Supermarket spice aisles varied enough to satisfy most



If variety is the spice of life, then that might explain why novelty and hot sauce are two of my favourite things. Botanical in origin and byzantine in range, spice is a reference to relish, pep and joie de vivre. An ordinary spice rack can contain magical spices, medicinal ones, and among them, the everyday garden variety kitchen spices that can be sourced from seed (fennel), bark (cinnamon), flower bud (clove), resin (asafoetida), root (turmeric), rhizome (ginger), aril (mace) or stigma (saffron).

In what is now modern-day Syria, archaeological digs have unearthed an incinerated kitchen dated thousands of years ago with a single clove burnt into the floor. It was around 300 years earlier that cinnamon and pepper launched the spice trade throughout the Middle East, though the earliest evidence of the use of spice by humans is dated many millennia before that. Arab traders, predominantly of Omani and Yemeni descent, were the alpha males of the Indian Ocean, commanding maritime routes from regions like the clandestine archipelagos in Indonesia known as the Spice Islands.

In the recently released Sex and The City 2, a scene so risible it borders on unbearable, is set in a fictional Abu Dhabi souq. The film's sprightly protagonist, Carrie, traipses whimsically through a bacchanalian bazaar where scales and platters sigh beneath pyramids of jewel-toned spices. The truth, however, isn't what sells a Disney story, of course; you can yell 'open sesame!' until the camels come home, but there are no Moroccan-style markets here and no secret portals to them, even with VIP connections.

Fortunately, the spice aisles at our local hypermarket are more than adequate. Just when I was getting ready to scream blue murder at the film's merciless bludgeoning of cultural clichés (and considering a quick theatre exit by way of my handy magic carpet), the dust and frankincense in Carrie's Arabian wonderland part, revealing a blue-eyed beacon in the exotic mists of ardour; her former sweetheart from New York City, standing a mere few metres away from her.

This shouldn't have come as a surprise; it has long been perpetuated through time and text that the heady, expensive aromas of spice are a classic aphrodisiac - so it follows that a spice market would make an inspiring environment for a romantic encounter. Courtship may be ancient, but the spice trade didn't start yesterday either. The Old Testament's Song of Solomon contains romantic verses that wax on about the sensory excitement offered by the perfumes of cinnamon and saffron.

And the 15th century Perfumed Garden written by Muhammad ibn Muhammad al-Nafzawi glorified nutmeg, cloves, cardamon and ginger. "Extra spicy!" exclaims the proprietor when I phone in my order at the Indian restaurant up the street. He has a special fondness for me, impressed by my tolerance for hot foods - and blithely convinced, I think, that it's the result of an undiscovered Kashmiri in my biological woodpile.

He gives me a cup of masala chai when I show up a few minutes early for my dinner, and it's great; more concentrated, robust and aromatic than the ubiquitous spiced "chai tea lattes" in western-style coffee houses, loosely based on the formula for masala chai, but now mass-produced and over-sweetened and sold in cartons in supermarkets. In her book Cardamom and Lime: Recipes from the Arabian Gulf, Sarah Al-Hamad writes that the UAE's national dish, machbous, is "a celebration of robust perfumes and ingredients".

Traditional Gulf desserts tend to be simple and very sweet. What they lack in nuance they make up for with heavy spicing, which tastes clean and pure at best, but can err on the side of being overwhelmingly perfumed and one-dimensional. The Arabic word for spices, "baharat" is also the word for a spice mixture used throughout the Arab world and beyond and constituents of which the vary from one place to the next.

In the Gulf, it is often called kebsa and contains loomi (dried black lime), which gives local dishes a distinctive tang. The North African spice blend ras el hanout ("top of the shop" in Arabic) refers to another pantry staple with no definitive recipe. It is simply a mixture of the best spices a spice merchant has to offer. Cardamom, with its unmistakable resiny taste, is a perpetual undercurrent in Gulf food and drink, especially in muhalabiya, a milky rice pudding infused with green cardamom pods, and crumbly khabees, made with toasted flour and ground cardamom.

I like cardamom, but I think of it as the spice equivalent of green bell peppers, which have a tendency to bully competing flavours into a dark corner, so it helps to have a light hand. Mughli (which means boiled) is a cardamom-free spiced pudding made with rice flour, flecked with cinnamon and caraway, and showered with chopped raw nuts and coconut. It is usually served to guests by the family of a newborn. It is mild, cooling and gel-like, and after my youngest sister was born, I ate it by the quart to quell my raging metabolism.

Indeed, many of the Arab world's most iconic dishes are highly spiced. Musakhan is an addictive savoury Palestinian dish of roasted chicken with sumac, allspice, cinnamon and nutmeg under a mantle of bread and melting, tender onions. Bisteeya is a Moroccan sweet and savory pigeon pie (often made with chicken) in which flaky crust meets powdered sugar, enveloping a filling of shredded cinnamon-spiced meat and ground almonds.

My favourite dessert cookbook, The Last Course: The Desserts of Gramercy Tavern, has a chapter devoted to spices. In its introduction, writer and pâtissier Claudia Fleming asks: "Where would we be without spices? Everything would be plain vanilla." I know it's just a figure of speech, but vanilla remains my ivory tower amid a hustle of potpourri. Unfortunately, after saffron, vanilla is the world's most expensive spice, due mostly to the challenges of cultivating and harvesting the seedpods.

So my ultimate fantasy of installing an automatic soft-serve machine at home that dispenses satiny vanilla ice cream flush with vanilla seeds will have to wait until I'm flush, too.

Joker: Folie a Deux

Starring: Joaquin Phoenix, Lady Gaga, Brendan Gleeson

Director: Todd Phillips 

Rating: 2/5

Moon Music

Artist: Coldplay

Label: Parlophone/Atlantic

Number of tracks: 10

Rating: 3/5

Quick pearls of wisdom

Focus on gratitude: And do so deeply, he says. “Think of one to three things a day that you’re grateful for. It needs to be specific, too, don’t just say ‘air.’ Really think about it. If you’re grateful for, say, what your parents have done for you, that will motivate you to do more for the world.”

Know how to fight: Shetty married his wife, Radhi, three years ago (he met her in a meditation class before he went off and became a monk). He says they’ve had to learn to respect each other’s “fighting styles” – he’s a talk it-out-immediately person, while she needs space to think. “When you’re having an argument, remember, it’s not you against each other. It’s both of you against the problem. When you win, they lose. If you’re on a team you have to win together.” 

The specs

Engine: 2.0-litre 4-cyl turbo

Power: 247hp at 6,500rpm

Torque: 370Nm from 1,500-3,500rpm

Transmission: 10-speed auto

Fuel consumption: 7.8L/100km

Price: from Dh94,900

On sale: now

The cost of Covid testing around the world

Egypt

Dh514 for citizens; Dh865 for tourists

Information can be found through VFS Global.

Jordan

Dh212

Centres include the Speciality Hospital, which now offers drive-through testing.

Cambodia

Dh478

Travel tests are managed by the Ministry of Health and National Institute of Public Health.

Zanzibar

AED 295

Zanzibar Public Health Emergency Operations Centre, located within the Lumumba Secondary School compound.

Abu Dhabi

Dh85

Abu Dhabi’s Seha has test centres throughout the UAE.

UK

From Dh400

Heathrow Airport now offers drive through and clinic-based testing, starting from Dh400 and up to Dh500 for the PCR test.

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if you go

The flights

Air France offer flights from Dubai and Abu Dhabi to Cayenne, connecting in Paris from Dh7,300.

The tour

Cox & Kings (coxandkings.com) has a 14-night Hidden Guianas tour of Guyana, Suriname and French Guiana. It includes accommodation, domestic flights, transfers, a local tour manager and guided sightseeing. Contact for price.

if you go
Milestones on the road to union

1970

October 26: Bahrain withdraws from a proposal to create a federation of nine with the seven Trucial States and Qatar. 

December: Ahmed Al Suwaidi visits New York to discuss potential UN membership.

1971

March 1:  Alex Douglas Hume, Conservative foreign secretary confirms that Britain will leave the Gulf and “strongly supports” the creation of a Union of Arab Emirates.

July 12: Historic meeting at which Sheikh Zayed and Sheikh Rashid make a binding agreement to create what will become the UAE.

July 18: It is announced that the UAE will be formed from six emirates, with a proposed constitution signed. RAK is not yet part of the agreement.

August 6:  The fifth anniversary of Sheikh Zayed becoming Ruler of Abu Dhabi, with official celebrations deferred until later in the year.

August 15: Bahrain becomes independent.

September 3: Qatar becomes independent.

November 23-25: Meeting with Sheikh Zayed and Sheikh Rashid and senior British officials to fix December 2 as date of creation of the UAE.

November 29:  At 5.30pm Iranian forces seize the Greater and Lesser Tunbs by force.

November 30: Despite  a power sharing agreement, Tehran takes full control of Abu Musa. 

November 31: UK officials visit all six participating Emirates to formally end the Trucial States treaties

December 2: 11am, Dubai. New Supreme Council formally elects Sheikh Zayed as President. Treaty of Friendship signed with the UK. 11.30am. Flag raising ceremony at Union House and Al Manhal Palace in Abu Dhabi witnessed by Sheikh Khalifa, then Crown Prince of Abu Dhabi.

December 6: Arab League formally admits the UAE. The first British Ambassador presents his credentials to Sheikh Zayed.

December 9: UAE joins the United Nations.

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COMPANY PROFILE
Name: Almnssa
Started: August 2020
Founder: Areej Selmi
Based: Gaza
Sectors: Internet, e-commerce
Investments: Grants/private funding
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Thank You for Banking with Us

Director: Laila Abbas

Starring: Yasmine Al Massri, Clara Khoury, Kamel El Basha, Ashraf Barhoum

Rating: 4/5

Credits

Produced by: Colour Yellow Productions and Eros Now
Director: Mudassar Aziz
Cast: Sonakshi Sinha, Jimmy Sheirgill, Jassi Gill, Piyush Mishra, Diana Penty, Aparshakti Khurrana
Star rating: 2.5/5

The biog

Name: James Mullan

Nationality: Irish

Family: Wife, Pom; and daughters Kate, 18, and Ciara, 13, who attend Jumeirah English Speaking School (JESS)

Favourite book or author: “That’s a really difficult question. I’m a big fan of Donna Tartt, The Secret History. I’d recommend that, go and have a read of that.”

Dream: “It would be to continue to have fun and to work with really interesting people, which I have been very fortunate to do for a lot of my life. I just enjoy working with very smart, fun people.”

THE LOWDOWN

Photograph

Rating: 4/5

Produced by: Poetic License Motion Pictures; RSVP Movies

Director: Ritesh Batra

Cast: Nawazuddin Siddiqui, Sanya Malhotra, Farrukh Jaffar, Deepak Chauhan, Vijay Raaz

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