Sufret Maryam review: Chef Salam Dakkak takes Palestinian flavours up a notch with new restaurant

Popular chef behind Bait Maryam packs big flavours in her latest tribute to food from the Levant

Khobez al bait is one of Sufret Maryam's signature dishes. Photo: Sufret Maryam

Sufret Maryam, the brainchild of Palestinian-Jordanian chef Salam Dakkak and big sister to popular JLT spot Bait Maryam, is as authentic and wholesome as aficionados of her cuisine might expect.

Chef Dakkak, who has a Michelin Bib Gourmand commendation and was ranked the Mena region's best female chef in 2023, set out to elevate Bait Maryam’s flavours with her latest outing – in a setting that brings more tourist diners to her cuisine.

Located in Wasl 51, Jumeirah 1, the restaurant is lined with Middle Eastern art and there’s a grand, distinctive, Palestinian orange tree at its centre. Immediately struck by the traditional and homely feel, my dining partner and I head to our table excited to taste the Palestinian flavours awaiting us.

Where to sit, what to expect

Shown to our table by our server, Hassan, we are directed to a corner that overlooks Jumeirah 1’s bustling streets. The decor very much lives up to the restaurant’s name, which directly translates to “Maryam’s dining table”.

At every corner, there’s a furnishing or ornament that pays tribute to the Levant and the soft-touch colour scheme gives it a distinctly warm vibe. If there’s one thing to be critical of, though, it’s that this restaurant is slightly too big.

If Sufret Maryam’s primary appeal is its Arabic authenticity, the size of the restaurant somewhat takes the edge off that. It feels quiet, the tables are spaced apart and there isn’t the hustle and bustle frequenters of the smaller, older, Bait Maryam might be used to.

It’s almost like its bid to elevate the Palestinian flavours that have helped build chef Dakkak’s hard-earned reputation are somehow at odds with the glamour and sanitised feel of a venue where you can’t even feel the presence of, forget conversing with, the other diners around you. That takes nothing away from the magnificence of the food, though, or the attentiveness of the wonderful staff.

The menu

With Hassan’s expertise guiding our choices, my dining partner and I tuck into a selection of Sufret Maryam’s signature dishes. It gives the experience a tapas-style feel, and I’d recommend anyone visiting to take the same approach as it enables you to really soak up what this restaurant is all about.

The khobez al bait (Dh41), or house bread, is a must-order. Seriously, no trip to Sufret Maryam is complete without it. It’s that good.

This bread is prepared the traditional way, with dough fermented for 48 hours and then cooked in-house and served hot with the crusts slightly burnt, but the bread itself soft on the inside. It’s served with a labneh cream and tomato salsa, meaning you can tear it up and dip away for a delicious, and very sociable, starter.

After such a crowd-pleasing start, it’s difficult to see what Hassan can muster up to match the high standards he’s set. He manages it, though, with the mezze mixed grill (Dh116).

A staple of any table in the Middle East, the wide selection of meats is served alongside kale salad and a bowl of Palestinian hummus. Of these, my dining partner and I agree that the hummus is the most worthy of being dubbed a standout dish.

It’s presented magnificently with small flowers lining the bowl and a dollop of olive oil dropped in its centre. Once you taste it, it gets even better. This isn’t the hummus you might have got used to, it’s silky smooth and packed with the sort of flavour you only come across when the ingredients are exceptionally fresh. It’s so good you almost want to eat it on its own, so to say it elevates the flavour of the meat or bread you have with it would be an understatement.

For dessert, Hassan recommends the labneh brulee (Dh62) to round off a truly authentic evening of Middle Eastern cuisine.

It’s light and delicate, and the serving of zaatar ice cream alongside makes it refreshing, too. There’s also a touch of olive oil that adds a different, more savoury, complexion. It’s a wonderful way to round off an excellent dinner.

Save or splurge

A three-course meal can cost between Dh137 and Dh516. On the high end of the price spectrum lie shawarma lahme (Dh74), a hot mezze of tenderloin meat, pickled cabbage and tahini sauce; la'moshet Maryam (Dh380), a main dish of slow-cooked lamb shoulder marinated with chef Dakkak's special spices; and labneh brulee (Dh62) for dessert.

The three most reasonable dishes across starter, main and dessert are hummus (Dh36); shish tawook (Dh62); and zaatar ice cream (Dh39).

A chat with the chef

Dakkak is a gastronomic celebrity in the UAE known for showcasing the rich flavours and traditions of the Levant. She tells me her culinary journey is deeply inspired by her late mother, Maryam, as she recalls family gatherings where lasting and heartfelt connections were made with delicious food the centrepiece of every occasion.

Chef Dakkak says olive oil is her favourite ingredient to cook with, and is key to several of her favourite dishes, from fresh salads to flavourful mezze. “Not only does it taste incredible, but it also connects me to the rich culinary heritage of the Levantine,” she says. One example of how she uses it creatively is in the labneh brulee.

“What really makes it special is the olive oil crumble,” she says. “Each bite is a delightful mix of sweet and savoury.”

For vegetarians, she recommends molokhia bil zeit – jute olives with olive oil and served with lemon caviar. For meat lovers, it’s la’moushet Maryam – slowly cooked lamb’s neck with saj bread and savoury dips, made to be shared among four people.

For those favouring seafood, she suggests fish seyadeye – pan-fried white fish served with fluffy rice and topped with toasted nuts and caramelised onions.

Price point and contact information

Starters range from Dh39 to Dh110, mains are Dh62 to Dh380, while desserts are D39 to Dh57. Sufret Maryam is open daily from 9am to midnight. Reservations can be made by contacting 050 417 2272 or visiting sufretmaryam.com.

This review was conducted at the invitation of the restaurant