The past and future collide in luxury fashion's latest collections

Designers such as Pucci, Gucci and Louis Vuitton take us on metaphorical journeys through time

A look from the Louis Vuitton cruise 2023 fashion show. AFP

Scales resembling chain mail at the Louis Vuitton cruise 2023 show. AFP

Futuristic metallics at Louis Vuitton's cruise 2023 show. AFP

At Pucci, pedal pushers, headscarves and pyjama-style looks are decorated with 1980s-style circuit boards. Photo: Pucci

Pucci brings back the carefree 1960s in its new autumn 2022 collection. Photo: Pucci

Romance Was Born looks back to the 1980s for its resort 2023 collection. Photo: Romance Was Born

In Australia, Romance Was Born has teamed up with the artist Ken Done for an exhuberant 1980s mood. Photo: Romance Was Born

Covered in colourful lettering, the Romance Was Born collection is upbeat and joyful. Photo: Romance Was Born

A pieced, diamond-patterned faux fur coat, for Gucci resort 2023. Photo: Gucci

With a nod to the 1930s, a chevron cut dress from Gucci resort 2023. Photo: Gucci

A two-tone, cowl-neck look from Gucci resort 2023. Photo: Gucci

SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA - MAY 09: A model poses backstage ahead of the Romance Was Born show during Afterpay Australian Fashion Week 2022 Resort '23 Collections at Ken Done Gallery, The Rocks on May 09, 2022 in Sydney, Australia. (Photo by Brendon Thorne / Getty Images)

Another look from the Romance Was Born show during Afterpay Australian Fashion Week 2022 Resort '23 Collections at Ken Done Gallery. Getty Images

Living through a pandemic, it is only natural that we now crave a sense of fun, harking back to a time when we didn’t have to fear the close proximity of other people. And nowhere is this more clearly shown than in the fashion universe, that barometer of social mood.

While dealing with Covid-19 may have broken down the rigid structure of brands trotting out new collections four times a year — to be replaced instead with a more authentic freedom to show what they want, when they want — it has created an unintentional knock-on effect, with shows appearing ad hoc across the globe.

This month alone has had big hitters such as Chanel, Louis Vuitton and Gucci all roll out resort 2023 collections, as Pucci offers its autumn 2023 line.

While the calendar may be all over the place, there is a pattern emerging across the clothes.

Pucci

Despite its first foray into see-now-buy-now, Pucci has cleverly leaned into its heritage, reeling out a new take on the 1960s.

In a seasonless collection, that will be delivered in three "drops", designer Camille Miceli has embraced the colourful, vibrant past of the label, bringing its exuberant, swirling patterns to leggings, scarves-as-tops and curve-hugging mini dresses.

There were even pyjama-style top and bottoms patterned with the keyboards, now looking like futuristic circuit boards.

Romance Was Born

Australian Fashion Week, which ended earlier this month, also travelled through time. The latest looks from the brand Romance Was Born harked back to the 1980s through a colourful collaboration with the Australian artist Ken Done.

Known for his colourful depictions of Sydney life — from sailing boats on the water to its native flowers — all rendered in a carefree, almost childish hand, it turns out his work makes for charming clothing decoration, revealing a series of women's looks that bristled with energy.

Gucci

Gucci journeyed to a 13th-century castle in Puglia, Italy for its resort 2023 collection.

Against the building's imposing walls, creative director Alessandro Michele offered a collection that is sumptuous in its 1930s-era silhouettes, layered with faux furs and lavish strings of crystals.

A truly luscious affair, Michele called on the golden era of cinema with clingy bias-cut dresses, now made in leather, floor-length lamé capes, finished with Elizabethan-era starched ruffs around necks and wrists.

Best of all were the holographic, chevroned looks that started as a simple cowl-necked two-tone top and dress, and ended with a dress on which stripes spiralled away from a single point via sumptuous faux furs with diamond patterns.

Louis Vuitton

Over in California, Louis Vuitton began its 2023 resort show with clothes that also felt from another era. Heavy wool jacquard was cut into dresses padded out at the hip like something from the 1600s.

Artistic director Nicolas Ghesquiere likes to draw together different historical ages, and this show was no different in that regard. What was new was the thoughtful new atmosphere. The heavy cloth shifted to being draped across shoulders and wrapped loosely on hips like modern-day warrior women, while fabric "scales" echoed cathedral stained glass windows and chain mail armour.

Elsewhere, metallic looks and fabric headwraps brought to mind the futuristic world depicted in the film Dune.