How hotel dining is evolving as guests crave culinary excellence

From Atlantis to the Emirates Palace, hoteliers explain why celebrity chefs, Michelin stars and pushing culinary boundaries matter

Marriott International recently launched the Luminary Set, which lists many of its Michelin-starred restaurants. Photo: Helen at Mount Juliet Estate in Ireland

The evolution of hotels has been a fascinating journey, marked by significant advancements in technology, design and service – and one aspect has been turning heads and palates lately: the food.

Historically, the dining component in hotels has been seen as a necessary evil, often relegated to run-of-the-mill all-day restaurants serving a generic fare. This is not the case any more. Hoteliers have been channelling exceptional culinary destinations, often teaming up with top chefs and restaurateurs as part of the guest's hospitality experience.

For example, Marriott International recently launched the Luminary Set, a restaurant umbrella that highlights its acclaimed dining spots across its properties in Europe and the Middle East. The curated list, which can be browsed through a dedicated website, includes 40 restaurants in 10 countries.

“The purpose behind the Luminary Set is to showcase Marriott International's collection of critically acclaimed tastemakers and culinary innovators,” Nicolas Marzioni, the hospitality group's vice president of food and beverage for the Europe, Middle East and Africa region, tells The National.

These spots are notable for either having Michelin stars, of which they have 18, or having been recognised by other top restaurant guides.

A new breed of travellers

Evolving guest preferences are the main driver of the latest Marriott initiative. Marzioni says there's a new wave of travellers who are “economically powerful and highly conscious" of the broader impacts of their consumption. “Despite their diverse influences, they are increasingly in pursuit of authentic and real experiences,” he adds.

But it isn't only Marriott that's taking advantage. Another example of how a hotel has been embracing the power of a good dining offering is the Atlantis hotel group, home to several Michelin-starred venues, such as Ossiano at Atlantis, The Palm and Dinner by Heston at the neighbouring Atlantis The Royal.

“We always intended to bring together a collective of world-class, celebrity chef-led restaurants to support the overall Atlantis objective, which is to be a destination home to more celebrity chefs than anywhere else in the world,” says Kym Barter, the general manager and senior vice president of Atlantis, The Palm.

“We know that a vast majority of travellers choose a resort or destination based on the culinary offering, so we make sure we meet these demands while staying ahead of the competition.”

It makes commercial sense, too, as Barter says that food and beverage are now a major contributing factor to the overall financial success of the Atlantis hotels.

With Dubai's dining scene already highly competitive, hoteliers will need to work hard to create a strong culinary draw. Barter says there are more than 13,000 restaurants and cafes and more than 800 hotels, with travellers "spoilt for choice".

“The competition is fierce," he adds. "You need to make sure you are pushing boundaries to stand out – and one way of doing this is to ensure you offer an excellent culinary programme.”

Strong partnerships

Barter admits it takes a lot of work to curate the best culinary offering, which they create with the help of parent company Kerzner International. “We work closely with them in this process and collectively reach out to relevant and interesting brands and chefs who we believe are a good match,” he explains.

At times, it also takes travelling the world and spotting good dining venues to bring back to the Dubai properties. “A fantastic example of this is the relationship we have developed with chef Bjorn Frantzen [who runs two restaurants with three Michelin stars]," he adds. "Our team visited his restaurants, and now he will be opening two new restaurants at Atlantis, The Palm later this year.”

These partnerships are crucial in a hotel's culinary ambition, says Mario Cittadini, who recently joined Emirates Palace Mandarin Oriental in Abu Dhabi as its new food and beverage director. “When selecting chefs or culinary partners, we focus on culinary excellence, creativity and alignment with the group’s values,” he says. “We look for individuals who are not only masters of their craft but also bring a unique perspective that can elevate our dining experience.”

These all check out even from a chef's perspective. British chef Jason Atherton says: “I believe most travellers today will book a hotel based on its food and beverage experience. Does it have a great bar? Is the breakfast fantastic? Could I stay in this hotel for two to three days and be able to eat in its restaurants?”

The chef – whose restaurant Row on 45 at Grosvenor House, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Dubai recently won two Michelin stars – has two of his restaurants (the other is City Social) featured in the Luminary Set. He says having the right hotel partner is also key to a successful fine dining business.

“Concepts like this take a lot of backing," he says. "Hotels have got to believe in the chef, in the concept, and in what restaurateurs are trying to deliver to their guests, which can really enhance their appeal."