A fun atmosphere and generous, authentic dishes make Loca worthy of a return visit, writes Emily Shardlow A pleasant cacophony greeted us as we entered Loca, the Mexican restaurant at Dubai Marine Beach Resort. This was the happy (and disturbingly unusual) sound of a packed restaurant, in this case a room full of customers chatting over guacamole and tortilla chips.
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The decor - walls decorated with wooden Jenga-style blocks - and unfussy table settings contribute to the unpretentious, relaxed vibe here, while the menu offers the usual Mexican favourites - burritos, tacos, enchiladas and tamales - served in selection of guises.
My starter of jalepenos locas was a good rendition of a simple dish; fat, juicy peppers filled with a mild, creamy and pleasantly stringy Oaxaca cheese. The crushed tortilla coating had a hint of grease to it, but not to the extent that it was off-putting. My friend opted for sopa de tortilla, a homely chicken broth boasting nuggets of avocado, tomato, red onion and potato, finished with a sprinkling of coriander. He professed it to be well-seasoned, with a hint of chilli that added a pleasant warmth, rather than a fiery, over-powering heat.
The portions here are generous, as I learnt when my tostada salad arrived; a towering taco basket overflowing with ingredients. Thin slices of spiced chicken were perched on a mountain of shredded iceberg, piles of guacamole, sour cream and refried beans jostled for space and a smattering of grated cheese finished things off. Thankfully, the prices are such that they don't demand you dissect every mouthful, searching for the inner nuances of the dish in an attempt to justify the expense - you can just simply tuck in and enjoy. Which is exactly what I did: the lettuce was fresh and crisp, the chicken flavourful and the guacamole creamy. A plate that had at first looked unassailable was actually surprisingly easy to finish.
My companion was slightly disappointed with his choice of beef tacos. There wasn't anything particularly wrong with the dish, which comprised a couple of flour tortillas filled with strips of beef, a small bowl of rice and a watery kidney bean concoction. It just looked a little forlorn, especially when compared to the large still-sizzling platters that descended on surrounding tables. A spoonful of salsa or pile of roasted onions and peppers would have livened things up considerably.
The dessert list was short and the only one that really piqued our interest was helado frito (fried ice cream). I let my companion order it, to make up for his main course, and opted instead for banana empenadas (a folded pie filled with fried banana). Although they were by no means terrible, I can't say I was a huge fan of them either. The ice cream tasted shop-bought, the batter not entirely fresh, and the empenada pastry was a touch soggy. If, by chance, you're a whipped cream fiend (the squirty can variety) then you'd be well catered for here; both our desserts were liberally adorned with the stuff.
The service at Loca is perhaps best described as noncommittal; staff seemed to remember our presence as and when they pleased and the food arrived accordingly. Despite this, I would certainly return; the atmosphere is fun and the food is (for the most part) tasty, plentiful and reasonably priced.
Loca Restaurant and Bar, Dubai Marine Beach Resort. For reservations, call 04 346 1111. A meal for two not including service costs Dh244. Reviewed meals are conducted anonymously and paid for by The National.