La Guinguette brunch at: Treehouse Dubai

Cool cupcakes to close out Treehouse brunch. Robert Garratt / The National

The location

Treehouse is the new(-ish) Taj Dubai’s new al fresco lounge, an upmarket Downtown rooftop hangout with – you guessed it – stunning Burj Khalifa views. As the name suggests, the venue dials Dubai’s sudden sheen for green. So with foliage and flora sprouting out of the furnishings, you can pretend to be both in a country garden AND suspended amidst the most modern cityscape on Earth.

The atmosphere

La Guinguette – an olde worlde French term for quaint venues offering music and merriment – is loudly sponsored by a renowned bubbly brand, with a matching colour scheme which goes right down to the place mats.

Things start at a lazy 2pm, with the beats blaring from kick-off, while neighbouring restaurant Tesoro hosts its own brunch from an hour earlier. It all feels a little like rocking up to a party already in full swing. To help said swing, kooky cardboard face masks sit waiting on your table – a wilful clash of class and kook.

The venue is carved in two by a long central bar which betrays the brunch’s true intentions, with the main space lined with high barroom tables and lounge couches. A handful of proper (and notably quieter) dinner tables sit behind the bar, ideal if you came to chat rather than boogie.

The food

If you were being charitable, one might say La Guinguette’s culinary offerings are a wilfully eclectic juxtaposition of two halves. A less forgiving explanation may be that perhaps food isn’t the priority at Treehouse.

Upon arrival – well, after quite a wait in our case – guests are presented with a cosy picnic basket of cold treats: bread, three cheeses, some okay-ish ceviche, cured meat, burrata and the ever-trendy quinoa tabbouleh. The terrace also hosts a small barbecue station serving chicken, prawns, sea bream and avocado (nice touch), and a cute homemade dessert selection (my cupcake had Picasso’s face on).

However for the bulk of your meal, guests are invited to traipse indoors and access the buffet brunch at the neighbouring Tesoro (yes, the very same one that’s been running since 1pm). On offer is a mid-sized international selection with a loose Peruvian theme, including an almighty paella bucket. This time, it feels a bit like hanging around awkwardly at the end of the party.

Who is it best for?

The late start time, Downtown location and relaxed approach to dining make this ideal for those preparing for a big night out on the town.

The verdict

We like the kitsch novelty feel, but a more creative culinary approach wouldn’t go unnoticed. No need for a second buffet, but to compete with the area’s burgeoning brunch offerings, why not offer Treehouse customers an a-la-carte main?

The National was a guest of the venue.

Fridays 2pm-5pm, priced Dh345-545. Treehouse, Taj Dubai, Business Bay, reservations 050 648 3083.