Bites review: Toko Dubai’s new boulevard menu

Toko Dubai. Courtesy Robert Garratt

When Sydney sushi hotspot Toko landed in Dubai early last year, it didn’t do it quietly. With a certain Hollywood actor by the name of Will Smith spotted at the launch party, this joint was making headlines before anyone had sat down for so much as a squid nigiri.

Such a celebrity turnout was PR you couldn’t buy (surely the Fresh Prince would never do a dial-an-appearance? Although I’m less convinced that cash didn’t change hands when Kim Kardashian stopped by in November, and more than 300 people paid Dh500 to dine in the same room...). Whatever – after such famous faces, you almost feel sorry for the chefs, it being oh-so-easy for the starstruck to overlook what they’re eating. So with news the Vida Downtown spot had launched a new street-food inspired “boulevard menu”, a year on from the grand launch seemed a fine time for a return visit.

The new menu might have been inspired by market days of yore, but served in such elegant surroundings, it felt five-star all the way. Things began wonderfully with a deceptively tasty tomato, avocado and rocket salad, given a light but distinctive charcoal taste, and a tasty tuna sashimi fusion, the raw fish served on a small Italian crostini and topped with truffle speckles – trust me, it worked.

But it was the sushi platter which blew things out of the izakaya patch – a decadent, more-ish array of spicy tuna and California maki, artfully piled next to a mouth-watering sashimi selection served on ice. When it comes to sushi, clearly you wouldn’t expect anything but the very best from a high-end Japanese joint, and I’m pleased to report Toko didn’t disappoint – as is too-often the case at similarly priced competition.

More treats were to come, including some seasoned grilled asparagus, arranged with a minor feat of engineering prowess into a house-shaped stack, and perhaps the least-greasy tempura we’ve ever encountered. The highlight however again came from the sea, a beautiful grilled salmon served with tangy miso sauce.

Things were rounded off with a delicate desert selection including sublime sorbets, a light panna cotta and fresh fruits served dramatically on dry ice. It was impossible at this point not to flop back, content, and look back on a thoroughly satisfying meal. Four thumbs up.

Another piece of good news – Toko is currently hosting the grooviest band in the land, Abri & Funk Radius, every Saturday night. Stop by for their inimitably dexterous take on funk and soul classics. No, really, do.

Toko is open daily from 7pm at the Vida Downtown, Dubai. For reservations call 04 442 8383 or email [e-mail]