A dynamic new modernism is starting to take hold in Milan at the autumn ready-to-wear shows. Graphic silhouettes, cut-outs, chrome detailing and a mix of sleek leathers and fabrics with a hint of techno made bold statements at both Versace and Gucci.
Frida Gianini drew upon the golden eras of the 1970s and 1990s for her sleek, glamorous look for Gucci. A white dress with cut-out sides followed by a graphic white cashmere coat so straight that it could have been cut with a ruler, opened the show. The luxury of the label was in the sophisticated modern minimalism of the line and the pale blonde, camel, grey and white palette.
Body-conscious dresses had anatomical razor slashes that exposed brief flashes of skin, while the glamorous black dresses plunged at the back and were in-filled with snake-patterned lace. The camel-coloured jackets were based on the trench-coat construction with fur sleeves and the Gucci trousers slipped underneath were as skinny and hip as ever. The tone of the collection was quiet, with a hint of chrome for chokers and metal-plate belts, while ostrich handbags and flat clutches echoed the pale shades of the clothes.
Meanwhile, the tyranny of the platform is on the wane. Although the crocodile bootees and new pale suede thigh boots - a big story around the shows this season - featured shallow platforms, the patent T-bar shoes, while still high, looked far daintier without.
The first hints of this modernist mood emerged last winter in the Prada and Jil Sander experiments with graphic shapes and minimalist contouring details. The Gucci and Versace takes on modernism, however, are more luxurious and alluring, as you would expect from two houses whose success lies in their modern, sexy attitude.
Historically, the Versace aesthetic was anything but minimalist, but Donatella Versace is much more of a modernist and minimalist than her brother ever was. She has visited the style in previous collections and is renowned for her precision cutting.
Many of her body-conscious dresses this season feature graphic cut-out details and a distinctive use of folds and panels to create asymmetric proportions. Occasionally she used biker zips to bisect the body and colourful elastic inserts (filling the void of a cut out) to emphasise the graphic look of a suede car coat or a jacket. However, the vibrant colours and mirror-glossy leather indicate that Versace's vision of modernism is anything but low key.
COMPANY PROFILE
Founders: Alhaan Ahmed, Alyina Ahmed and Maximo Tettamanzi
Total funding: Self funded
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UAE v Gibraltar
What: International friendly
When: 7pm kick off
Where: Rugby Park, Dubai Sports City
Admission: Free
Online: The match will be broadcast live on Dubai Exiles’ Facebook page
UAE squad: Lucas Waddington (Dubai Exiles), Gio Fourie (Exiles), Craig Nutt (Abu Dhabi Harlequins), Phil Brady (Harlequins), Daniel Perry (Dubai Hurricanes), Esekaia Dranibota (Harlequins), Matt Mills (Exiles), Jaen Botes (Exiles), Kristian Stinson (Exiles), Murray Reason (Abu Dhabi Saracens), Dave Knight (Hurricanes), Ross Samson (Jebel Ali Dragons), DuRandt Gerber (Exiles), Saki Naisau (Dragons), Andrew Powell (Hurricanes), Emosi Vacanau (Harlequins), Niko Volavola (Dragons), Matt Richards (Dragons), Luke Stevenson (Harlequins), Josh Ives (Dubai Sports City Eagles), Sean Stevens (Saracens), Thinus Steyn (Exiles)
MATCH INFO
Fixture: Ukraine v Portugal, Monday, 10.45pm (UAE)
TV: BeIN Sports
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Babumoshai Bandookbaaz
Director: Kushan Nandy
Starring: Nawazuddin Siddiqui, Bidita Bag, Jatin Goswami
Three stars
COMPANY PROFILE
Name: Almnssa
Started: August 2020
Founder: Areej Selmi
Based: Gaza
Sectors: Internet, e-commerce
Investments: Grants/private funding
Joker: Folie a Deux
Starring: Joaquin Phoenix, Lady Gaga, Brendan Gleeson
Director: Todd Phillips
Rating: 2/5
How to protect yourself when air quality drops
Install an air filter in your home.
Close your windows and turn on the AC.
Shower or bath after being outside.
Wear a face mask.
Stay indoors when conditions are particularly poor.
If driving, turn your engine off when stationary.
McLaren GT specs
Engine: 4-litre twin-turbo V8
Transmission: seven-speed
Power: 620bhp
Torque: 630Nm
Price: Dh875,000
On sale: now
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The Buckingham Murders
Starring: Kareena Kapoor Khan, Ash Tandon, Prabhleen Sandhu
Director: Hansal Mehta
Rating: 4 / 5
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The specs
Engine: Long-range single or dual motor with 200kW or 400kW battery
Transmission: Single-speed automatic
Max touring range: 620km / 590km
Price: From Dh250,000 (estimated)
Tips to keep your car cool
- Place a sun reflector in your windshield when not driving
- Park in shaded or covered areas
- Add tint to windows
- Wrap your car to change the exterior colour
- Pick light interiors - choose colours such as beige and cream for seats and dashboard furniture
- Avoid leather interiors as these absorb more heat
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