I do a very simple test when deciding whether or not to eat in an Indian restaurant: peer through the glass or door to see how many Indians are dining. One table or none and I move on. But the sight of several families tucking into curries and kebabs is better than any advertisement. Barbecue Delights, however, is a Pakistani restaurant, albeit with strong Afghan influences. There are plenty of Indians, Pakistanis and even Afghans who may not welcome the comparison, but let's leave geopolitical hostilities aside because the test remains the same. The last thing I want in a South Asian restaurant is dumbed-down flavours catering to a meek Anglo palate.
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This popular chain has several branches in Pakistan and its Dubai location is fantastically situated on the upmarket Jumeirah Beach Residence Walk. The restaurant is more down-to-earth than the address suggests and on weekends it is packed with Arab and Pakistani families looking for a moderately priced meal. We are greeted by three very attentive staff when we arrive and are seated right away. The dining room has an orange, cream and black theme but it is too bright and feels like a hotel lobby.
"Would you like the steak?" the waiter asks my companion as we scan the menu. He is startled. Certainly not. But I see why he asked, when a few minutes later, two steaks with hot cheese arrive at the table on my left. The man at the table on my right is eating fish and chips. They are all Europeans. The menu is varied with a large selection of Arabic salads, Afghan kebabs and Pakistani curries. My companion and I decide to share a starter and main courses.
I order a fresh lime soda. The fish and chip eater next to us has also ordered a plate of pakoras which looks good. We'll have one too, please. They arrive hot and fast, minced vegetables battered in chick pea flour and deep fried, but they are not greasy at all. The lime soda is a disappointment, though. It is a commercial brand of soda with a squeeze of lime. My companion is dipping his fourth pakora into the coriander chutney when the main courses arrive. The lamb chops are peppery, tender and moreish. The royal kabuli palao is wonderful: the grains of rice are perfectly separated and darkened with caramelised sugar. Large pieces of baked lamb fall away at the bone. The dish has a mellow, deep flavour offset by slivers of sweet carrot. We order another Afghan speciality, mantu, steamed parcels of beef and onion served with a smattering of yogurt sauce. We eat six and want more.
Mutton seekh kebab, normally hard to do well because it ends up being greasy and bland, is spiced nicely with green chilli and balanced with tamarind sauce. It is best eaten with the fabulous naans which arrive straight from the tandoor oven with brushings of hot butter. We finish everything in less than 30 minutes and I am ready to be rolled out of the restaurant like a barrel, but there is still some room for dessert. Gulab jaman - cottage cheese thickened with milk - is good, but I can only eat two pieces before giving up.
My companion, who insists he doesn't want dessert, orders shahi tukray, bread soaked in cardamom-flavoured milk and pistachios, and polishes it all off. I'd recommend the two choices of mixed kebab platters if you cannot decide what to eat. There is also a buffet which is very good value. The food is not as spicy as Pakistani cuisine should be and I put this down to its heavy influence of Afghan food and a large Arab clientèle.
But I feel sorry for the cheese steak and fish and chip eaters. They seriously missed out. Barbecue Delights at the Jumeirah Beach Walk, Dubai. Our reviewer's meal for two cost Dh211 including soft drinks. Restaurants are reviewed incognito and the meals are paid for by The National. Charles Cole is a nom de plume.
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RACE CARD
6.30pm Mazrat Al Ruwayah – Group 2 (PA) $36,000 (Dirt) 1,600m
7.05pm Handicap (TB) $68,000 (Turf) 2,410m
7.40pm Meydan Trophy – Conditions (TB) $50,000 (T) 1,900m
8.15pm Al Maktoum Challenge Round 2 - Group 2 (TB) $293,000 (D) 1,900m
8.50pm Al Rashidiya – Group 2 (TB) $163,000 (T) 1,800m
9.25pm Handicap (TB) $65,000 (T) 1,000m
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TRAP
Starring: Josh Hartnett, Saleka Shyamalan, Ariel Donaghue
Director: M Night Shyamalan
Rating: 3/5
Five expert hiking tips
- Always check the weather forecast before setting off
- Make sure you have plenty of water
- Set off early to avoid sudden weather changes in the afternoon
- Wear appropriate clothing and footwear
- Take your litter home with you
Company profile
Name: Oulo.com
Founder: Kamal Nazha
Based: Dubai
Founded: 2020
Number of employees: 5
Sector: Technology
Funding: $450,000
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Greatest of All Time
Starring: Vijay, Sneha, Prashanth, Prabhu Deva, Mohan
The Perfect Couple
Starring: Nicole Kidman, Liev Schreiber, Jack Reynor
Creator: Jenna Lamia
Rating: 3/5
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BEETLEJUICE BEETLEJUICE
Starring: Winona Ryder, Michael Keaton, Jenny Ortega
Director: Tim Burton
Rating: 3/5
Star%20Wars%3A%20Episode%20I%20%E2%80%93%20The%20Phantom%20Menace
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Race card
6.30pm: Maiden (TB) Dh 82,500 (Dirt) 1.600m
7.05pm: Maiden (TB) Dh 82,500 (D) 2,000m
7.50pm: Handicap (TB) Dh 82,500 (D) 1,600m
8.15pm: The Garhoud Sprint Listed (TB) Dh 132,500 (D) 1,200m
8.50pm: The Entisar Listed (TB) Dh 132,500 (D) 2,000m
9.25pm: Conditions (TB) Dh 120,000 (D) 1,400m
Austrian Grand Prix race timings
Weekend schedule for Austrian Grand Prix - all timings UAE
Friday
Noon-1.30pm First practice
4-5.30pm Second practice
Saturday
1-2pm Final practice
4pm Qualifying
Sunday
4pm Austrian Grand Prix (71 laps)
Results
5pm: Wadi Nagab – Maiden (PA) Dh80,000 (Turf) 1,200m; Winner: Al Falaq, Antonio Fresu (jockey), Ahmed Al Shemaili (trainer)
5.30pm: Wadi Sidr – Handicap (PA) Dh80,000 (T) 1,200m; Winner: AF Majalis, Tadhg O’Shea, Ernst Oertel
6pm: Wathba Stallions Cup – Handicap (PA) Dh70,000 (T) 2,200m; Winner: AF Fakhama, Fernando Jara, Mohamed Daggash
6.30pm: Wadi Shees – Handicap (PA) Dh80,000 (T) 2,200m; Winner: Mutaqadim, Antonio Fresu, Ibrahim Al Hadhrami
7pm: Arabian Triple Crown Round-1 – Listed (PA) Dh230,000 (T) 1,600m; Winner: Bahar Muscat, Antonio Fresu, Ibrahim Al Hadhrami
7.30pm: Wadi Tayyibah – Maiden (TB) Dh80,000 (T) 1,600m; Winner: Poster Paint, Patrick Cosgrave, Bhupat Seemar
It’ll be summer in the city as car show tries to move with the times
If 2008 was the year that rocked Detroit, 2019 will be when Motor City gives its annual car extravaganza a revamp that aims to move with the times.
A major change is that this week's North American International Auto Show will be the last to be held in January, after which the event will switch to June.
The new date, organisers said, will allow exhibitors to move vehicles and activities outside the Cobo Center's halls and into other city venues, unencumbered by cold January weather, exemplified this week by snow and ice.
In a market in which trends can easily be outpaced beyond one event, the need to do so was probably exacerbated by the decision of Germany's big three carmakers – BMW, Mercedes-Benz and Audi – to skip the auto show this year.
The show has long allowed car enthusiasts to sit behind the wheel of the latest models at the start of the calendar year but a more fluid car market in an online world has made sales less seasonal.
Similarly, everyday technology seems to be catching up on those whose job it is to get behind microphones and try and tempt the visiting public into making a purchase.
Although sparkly announcers clasp iPads and outline the technical gadgetry hidden beneath bonnets, people's obsession with their own smartphones often appeared to offer a more tempting distraction.
“It's maddening,” said one such worker at Nissan's stand.
The absence of some pizzazz, as well as top marques, was also noted by patrons.
“It looks like there are a few less cars this year,” one annual attendee said of this year's exhibitors.
“I can't help but think it's easier to stay at home than to brave the snow and come here.”