Amelie review: A mini escape to the Mediterranean coast in London's Belgravia

New opening in the Pantechnicon building aims to be a place where friends and family gather for comfort food

Belgravia's Amelie wants visitors to return time and again. Photo: Amelie

To my mind, all the best restaurants should require exercise to reach. All the better to work up an appetite on the way there, and wake yourself up on the way home.

I wouldn’t call 15 minutes from London’s Victoria Station a long walk, but it was certainly enough on a brisk November evening to build excitement for the opening of Amelie, a new French-Mediterranean offering in the well-heeled Belgravia.

On entering through the bright white neoclassical pillars, which adorn the facade of the gargantuan Pantechnicon building on the small but classy Motcombe Street in Belgravia, we were met with beaming smiles of a team eager to show off their new workplace. All three of the building's establishments were having their opening night after a renovation and reconfiguration, with cool Japanese spot Sachi celebrating a move from the basement to the top floor and rooftop, and late night lounge Luum welcoming its first crowd.

Where to sit and what to expect

To reach Amelie, a door off the large entranceway gives way to an intimate bar and restaurant area, with raised circular banquette seating for groups and tables for two in a pleasing line. Then it is on up a chic spiral staircase to the main dining room, which offers views of the quiet street below through large windows, but facing inward is more rewarding.

The pretty dining room is fresh, with comfortable orange-hued velour chairs nestled against crisp white tablecloths. The tables are well spaced, with a lamp perched on each to counteract the atmospheric dim lighting and assist with reading the art deco-inspired menu. The crowd is varied – from well-heeled retirees trying the latest neighbourhood opening with shopping bags in tow, to a group of young men in lively conversation. It made for an inclusive atmosphere, marred only by the playlist, which felt inauthentic and scattered, lunging from instrumental to soul music.

The ambience gives the easy-going exclusivity of a members club, without the need for an invite. Perhaps that makes sense when you consider head chef Steve Raveneau’s background at membership clubs Annabel’s and The Arts Club. He says he aims to bring the warmth of the Mediterranean coast to the city with Amelie, “like a mini-getaway right here in town”.

The menu

As winter draws in and the nights get longer, a break from the bustle sounds attractive. The menu is an encapsulation of Raveneau's childhood in Brittany savouring home-cooked food, later moving to work in Michelin-starred restaurants in the Cote d’Azur before a hop over the channel to London more than 10 years ago.

"It’s honest and grounded in tradition," he says of his cooking style. "My mother taught me that cooking is about bringing people together, and that’s exactly what I aim for at Amelie. I want it to feel like a second home where you can gather with friends and family over familiar, comforting dishes."

Usually I only order scallops when I am close to the ocean, but the lure of Saint Jacques served with a citrus butter was too much to resist. We also order Japanese amberjack, a fresh yellowtail carpaccio to keep the vibe light and not overfill our stomachs. For the less seafood inclined, the burrata with truffle seems a great option.

The presentation of both dishes is impeccable, the scallops seared and halved, their pert yet soft texture a familiar and welcome beginning. But the yellowtail is the winner of the course, melting in the mouth as one expects, but without the sometimes overpowering zing the accompanying citrus can leave behind.

Never able to visit a French restaurant without ordering a steak, we selected the wood-fired New Zealand rib-eye, one of a few steak choices on the menu. The steak was tasty as expected, and cooked perfectly, but the accompanying parsley dressing lacked flavour. On the side, truffle mash does as truffle mash does, but the star was the broccoli – lightly charred with a delicious crisp but still feeling like you are doing your body some good.

Diners can also choose dishes to share, from whole grilled sea bass to lobster orzo or even a Wagyu beef rib.

As my dining partner and I chat, the food and ambience do indeed feel like an escape from our busy lives. It’s clear we are on opening night, as the service is at times stilted, but always with a smile and enthusiasm for the menu.

Fittingly for its home in the capital’s embassy district, Raveneau suggests sharing a pot of caviar (starting at £90 for 50g of Oscietra Caviar) across the courses of the meal at Amelie, saying: “it elevates each dish in a subtle way, and I'd happily enjoy it at any meal – even breakfast”.

We brought the meal to a close with Basque cheesecake. "It’s honestly the best cheesecake I’ve ever had, and it doesn’t last long when it’s in front of me," says Raveneau, and I tend to agree. There was no need for coulis, cream or any other accompaniment, as the flavour was rich and creamy, but – almost unheard of in Basque cheesecake – the slice wasn't too heavy.

Dessert may have been light, but the accumulation of courses had certainly filled me up. We felt satisfied but able to walk ourselves back to the station rather than being rolled home.

Standout dish

The red mullet and tomato provided the true wow factor of the meal. Raveneau has elevated his favourite fish to new heights here. The plump, rich taste of the fish with a hint of a crisp, was complimented expertly by tomatoes sourced from Italy.

Price point and contact information

Starters range from £12 to £28, mains £28 to £68. Sharing dishes from £48 to £260. Amelie is open daily from midday.

This review was conducted at the invitation of the restaurant