Abc kitchens review: Jean-Georges Vongerichten rolls three New York restaurants into one in London

The famed French chef is known for utilising seasonal ingredients at his acclaimed outlets

A full cauliflower roasted and served to share is one of the star dishes at abc kitchens. Photo: abc kitchens

Among the hustle and bustle of central London sits a new restaurant that offers a place to escape the crowds and the traffic. Abc kitchens is the newest restaurant by acclaimed French chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten that brings together his celebrated trilogy from New York – abc kitchen, abcV and abc cocina – all under one roof.

Where to sit and what to expect

The venue is a cosy area on the ground floor of The Emory, over the road from London’s Hyde Park, and the city’s first all-suite hotel. A discrete lane off the main road takes me to the lobby at the side of the hotel, where a concierge greets us and then escorts us through to the restaurant.

The staff are young and friendly, in keeping with the whole relaxed vibe of the place. Whether or not it’s deliberate, their lack of uniforms dials down the stuffiness. The restaurant is warmly lit and not too bright, which creates an intimate feel.

Colourful abstract paintings on the wall add a quirky touch and judging by the chatter, it’s clearly a place where diners can have a good time with the music playing. In the kitchen area, chefs beaver away and the occasional flame adds to the colour.

The menu

An eclectic combination of the three New York restaurants, the menu reflects Vongerichten's vision of utilising the best of the season’s ingredients to bring them together in “fiery, zesty and fresh” dishes. The concept is small plates for people to share and they don’t have to be eaten in any order, explains our waitress.

First to arrive is the chef’s famous spring pea guacamole with sunflower seeds, green chilli and warm crunchy tortillas from the snacks section. The dish initially sparked controversy when it was unveiled at Vongerichten's New York restaurant before becoming one of its most popular dishes, and it’s easy to see why. The peas bring a new freshness and slightly sweeter flavour to the time-honoured snack and the warm crunchy tortillas are a particular hit.

In keeping with the small plates philosophy, we jump to the end of the menu for some vegetable action. Beetroot carpaccio has all the alluring deep red colour of meat but comes with flavours of tartare such as capers and shallots. An avocado puree in the middle adds to the riot of colour.

Born in Strasbourg, France, where he began his career, Vongerichten went on to work with renowned hospitality brands including Mandarin Oriental in Bangkok and Hong Kong, as well as the Meridien Hotel in Singapore.

“I developed my love and passion for the exotic and aromatic flavours of the East,” he explains. In recent years Vongerichten says he abandoned the traditional ways of cooking with meat stocks and creams and learnt to "implement the essence of vegetable juices, fruit essences and herbal vinaigrettes”.

The menu reflects this journey around the Orient and his time working there. None more so than the Orkney sea scallop tartare, which has a distinctly Japanese feel to its flavour and presentation. The scallops come in a kohlrabi and plum sesame sauce, all of which is wrapped in a delicate shiso leaf at the side of the plate.

From the fires of the kitchen comes tender and perfectly cooked chargrilled beef tenderloin sitting on a bed of chimichurri. Vongerichten boasts about bringing fresh concepts to life and he has worked wonders with the cauliflower dish. The simple vegetable is transformed with roasting and served with a turmeric-tahini pistachio and date molasses with a spicy red zhug on the side.

The Emory has a helipad and by the time our peach cobbler comes, we fear it might be our only viable means of getting home. The huge dollop of creme fraiche ice cream sitting on a light biscuity topping is a warm and comforting end to the night.

Standout dish

Ultimately it is the sauteed south coast John Dory that steals the show. I can feel the smooth firm texture of the fish beneath the thin crust as it hits my mouth. The John Dory itself sits on a bed of spinach and asparagus cooked in a light broth surrounded by citrus tahini sauce with a mild spicy kick.

“I always add citrus or an acidic element and of course, heat and chilli, and it all comes together brilliantly in this dish," Vongerichten says.

Price point and contact information

Starters from £15 to £26 ($19 to $34), mains from £29 to £51 and desserts from £14 to £17. Abc kitchens is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.

This review was conducted at the invitation of the restaurant