Signature Tasting Menu at: Bombay Brasserie, Taj Dubai

Starter course of the Signature Tasting Menu at Bombay Brasserie, Taj Dubai. Rob Garratt

The location

Bombay Brasserie is a fine dining Indian brand which offers the odd distinction of hosting precisely zero venues in India itself. Born in London’s affluent Kensington district back in 1982, after expanding to Cape Town, last year the concept launched in Business Bay’s towering Taj Dubai. It’s a fine spot on the edges of the emirate’s most affluent after hours hub, but there’s notable competition not far away.

The atmosphere

The most defining feature of the restaurant’s main dining space is the huge, on-trend open kitchen, and the ongoing hum of activity lends a distinctly casual vibe to proceedings. This helps overcome the stuffiness of the decor, which is defined by big, coloured armchairs, deep green furnishings and jarringly bright cushions and wall murals. Staff are friendly and efficient. Ask for a seat against the north-eastern window, which offers great, currently unobstructed views of the Burj Khalifa, from a refreshing fourth floor vantage.

The food

Recently revamped to reflect changes in the larger à la carte selection, Bombay Brasserie’s Signature Tasting Menu offers bite-sized portions of the restaurant’s proudest creations, without having to plough through the typical sharing-sized portions.

Things began with a selection of starters and tandoor which can best be described as a mixed bag. The roti pe boti — lamb and caramelised onion served on a wheat flatbread — was a delicious high-end spin on the humble kebab, while the chicken tikka, served green and seasoned with basil, was succulent and moreish. However the tawa scallops felt perhaps a tad underdone, while the lamb patty served on kumquat (gilawati kebab) had a squidgy, insubstantial texture. Best of all was the fahi bhalla, a street food classic of lentil dumplings, served tangy and crunchy with dry mango and melon seeds. This dish also appeared on my companion’s vegetarian selection, alongside highlights including bhatti ki subzi (spice rubbed grilled asparagus and avocado) and the excellent malai broccoli.

For the main, I was served two heavy meat curries — “grandma’s chicken curry”, in a light, tomato-based sauce, and a heavy, Mughal-style lamb dish — which both suffered from slightly tough meat — as well as a rich, classic earthy dal makhani.

I couldn’t repress a tinge of jealousy glimpsing the larger selection offered to my vegetarian companion, whose spread included the delicious, nutty malai kofta, tender lasooni palak paneer (spinach with cottage cheese) and baingan bharta, a smoked eggplant crush perhaps too smoky for our tastes.

Things closed with a sparkling trio of desserts, chenna payesh (sweet milk infused with saffron), bread and dig pudding (anjeer ka shahi tukra) and the omnipresent, thali-tastic gulab jamun (that’s a dumpling in syrup).

Who’s it best for?

Big on the classics but offering few surprises, the tasting menu would be best pitched at a newcomer to Indian cuisine eager to expand their palate. Also, it’s worth noting the strong vegetarian option may be ideal for a split veggie/carnivore couple, who might ordinarily find ordering sharing dishes a diplomatic disaster.

The verdict

In Dubai’s ultra-competitive climate of high-end Indian dining, Bombay Brasserie has its work cut out, but this new tasting menu offers fresh incentive to stop by.

The National was a guest of the venue.

• BB Experience menu from Dh275 per head. Bombay Brasserie is open daily from 6pm at the Taj Dubai, Business Bay, taj.tajhotels.com (04 438 3222).