Pulling off black on black is easy enough. Pulling it off masterfully, however, involves a little more thought. Stark minimalism, despite what the name may suggest, is fairly difficult to put together.
The problem is, the all-black aesthetic scares some of us off a little. Gothic, fierce, icy, moody, androgynous – all terms loaded with a fair amount of negativity when linked to our preconceived ideals of femininity. Which, I’d like to point out, is just as wrong as an assumption as thinking of black as a cop out – a cheat’s way to fade into the periphery.
Yes, throwing on an old black number over a pair of leggings is safe – lazy even – but that is not what this is about. Do this and you will simply look unfinished and underdressed.
The trick is all in the execution. Sartorially, black should appear effortless. What we are aiming for here is the clever layering of differing inky textures with interesting cuts that focus on clean lines and architectural pattern cutting. Think sharp, elegant and sophisticated, for they should each play a major role.
When it comes to overall presentation, simplicity is the only direction worth following. Strip the outfit back to the bare bones. One good-quality, well-tailored jacket or pair of trousers with couture detailing will carry the rest of the outfit through. At least one part of your outfit must be structured to hold everything else together. For everyday use, try pairing your key item with something particularly unstructured – perhaps a loose-textured piece, a casual T-shirt or an oversized piece of knitwear. Look to designers such as Alexander Wang, Givenchy, Rodarte and Céline, who perform the role to perfection.
There is a definite art to the styling. Be very careful about your fabric choices; anything synthetic won’t work. Look for deep languid silks, inky leathers, vintage lace and even a touch of patent or knitwear to offset the monotony. More so than ever, quality is imperative, so buy the very best you can afford. As with anything particularly simple within the world of design, the fit is to be absolutely perfect.
As I mentioned, the trick with minimalism is in the interpretation. Unlike many of the trends, there are no gimmicks here, just clean, simple, intelligent design. The same should go for accessories, which need to be equally carefully planned. Anything overly luxurious will only look fussy, so look for a slightly more androgynous shape for both shoes and bags.
Forget the whole retro Audrey Hepburn parody – a look that has been recreated so often it is now perceived as poor taste. So instead of reaching for the traditional Chanel ballet flats, try this season’s tougher ankle boot. The aim is to counteract the primness. Accessories should be kept to one bold piece, such as a cuff or standout pair of earrings. A hat or pair of leather gloves will also add another dimension.
Make-up should be also be kept to a minimum – classic and never overdone. A neat sweep of liquid black liner or a clean red lip will add just the right amount of definition and nothing more.
All things considered, it’s a refreshing change to be able to turn things down a notch, considering last season’s wash of tutti-frutti colour and girlie embellishment,
Sure, the cheerful bunch may not accept you with open arms, but what you will have is mystery, a somewhat more impenetrable take on femininity and a dose of poised self-possession and intrigue, which is always a good thing.
ktrotter@thenational.ae