Why the humble cardigan is fashion's unsung hero

From laid-back dressing to prim and pulled together or heritage infused, this low-key piece of clothing can do it all

Kurt Cobain of Nirvana during the taping of MTV Unplugged in New York City in1993. His cardigan later sold at auction for $334,000, despite being full of holes. Photo by Frank Micelotta.

Beloved by schoolteachers and film stars alike, the cardigan is an unsung fashion hero. Present in every wardrobe, if only for the laziest of days.

Here, in the warmer parts of the Middle East, the cardigan may not be a natural go to other than to fend off the air conditioning, yet with grandpacore – a nod to vintage fashion – a bona fide trend, now is the time to bring this forgotten champion into the sunlight.

Unusually, the cardigan trend has crossed the gender divide and is a key element in both men’s and women’s collections for autumn and winter. It is also an item that most people have owned at least once.

As an art student, my favourite cardigan – a heavy, itchy, cable-knit beast from the early 1970s – was one I borrowed from my then-boyfriend. In blue and white, it was far too big for me, while offering no protection against London weather. I loved it, even when it developed a wet dog smell after I was caught in a downpour. When we broke up, I dutifully returned the knit. I still mourn its loss.

For women, this season offers several options such as a patterned Fair Isle version by Sea. With a high neck and bishop sleeves, its merino wool makes a great pairing with jeans, while Blumarine has a looser fit in slubby camel that is strewn with flowers. Alaia carries a hip-length, roomy option in baby blue, while Thom Browne delivers a shrunken fit preppy version in mulberry red, with horizontal stripes on one arm.

For men, there is a wool and silk Gucci cardigan lightweight enough to be worn tucked into trousers, while the classic cut of the Ami de Coeur wool cardigan by Ami Paris shows off its heart-shaped detailing. Celine Homme offers a fuzzy, checked mohair piece in dark and olive greens, while Brunello Cucinelli has a thick, diamond-patterned offering in a shade of aubergine rich enough to warm the coldest soul.

With a long history, the cardigan is also a consistent thread through popular culture. Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel repurposed men’s cardigans in the 1920s, wearing hers long and belted. Marilyn Monroe famously wore her chunky version for her last-ever shoot in 1962. During her time at the White House, Michelle Obama was frequently spotted in J Crew cardigans while, more recently, models Bella Hadid and Kendall Jenner have been seen in their cardigans with jeans.

And it’s not only women who have fallen for the cardigan’s charms. Attributed to James Brudenell, 7th Earl of Cardigan, who is said to have invented the garment in 1854, it has been a men’s staple ever since. Actor Steve McQueen had a favourite cowl-necked cardigan in the 1960s that he teamed with shirts of chambray and denim. A chunky patterned version in cream and brown held a pivotal role in the 1970s television show Starsky & Hutch. David Beckham has a penchant for cream and off-white knits, opting for a double-breasted version in his Netflix documentary.

Brad Pitt has been spotted in a sizeable variety, including a slubby zip-through by Loewe, while Pedro Pascal is a cardigan man through and through, even donning a brown, open-knit version to the launch of the third season of The Mandalorian.

Daniel Craig went through a cardigan phase – matching pewter grey knits with shirt, tie and tailored trousers, while at the other end of the sartorial scale. Nirvana frontman, the late Kurt Cobain, arrived in a vintage mohair cardigan for the famous MTV Nirvana Unplugged concert in 1993. Despite having a button missing, burn holes and patches of faded colour, it was sold at auction in 2019 for $334,000.

Perhaps the ultimate cardigan appears in 1998 film The Big Lebowski, worn by The Dude – played by Jeff Bridges. Large and vintage, the dishevelled feel of the knit perfectly summed up The Dude’s louche appeal.

Long a stalwart of laid-back dressing, the cardigan today can fulfil any wardrobe need. Whether prim and pulled together (Chanel), heritage infused (Loro Piana) or something more bohemian (Chloe), the humble cardigan can do it all.