also begun offering nail-art services.

“Bobs are expected to be popular for 2014, as seen at Marc Jacobs [pictured]. To obtain the look, it is important that the stylist achieves a good fundamental shape through the haircut. Angular bobs, which are shorter at the back and longer on the sides, add an updated feel to the look.

“This summer, styling is more loose than before – just leaving your hair to dry naturally with some anti-frizz products will do the trick nicely, no hair dryer necessary. However, if your tastes veer more towards the slick bob, styling is simple through the following steps: Prep the hair with a volume spray or root lift. Blow dry with a strong hairdryer to lift up the roots. Apply some wax and shape as desired. Finish with some hairspray to hold the shape in place.”

Look 3:

Low Ponytail by Maria Dowling

Maria Dowling is a Dubai-based hair colourist, hair stylist and the creative director of Maria Dowling. Over the past 12 years, her eponymous Dubai salon has grown into a luxury hair brand with a complete collection of hairstyling and haircare essentials. Dowling has gained recognition across the region for her natural, subtle approach to hair colouring.

“High and low ponytails with a slick side parting are big on the runway this season. This androgynous hair trend gives that masculine yet feminine look, which is totally wearable on the high street as well as on the catwalk. Check out Christopher Raeburn, DKNY [pictured] and Stella McCartney’s spring/summer 2014 shows.

“To get the low ponytailed look, start with hair that is 50 per cent dry and apply a mousse or volumising spray to the roots of the hair to help with volume, frizz control and hair flexibility.

“Using a comb, part the hair from the outer edge of your eyebrow to the crown of your head and smooth each side down. Pull the hair tight to the nape of the neck and secure with an elastic band – ideally one that matches your hair colour.

“Once you have the ponytail neat and in place, spray with a strong hairspray like Redken Forceful 23. For an unstructured, messy look, don’t pull the hair too tight into the elastic and, before adding the hairspray, lightly pull out pieces of hair while slightly backcombing the ponytail.”