Loona review: Russian import serves up Italian classics in Downtown Dubai

Pasta and pizza dough crafted in-house at restaurant with Moscow roots

Loona's cauliflower with parmesan and truffle is a must-try, vegetarian or not. Photo: Loona

Nestled in the heart of Dubai’s bustling downtown streets lies a recent Russian export with a big reputation.

Loona, whose parent restaurant of the same name can be found within walking distance of Moscow’s Red Square, prides itself on serving “clean Italian food”. It is the brainchild of three friends; Anton Pinksy, Artem Losev and Vitaly Istomin.

The concept is primarily one of simplicity; a place where you can expect high-quality ingredients making up a menu of Italian classics with a modern, energetic feel.

The pizza and pasta dough is prepared in-house, the prices are reasonable and it’s a sophisticated menu that can cater equally well to business lunches or relaxed catch-ups with friends.

Where to sit, what to expect

Loona can be found on the ground floor of Vida Downtown Residences, giving it a distinctly modern feel. That aesthetic is consistent inside, too. It’s a venue with a clean, open-plan feel that’s brightly lit with an abundance of seating options.

There’s an open kitchen, meaning you can watch the chefs in action as they prepare pasta and pizza dough.

On arrival, my dining partner and I are directed to a table that offers a view of Burj Khalifa Boulevard. The floor-to-door windows make it a spectacular spot to watch the world go by while tucking into familiar Italian dishes.

The menu

Once seated, my dining partner and I are welcomed by our server for the evening, Julia. Her relaxed and professional approach makes us feel we're in capable hands as we invite her to pick a selection of her favourite dishes for us to try tapas-style. We’re not disappointed.

First up comes a bowl of parmesan chips served with homemade hummus. A simple start, but it’s served to perfection and sets the tone for the dishes to come.

Next up comes a plate of cauliflower carpaccio with parmesan and truffle followed by aubergine with parmesan mousse.

The cauliflower carpaccio is truly one of the most intricate, fresh-tasting and delicious dishes I’ve had in Dubai for a long time – and my dining partner agrees. The aubergine is wonderful too but if there’s one dish I’d recommend above all others at Loona it’s the cauliflower, and I look forward to my next visit to tuck in once again.

For our main course tastings, we try a trio of Italian classics that would be crowd-pleasers in pretty much any setting around the world; beef lasagne, porcini mushroom risotto and a margherita pizza.

All freshly made, all exceptional, there aren’t enough superlatives to describe how well these hit the spot. Yet, if my dining partner and I have to pick a highlight, it would probably be the pizza purely down to how special it is. The dough is a delight, and the tomato base is so noticeably fresh we just kept going back for more.

For dessert, the salted caramel tiramisu is worth the wait, too. We're told it's inspired by a recipe shared by the chef’s mother, and it shows. It’s bustling with irresistible flavour and has that distinctively homely feel to it. I can’t think of many better notes to end a dinner on.

While the service and food quality are impressive, particularly for a price point in line with many other easy-dining chains in the city, the menu almost covers too much culinary ground. It can be hard to decipher which are the stand-out dishes to try, going well beyond the staple pizzas and pasta we were expecting. Although we don't run into that problem with Julia, I can imagine the paradox of choice may kick in for fellow diners.

A chat with the chef

Andrey Akimov, Loona’s head chef, was inspired to cook after watching chefs like Gordon Ramsay on TV when he was young. Having learnt his craft at several Italian restaurants in Moscow, he was appointed sous chef at Loona in the Russian capital. Six months later, he finds himself as head chef of its Dubai restaurant.

Akimov describes his cooking style as modern European with a strong Italian influence. “It’s all about simplicity, quality ingredients, and balance,” he says. “I love incorporating seasonal and local ingredients, blending classic techniques with a bit of creativity to create dishes that are both comforting and refined."

With a smile, Akimov tells me mushrooms are “without a doubt” his favourite ingredient to cook with, and this is evident from the menu. "Mushrooms bring a sense of balance and complexity to every bite,” he adds.

“Having spent years working in a restaurant that focused on mushrooms, I learned how to highlight their natural umami and combine them with various ingredients in exciting ways.”

For vegetarians, he recommends the wild mushroom risotto or the aubergine with parmesan mousse. For meat lovers, he suggests the lamb patty with mashed potato and parmesan, or the beef burger featuring Asian sauce. For seafood lovers, Akimov’s tip is to try the lobster pasta or the octopus with tomato and, for dessert, it’s the tiramisu that gets the nod.

Summing up his food philosophy, Akimov believes the best dishes don't need to be complicated, "What matters is thoughtful preparation and attention to detail,” he says. “Seasonal ingredients play a big role in my cooking as they allow me to create fresh, vibrant dishes that are in harmony with nature.”

Price point and contact information

Starters range from Dh40 to Dh195, mains are Dh70 to Dh260, while desserts are Dh30 to Dh75.

Loona is open daily from 8am to 1am. Reservations can be made by contacting 05 885 02200

This review was conducted at the invitation of the restaurant