New York Fashion Week: Jason Wu and Thom Browne reimagine wardrobe staples

Rodarte and Jonathan Simkhai also presented their spring/summer 2022 collections on day four

Jason Wu offered a blast of citrus for spring / summer 2022. Photo: Jason Wu

Fragile florals by Jason Wu at New York Fashion Week. Photo: Jason Wu

A beautiful hand-dyed gown from Jason Wu. Photo: Jason Wu

Hand-dyed fabric becomes chic citywear at Jason Wu. Photo: Jason Wu

Made from layers of tulle, this Thom Browne dress is more couture than ready-to-wear. Photo: Thom Browne

At Thom Browne, hand-made flowers became a dramatic cape. Photo: Thom Browne

The suit is reimagined by Thom Browne. Photo: Thom Browne

Thom Browne reworks the suit into endless new variations. Photo: Thom Browne

A complex caped dress looks simple at Jonathan Simkhai. Photo: Jonathan Simkhai

Known for slip dresses, Jonathan Simkhai has reworked the staple for spring / summer 2022. Photo: Jonathan Simkhai

Jonathan Simkhai offers cut-out dresses for spring / summer 2022. Photo: Jonathan Simkhai

Catching a slip dress around the waist to create a new shape. Photo: Jonathan Simkhai

Rodarte offers options for dressing up for spring / summer 2022. Photo: Rodarte

A slip dress is given an update at Rodarte. Photo: Rodarte

Shimmery beading at Rodarte for spring / summer 2022. Photo: Rodarte

To celebrate the world gradually reopening, Rodarte offers outfits for going out. Photo: Rodarte

The fashion set is almost ready to depart the Big Apple for London, with New York Fashion Week drawing to a close on Sunday.

However, before boarding passes are printed and bags packed, a number of the city's designers showcased their visions for spring/summer 2022.

Saturday welcomed another strong showing, with collections that overflowed with a sense of youth and fun.

Here are the runway highlights from day four.

Rodarte

Seemingly eager for life to have returned to near-normal by next summer, the design duo focused on looks meant to be seen out and about. Think bias-cut dresses with power shoulders or trimmed with lace, and dresses completely decked in strands of beading.

One section of Rodarte's show centred around the same high-necked dress recut with different sleeve shapes, from bell to split to caped, reminding the front row why this inventive name continues to be embraced by the style set.

Thom Browne

In case we needed a refresher of Browne’s skill at cutting and tailoring, this collection was so filled with technical mastery, it felt more haute couture than ready-to-wear.

The designer took apart suits and recut them into an impressive range of looks for both and women in this co-ed show. Strong tailoring arrived as dresses with bolero jackets, stretched into jacket dresses and with crisp capes, while silhouettes were column straight, both with and without build-up shoulders.

A softer feel arrived in the shape of goddess-inspired dresses, but ones that were carefully constructed from layers of tulle to create folds.

Jonathan Simkhai

Showing in New York on the formidable date of 9/11, Simkhai took this as a cue to look resolutely forward. His response was a collection that was simple, elegant and rather lovely.

Taking his staple slip dress, this was reinterpreted into many different looks, featuring everything from dramatic cut-out shapes around the midriff to knitted fringing that hung from the knees.

At one point, it was even caught around the torso to create a ruched finish.

Jason Wu

Another name to embrace bold colour, Wu delivered an array of dresses and gowns that were covered in blooms. Some flowers were literal while others relied on a technique of wrapping real flowers in cloth and letting the petals stain the fabric.

Faded, messy and beautifully original, Wu used this theme to glorious effect on fancy gowns and city shorts.