At a small kiosk on the ground level of Abu Dhabi’s World Trade Center Mall, tourists and residents alike are lining up for a taste of the coolest ice cream in town. Arabica Booza only sells one thing: traditional Syrian ice cream, or booza. The shop was opened in February by Sami Fouz, a Syrian businessman who has been living in Abu Dhabi since 2003. “I wanted to bring this traditional Syrian taste here,” says Fouz, who is an accountant. “Syrian people, Lebanese people, even people from the Gulf area, they all know this, but it’s hard to find. I just wanted to bring booza, my tradition here. We don’t want to forget our traditions.”
Though Syrian booza typically comes in just one flavour, cream, Arabica Booza serves up eight flavours, all made with natural ingredients. Cream, made with vanilla, is the best-seller at the shop and comes smothered in chopped pistachios, just like you’d find in Syria. But you can also get chocolate, strawberry, lemon, raspberry, rose, blueberry and honey. There’s a diet booza, too, made with saccharine instead of sugar.
What distinguishes booza from ice creams around the world is the use of mastic, also known as Arabic gum. The gum gives the booza a sticky texture and helps keep it ice cold; booza doesn’t melt nearly as quickly as regular ice cream. Another defining feature of booza is the show you get when you order. At Arabica Booza, the cream is pounded in a big metal mortar with a wooden pestle wielded by a man who once used to sell booza in Syria. The beat of the drumming, which softens the ice cream, elicits curiosity from passers-by.
“The hammer is heavy,” says Fouz. “It’s difficult. It’s not just a show – he’s also working.”
Booza is as beloved to Syrians as gelato is to Italians. It’s a source of pride and cultural identity for Fouz. For him and many others, booza evokes fond memories of childhood days.
“This is a tradition in my family,” says Fouz. “My great, great-grandfather started this. He owned an ice cream shop in Syria. I ate this every day.”
• Arabica Booza is on the ground floor at World Trade Center Mall. A small cup or homemade cone is Dh15; the large costs Dh25. For a booza booth at a private gathering or event, call 055 155 6295
sjohnson@thenational.ae