Andaliman review: Stylish restaurant brings Indonesian spices and Balinese vibe to Dubai

The ayam bakar will make diners question why Indonesian grilled chicken is not the next big thing

Classic Indonesian dishes, such as nasi goreng, are given a five-star twist at Andaliman. Photo: One&Only One Za’abeel

Indonesian cuisine has a worthy stage on which to shine at Andaliman. Found within the stylish surroundings of the One&Only One Za’abeel, the restaurant offers elevated versions of traditional and street food comforts without comprising on any of the signature bold and earthy flavours.

Where to sit and what to expect

With its two towers connected by a cantilever called The Link, One&Only One Za’abeel is certainly one of Dubai’s most eye-catching hotels.

Staff at the white-marbled main lobby escort our party of three to the fourth floor where the restaurant is accessed through a serene Indonesian-inspired garden pool.

Ubud vibes come into full bloom once inside with feature walls infused with lush green shrubbery. There is teakwood furniture and walls with Balinese wooden carvings of plant and animal motifs.

A spacious open kitchen overlooks a dining hall where family tables are flanked by couple and small group seating, cementing the message of Andaliman being an experience best shared.

The menu

More than the warm staff, Andaliman's attentiveness extends to its bright and snappy menu.

Split into five numerical stages – spanning appetisers, dishes slow or wok-cooked, grilled plates and desserts – it is winningly disarming and with enough description to raise curiosity and appetites.

Each party of diners gets its own sambal trolley parked tableside with dedicated “spice ambassadors” preparing an assortment of chilli paste based on desired heat levels.

The variety of starters – presented in the menu as satu, the Indonesian word for number one – reflect the dynamism and inclusive traits of Indonesian cuisine. Rujak Andaliman is a traditional fruit and vegetable salad. Each bite offers surprising combinations of flavour and texture, the juicy and sweet pineapples colliding with the crunchiness of the root vegetable jicama. A tangy sauce, made of peanuts, tamarind, chilli and palm sugar, brings it all together.

The Indonesian street food favourite perkedel, a vegetable fritter made from mashed potatoes, goes gourmet at Andaliman. Presented as a hearty potato cake, it is served with a decadent tuna tartare, crab salad and pickled pineapple.

Pastel ayam, known as the Indonesian empanada owing to its resemblance to the Spanish pastry, is stuffed with aromatic chicken mince. Golden brown and perfectly crisp, it comes on top of a bed of glass noodles.

These innovations give way to refined authenticity when it comes to some of Indonesia’s revered staples.

The beef rendang served here is one of the best versions of the Indonesian stew I have come across. The slow-braised beef, a premium Australian Angus, is perfectly stewed and melts in the mouth.

The sauce is thick and sweet, the heat generated from the chillies offset by the sweetness of coconut milk, while ginger and turmeric amplify the earthy aroma. It took supreme will to stop me from polishing it off without the accompanying sticky coconut rice.

The country's celebrated fried rice dish, nasi goreng, ticks all boxes to make it a winner. First up, it passes the smell test upon its sizzling arrival to the table with a pungent aroma of sweet soy sauce, garlic, dried anchovies and shredded tuna.

The smokiness of the wok fried rice also comes through as it mixes with all those umami flavours to create a number of impactful bites. I only wish the fried egg were employed more creatively, by mixing it through with all the ingredients to create the dish's signature golden hue and creamy texture, rather than placing it as a neat omelette on top.

The ayam bakar makes me question why Indonesian grilled chicken is not the next big thing. Succulently grilled with a brilliant charred exterior, the dish for two has a smoky flavour mixed with a light marinade including turmeric, lemon grass and coconut milk. This is a veritable feast for the senses. Forget eating this street food gem with a knife and fork (or the fact you are in a ritzy five-star hotel): just use your hands and dig in.

The aneka buah, a seasonal fruit platter consisting of mango, papaya and tropical fruit jelly, brings a fabulously hearty meal to an end. Those with room to spare should check out es tung-tung, named after the street vendors selling the nostalgic coconut-milk-based Indonesian ice cream.

A fine-dining experience at a relatively modest cost, Andaliman is a worthy entry point to experience one of South-east Asia’s most underrated cuisines.

A chat with the chef

The colour and boldness characterising Andaliman’s menu is down to its signature ingredient and restaurant’s namesake, according to Indonesian chef de cuisine Ismawan Dzabir. Named after the key north Sumatran spice commonly used in Indonesian cuisine, Andaliman peppers embody the big and bold flavours of the chef's homeland, he says.

“It is my favourite ingredient to work with: a unique blend of delicate lime and mandarin flavours and a tingling sensation that add an unforgettable touch to Indonesian cuisine.

“We've incorporated this pepper into many signature dishes, infusing them with its distinctive essence. I use it to marinate beef, chicken and duck, and to flavour the restaurant’s soups and speciality curries. We also use it to season grilled dishes and infuse home-made oil. The love for this pepper is so profound that it inspired the restaurant's name.”

Dzabir credits his own initial inspirations to growing up in a tightly knit family. “My profound understanding of Indonesian culinary traditions stems from cherished memories of watching my grandmother and mother effortlessly wield their culinary magic in the kitchen,” he says.

“My travels across various Indonesian villages exposed me to the rich tapestry of traditional cooking methods and locally sourced ingredients. These formative experiences instilled a deep-seated appreciation for the authentic essence of Indonesian cuisine.”

Price point and contact information

Starters range from Dh65 to Dh85; mains go for between Dh79 and Dh410; and desserts are Dh45 to Dh50.

Andaliman is open for lunch from noon to 4pm and for dinner from 6pm to 11pm. For reservations, call 04 666 1617.

The review was conducted at the invitation of the restaurant