The art of borrowing from the male wardrobe isn’t exactly a new thing. Think of the Patti Smiths and Charlotte Gainsbourgs of the world: both women choose to push the often-stifling boundaries that womenswear (and social stereotyping) dictate.
A terrifying notion for some less brave perhaps, which is silly really, for it’s simply stepping outside of preconceived gender boxes and playing with the feminine silhouette. Dabbling in menswear should not mean sacrificing femininity.
Rarely does any woman really want to dress head to toe like a man – there’s a reason that we have two very distinctive collections per season, in that we have entirely differing body shapes. The rules are simple: stick to understated simplicity and the avant garde will form its own direction.
Japanese designers such as Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons do it best with the utilitarian look, as do Prada, Alexander Wang and Helmut Lang. Think brogues, wide-legged trousers, crisp white shirts and le smoking jacket.
Most importantly, it’s the details that need to be scrupulously taken care of. For here we have one of those sneaky little sub-trends on our hands; the type that pretends to be effortless, comfortable and easy, when really it involves a fair amount of deliberation.
This is a trend based on borrowing elements rather than imitation. Hijack your husband’s jacket and you will only look like a linebacker. Oversized and ill-fitting are both very different things.
Women, no matter what body shape, tend to have a much smaller back and shoulders, so make sure that you’re well-fitted here. Sleeves can be rolled and length doesn’t matter, but shoulders that hit mid-arm will throw the whole silhouette off-kilter. It sounds obvious, but always have a specialist fit you. Your jacket’s shoulder pads are supposed to square with your shoulders. More simply, clever tailoring will hide a multitude of sins, making weak shoulders appear angular or concealing a distinct lack of waist.
Investing in a full suit should be on everybody’s list. Forget notions of a 1980s power suit or the cheap nylon banking suits of the 1990s and think more slim-fit tuxedo.
The choice of trouser is a personal one, which will need to work with your body type. If you are long-legged and lean (lucky you), you can go for a high-waisted wide leg; if you are more Coke bottle than straw, try a pair of slender cigarette trousers.
Remember, the suit is a base on which to build. When it comes to working each element as a separate, remember that contrast is important. What is small on top should be large on bottom and vice versa. Cigarette trousers should be paired with a loose top, and wide-leg trousers with something form-fitting. Colour-wise, a dark navy or steel grey will work just as well as an inky black. For those who want to have some fun with the trend, a fine print will add a little joie de vivre to an austere silhouette.
Aside from the majority of men, who wouldn’t notice if you stepped out in a silver boiler suit, I have the creeping feeling that all of this androgynous stuff will throw gents into two very differing camps – those who are simply flummoxed by it (why would you want to look like a man?) and those who feel a little bit miffed that we wear it better. We couldn’t care less. Contrary to what pop culture likes to tell us, most of us dress for ourselves, rather than to entice or outshine.
So there we have it, ladies: this is what we call modern dressing. And I must say, it suits us well.
ktrotter@thenational.ae