Anyone who works in fashion will tell you that January is traditionally menswear month. It's also the time to start scanning the landscape for womenswear trends. Whatever surfaces first usually sets the tone for the season, and then along comes the spring/summer haute couture season to dot the i's and cross the t's, as it were.
Judging by fashion spreads in the February glossies, a trend that is up and running already is "the new pretty". It's possibly because the recession is not quite over and - guess what? - pretty sells.
The big surprise is that the designers who have pinpointed the new pretty and how you wear it aren't whom you might expect. The conceptualist Dutch design duo Viktor & Rolf, for instance.
The day before the designers' spring/summer ready-to-wear 2010 show in Paris last October, the American trade newspaper Women's Wear Daily published a picture of Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren wielding a chainsaw in front of a fairy-tale frock.
All was revealed at the finale of what could otherwise have been a pretty show of colour-blocked dresses, when an assortment of ball gowns consisting of layer upon layer of mille-feuille tulle, in shades of the palest marshmallow pink and rococo blue, suddenly appeared with skirts sliced diagonally, tunnelled into and trimmed, as if they were topiary hedges.
One of the "chainsaw" dresses (which were the result of painstaking tailoring, not a real chainsaw) appears on the cover of the February issue of Dazed & Confused magazine. It's a testament to the extreme interpretation of the new pretty, along with Alexander McQueen's disturbing reptilian prints and Christopher Kane's girlish gingham Sunday School frocks with their "training" bras placed strategically on the outside.
I prefer the work of a handful of labels being hailed as the "new romantics": Etro (whose flora and fauna digi-prints blew away all the competition at the last ready-to-wear shows), Rochas (designed by Marco Zanini, who uses an extremely original colour palette including saffron and aubergine but also weaves in ubiquitous pastels), Valentino (designed by Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli, whose short, sheer, ruffly dresses are giving Roland Mouret a run for his money) and Nina Ricci.
Thanks to this lot, a whistlestop tour of my favourite department store revealed that an area formerly devoted to stiff, dark grey and predominately black tailored winter pieces had vaporised into a froth of featherweight textiles in absurdly pretty pale shades and prints.
Who would have believed the new pretty would sound the death knell to Balmainia, bandage dresses and shoulder pads?
Although "pretty" is hardly how I would describe my personal style, I would rate feminine over femme fatale any day.
Interestingly, the battle lines seemed to be drawn in Paris during the spring/summer 2010 haute couture shows over exactly the same thing.
With John Galliano at the helm, Dior will always champion the femme fatale, but I doubt his latest equestrian-themed silhouette, which harked back to the bygone age when a perfect figure was achieved with a corset, will have the same impact his boudoir chic did last July.
There is so much more to being feminine than having a tiny waist, which is as much a cliché as trowelling on so much make-up that the effect resembles a man dressed as a woman. (Dior's show last week was a case in point.)
Paleness of colour, lightness of texture and freedom of movement are, on the other hand, very feminine. Karl Lagerfeld rolled out all three at his Chanel spring/summer haute couture show with the result being an almost other-worldly vision of prettiness and romance. How fitting for this Avatar-obsessed age.
And by moving away from his signature "greige" and turning towards pure light (moonlight in its various twinkling hues), Giorgio Armani put his finger on the new black: a delicious aurora borealis pastel palette.
If history repeats itself and Armani dresses half of Hollywood's leading ladies on Oscar night (March 7), as he did last year, it's going to be a very pretty frock fest indeed.
I predict the Italian maestro will find that he has a rival in the form of Peter Copping, whose debut at Nina Ricci has already been pounced on by celebrity stylists. (The lace dress worn by Carey Mulligan to the Golden Globes was one of his designs.)
And, for once, Chanel hasn't secured this season's It-bag. The honour goes to Fendi - Karl Lagerfeld's other label - for transparent perspex clutches that are stark, not pretty. They are the perfect accessory to offset everything else.
COMPANY PROFILE
Name: HyperSpace
Started: 2020
Founders: Alexander Heller, Rama Allen and Desi Gonzalez
Based: Dubai, UAE
Sector: Entertainment
Number of staff: 210
Investment raised: $75 million from investors including Galaxy Interactive, Riyadh Season, Sega Ventures and Apis Venture Partners
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THREE
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Cinco in numbers
Dh3.7 million
The estimated cost of Victoria Swarovski’s gem-encrusted Michael Cinco wedding gown
46
The number, in kilograms, that Swarovski’s wedding gown weighed.
1,000
The hours it took to create Cinco’s vermillion petal gown, as seen in his atelier [note, is the one he’s playing with in the corner of a room]
50
How many looks Cinco has created in a new collection to celebrate Ballet Philippines’ 50th birthday
3,000
The hours needed to create the butterfly gown worn by Aishwarya Rai to the 2018 Cannes Film Festival.
1.1 million
The number of followers that Michael Cinco’s Instagram account has garnered.
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COMPANY PROFILE
Founders: Alhaan Ahmed, Alyina Ahmed and Maximo Tettamanzi
Total funding: Self funded
How to protect yourself when air quality drops
Install an air filter in your home.
Close your windows and turn on the AC.
Shower or bath after being outside.
Wear a face mask.
Stay indoors when conditions are particularly poor.
If driving, turn your engine off when stationary.
What is graphene?
Graphene is extracted from graphite and is made up of pure carbon.
It is 200 times more resistant than steel and five times lighter than aluminum.
It conducts electricity better than any other material at room temperature.
It is thought that graphene could boost the useful life of batteries by 10 per cent.
Graphene can also detect cancer cells in the early stages of the disease.
The material was first discovered when Andre Geim and Konstantin Novoselov were 'playing' with graphite at the University of Manchester in 2004.
COMPANY PROFILE
Name: Almnssa
Started: August 2020
Founder: Areej Selmi
Based: Gaza
Sectors: Internet, e-commerce
Investments: Grants/private funding
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Director: Ismael Ferroukhi
Stars: Zakaria Inan, Sabrina Ouazani
3 stars
The specs
Engine: 5.2-litre V10
Power: 640hp at 8,000rpm
Torque: 565Nm at 6,500rpm
Transmission: 7-speed dual-clutch auto
Price: From Dh1 million
On sale: Q3 or Q4 2022
Jigra
Starring: Alia Bhatt, Vedang Raina, Manoj Pahwa, Harsh Singh
Moon Music
Artist: Coldplay
Label: Parlophone/Atlantic
Number of tracks: 10
Rating: 3/5
Thank You for Banking with Us
Director: Laila Abbas
Starring: Yasmine Al Massri, Clara Khoury, Kamel El Basha, Ashraf Barhoum
Rating: 4/5
THE SPECS
Engine: 1.5-litre turbocharged four-cylinder
Transmission: Constant Variable (CVT)
Power: 141bhp
Torque: 250Nm
Price: Dh64,500
On sale: Now
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