In the new topsy-turvy world of fashion, one side effect of the pandemic is that the once rigid diary of runway shows has seen the rule book thrown out of the window, freeing designers to show what they want, when they want. Marc Jacobs has just returned to the fashion runway for the first time in a year, showing his autumn/winter 2021 collection to a live audience in New York. Totally disjointed from the rest of the fashion schedule – as everyone else is busy unveiling menswear spring/summer 2022 – Jacobs gave us the wintery clothes he wanted us to see. No doubt inspired by the almost primeval need to cocoon thanks to the pandemic, Jacobs presented not only clothes to wrap up in, but also to have fun with, bringing some much needed joy back into the world. With supersized logos running down the arms and legs of models, Jacobs offered pieces that were either skintight or hugely oversized. Trousers came as skinny leggings ending in platform shoes, or as flares wide enough to swallow feet. Tops and jackets stopped short at the waist, or stretched past hips, while sleeves continued to a mid-point between wrist and floor. Dresses and coats were fit to burst, padded with cosy down, and there were clashing patterns of pink and mulberry, while fluffy blanket stoles finished the looks, creating outlandish proportions reminiscent of the children's character Barbapapa. Meanwhile, at Moschino, designer Jeremy Scott was equally playful for spring/summer 2022, delivering a co-ed collection built around the Americana cartoons and all-day-diner food. Men came dressed in all manners of lime and pink, with cartoon stripped suits, shirts and coats, broken up with looks of head-to-toe sequins. The women were dressed in themes of an Americana diner – meaning caped dresses that looked like hot dogs, and hats that resembled cakes. For all his craziness, however, Scott’s pieces were well cut, so that the 1980s frilled, sparkly, lilac dress, worn by model Karen Elson would fit any summer party – ice cream sundae hat optional. Another dress was cut to hug curves, as well as look like melted ice cream cones, while those with more savoury tastes can appreciate the dress and skirt outfit that looked like burgers, or the buttons that are fried eggs, sunny side up. Calorie-filled madness aside, the best moments in any Scott collection is always the details, seen here as fabulous two-toned wingtip shoes for men, in raspberry, blue and white, with a clutch that is modelled after a soft drink cup with straw, or a tiny bag that is topped with chocolate sauce.
