Supermarket spice aisles varied enough to satisfy most



If variety is the spice of life, then that might explain why novelty and hot sauce are two of my favourite things. Botanical in origin and byzantine in range, spice is a reference to relish, pep and joie de vivre. An ordinary spice rack can contain magical spices, medicinal ones, and among them, the everyday garden variety kitchen spices that can be sourced from seed (fennel), bark (cinnamon), flower bud (clove), resin (asafoetida), root (turmeric), rhizome (ginger), aril (mace) or stigma (saffron).

In what is now modern-day Syria, archaeological digs have unearthed an incinerated kitchen dated thousands of years ago with a single clove burnt into the floor. It was around 300 years earlier that cinnamon and pepper launched the spice trade throughout the Middle East, though the earliest evidence of the use of spice by humans is dated many millennia before that. Arab traders, predominantly of Omani and Yemeni descent, were the alpha males of the Indian Ocean, commanding maritime routes from regions like the clandestine archipelagos in Indonesia known as the Spice Islands.

In the recently released Sex and The City 2, a scene so risible it borders on unbearable, is set in a fictional Abu Dhabi souq. The film's sprightly protagonist, Carrie, traipses whimsically through a bacchanalian bazaar where scales and platters sigh beneath pyramids of jewel-toned spices. The truth, however, isn't what sells a Disney story, of course; you can yell 'open sesame!' until the camels come home, but there are no Moroccan-style markets here and no secret portals to them, even with VIP connections.

Fortunately, the spice aisles at our local hypermarket are more than adequate. Just when I was getting ready to scream blue murder at the film's merciless bludgeoning of cultural clichés (and considering a quick theatre exit by way of my handy magic carpet), the dust and frankincense in Carrie's Arabian wonderland part, revealing a blue-eyed beacon in the exotic mists of ardour; her former sweetheart from New York City, standing a mere few metres away from her.

This shouldn't have come as a surprise; it has long been perpetuated through time and text that the heady, expensive aromas of spice are a classic aphrodisiac - so it follows that a spice market would make an inspiring environment for a romantic encounter. Courtship may be ancient, but the spice trade didn't start yesterday either. The Old Testament's Song of Solomon contains romantic verses that wax on about the sensory excitement offered by the perfumes of cinnamon and saffron.

And the 15th century Perfumed Garden written by Muhammad ibn Muhammad al-Nafzawi glorified nutmeg, cloves, cardamon and ginger. "Extra spicy!" exclaims the proprietor when I phone in my order at the Indian restaurant up the street. He has a special fondness for me, impressed by my tolerance for hot foods - and blithely convinced, I think, that it's the result of an undiscovered Kashmiri in my biological woodpile.

He gives me a cup of masala chai when I show up a few minutes early for my dinner, and it's great; more concentrated, robust and aromatic than the ubiquitous spiced "chai tea lattes" in western-style coffee houses, loosely based on the formula for masala chai, but now mass-produced and over-sweetened and sold in cartons in supermarkets. In her book Cardamom and Lime: Recipes from the Arabian Gulf, Sarah Al-Hamad writes that the UAE's national dish, machbous, is "a celebration of robust perfumes and ingredients".

Traditional Gulf desserts tend to be simple and very sweet. What they lack in nuance they make up for with heavy spicing, which tastes clean and pure at best, but can err on the side of being overwhelmingly perfumed and one-dimensional. The Arabic word for spices, "baharat" is also the word for a spice mixture used throughout the Arab world and beyond and constituents of which the vary from one place to the next.

In the Gulf, it is often called kebsa and contains loomi (dried black lime), which gives local dishes a distinctive tang. The North African spice blend ras el hanout ("top of the shop" in Arabic) refers to another pantry staple with no definitive recipe. It is simply a mixture of the best spices a spice merchant has to offer. Cardamom, with its unmistakable resiny taste, is a perpetual undercurrent in Gulf food and drink, especially in muhalabiya, a milky rice pudding infused with green cardamom pods, and crumbly khabees, made with toasted flour and ground cardamom.

I like cardamom, but I think of it as the spice equivalent of green bell peppers, which have a tendency to bully competing flavours into a dark corner, so it helps to have a light hand. Mughli (which means boiled) is a cardamom-free spiced pudding made with rice flour, flecked with cinnamon and caraway, and showered with chopped raw nuts and coconut. It is usually served to guests by the family of a newborn. It is mild, cooling and gel-like, and after my youngest sister was born, I ate it by the quart to quell my raging metabolism.

Indeed, many of the Arab world's most iconic dishes are highly spiced. Musakhan is an addictive savoury Palestinian dish of roasted chicken with sumac, allspice, cinnamon and nutmeg under a mantle of bread and melting, tender onions. Bisteeya is a Moroccan sweet and savory pigeon pie (often made with chicken) in which flaky crust meets powdered sugar, enveloping a filling of shredded cinnamon-spiced meat and ground almonds.

My favourite dessert cookbook, The Last Course: The Desserts of Gramercy Tavern, has a chapter devoted to spices. In its introduction, writer and pâtissier Claudia Fleming asks: "Where would we be without spices? Everything would be plain vanilla." I know it's just a figure of speech, but vanilla remains my ivory tower amid a hustle of potpourri. Unfortunately, after saffron, vanilla is the world's most expensive spice, due mostly to the challenges of cultivating and harvesting the seedpods.

So my ultimate fantasy of installing an automatic soft-serve machine at home that dispenses satiny vanilla ice cream flush with vanilla seeds will have to wait until I'm flush, too.

The Africa Institute 101

Housed on the same site as the original Africa Hall, which first hosted an Arab-African Symposium in 1976, the newly renovated building will be home to a think tank and postgraduate studies hub (it will offer master’s and PhD programmes). The centre will focus on both the historical and contemporary links between Africa and the Gulf, and will serve as a meeting place for conferences, symposia, lectures, film screenings, plays, musical performances and more. In fact, today it is hosting a symposium – 5-plus-1: Rethinking Abstraction that will look at the six decades of Frank Bowling’s career, as well as those of his contemporaries that invested social, cultural and personal meaning into abstraction. 

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COMPANY PROFILE
Name: Almnssa
Started: August 2020
Founder: Areej Selmi
Based: Gaza
Sectors: Internet, e-commerce
Investments: Grants/private funding
Five healthy carbs and how to eat them

Brown rice: consume an amount that fits in the palm of your hand

Non-starchy vegetables, such as broccoli: consume raw or at low temperatures, and don’t reheat  

Oatmeal: look out for pure whole oat grains or kernels, which are locally grown and packaged; avoid those that have travelled from afar

Fruit: a medium bowl a day and no more, and never fruit juices

Lentils and lentil pasta: soak these well and cook them at a low temperature; refrain from eating highly processed pasta variants

Courtesy Roma Megchiani, functional nutritionist at Dubai’s 77 Veggie Boutique

Bob Honey Who Just Do Stuff
By Sean Penn
Simon & Schuster

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Results

2.30pm Maiden (PA) Dh40,000 1,200m

Winner Lamia, Tadhg O’Shea, Ernst Oertel.

3pm Handicap (PA) Dh40,000 1,000m

Winner Jap Al Afreet, Elione Chaves, Irfan Ellahi.

3.30pm Handicap (PA) Dh40,000 1,700m

Winner MH Tawag, Bernardo Pinheiro, Elise Jeanne.

4pm Handicap (TB) Dh40,000 2,000m

Winner Skygazer, Sandro Paiva, Ali Rashid Al Raihe.

4.30pm The Ruler of Sharjah Cup Prestige (PA) Dh250,000 1,700m

Winner AF Kal Noor, Tadhg O’Shea, Ernst Oertel.

5pm Sharjah Marathon (PA) Dh70,000 2,700m

Winner RB Grynade, Bernardo Pinheiro, Eric Lemartinel.

APPLE IPAD MINI (A17 PRO)

Display: 21cm Liquid Retina Display, 2266 x 1488, 326ppi, 500 nits

Chip: Apple A17 Pro, 6-core CPU, 5-core GPU, 16-core Neural Engine

Storage: 128/256/512GB

Main camera: 12MP wide, f/1.8, digital zoom up to 5x, Smart HDR 4

Front camera: 12MP ultra-wide, f/2.4, Smart HDR 4, full-HD @ 25/30/60fps

Biometrics: Touch ID, Face ID

Colours: Blue, purple, space grey, starlight

In the box: iPad mini, USB-C cable, 20W USB-C power adapter

Price: From Dh2,099

Find the right policy for you

Don’t wait until the week you fly to sign up for insurance – get it when you book your trip. Insurance covers you for cancellation and anything else that can go wrong before you leave.

Some insurers, such as World Nomads, allow you to book once you are travelling – but, as Mr Mohammed found out, pre-existing medical conditions are not covered.

Check your credit card before booking insurance to see if you have any travel insurance as a benefit – most UAE banks, such as Emirates NBD, First Abu Dhabi Bank and Abu Dhabi Islamic Bank, have cards that throw in insurance as part of their package. But read the fine print – they may only cover emergencies while you’re travelling, not cancellation before a trip.

Pre-existing medical conditions such as a heart condition, diabetes, epilepsy and even asthma may not be included as standard. Again, check the terms, exclusions and limitations of any insurance carefully.

If you want trip cancellation or curtailment, baggage loss or delay covered, you may need a higher-grade plan, says Ambareen Musa of Souqalmal.com. Decide how much coverage you need for emergency medical expenses or personal liability. Premium insurance packages give up to $1 million (Dh3.7m) in each category, Ms Musa adds.

Don’t wait for days to call your insurer if you need to make a claim. You may be required to notify them within 72 hours. Gather together all receipts, emails and reports to prove that you paid for something, that you didn’t use it and that you did not get reimbursed.

Finally, consider optional extras you may need, says Sarah Pickford of Travel Counsellors, such as a winter sports holiday. Also ensure all individuals can travel independently on that cover, she adds. And remember: “Cheap isn’t necessarily best.”

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PREMIER LEAGUE STATS

Romelu Lukaku's goalscoring statistics in the Premier League 
Season/club/appearances (substitute)/goals

2011/12 Chelsea: 8(7) - 0
2012/13 West Brom (loan): 35(15) - 17
2013/14 Chelsea: 2(2) - 0
2013/14 Everton (loan): 31(2) - 15
2014/15 Everton: 36(4) - 10
2015/16 Everton: 37(1) - 18
2016/17 Everton: 37(1) - 25  

Seemar’s top six for the Dubai World Cup Carnival:

1. Reynaldothewizard
2. North America
3. Raven’s Corner
4. Hawkesbury
5. New Maharajah
6. Secret Ambition

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Jigra
Director: Vasan Bala
Starring: Alia Bhatt, Vedang Raina, Manoj Pahwa, Harsh Singh
Rated: 3.5/5

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