Ronin review: Elegant Japanese flavours at Dubai hot spot Five Luxe are a crowd pleaser

Explosion of class and taste awaits at fantastic new dining venue

The tuna crispy is one of Ronin's signature starters, and perfect to share. Photo: Five Luxe

There’s no doubt about it, Five Luxe is one of the most discussed hotel brands in the UAE right now – particularly in Dubai.

With hotels in JVC and Palm Jumeirah, Five is known for its parties and upbeat atmosphere, and the chain’s third offering does not disappoint in that regard.

But its food and beverage offerings could be what really make this JBR venue stand apart, and Japanese restaurant Ronin could prove to be a real crowd pleaser.

Where to sit, what to expect

On arrival at Five Luxe, to get to Ronin we are directed into what can only be described as a lift for the stars. Sparkling and lined with mirrors, it makes my dining partner and I feel like a million dollars as we make our way to the higher floors and the restaurant that awaits.

Once there, we are greeted by spectacular views looking out over JBR, Dubai Marina and Palm Jumeirah. It is a scene so picturesque, we can’t help but feel we have arrived somewhere special.

Ronin does not disappoint. It is a huge restaurant with an open-plan kitchen so we can see the chefs hard at work. The largely black, almost gothic, decor gives it more than a hint of personality.

There’s house music playing which gives the venue a nice ambience, and it is at a perfect volume too. Loud enough to add a sense of atmosphere, but not too loud to stifle conversation.

What’s more, there are indoor and outdoor seating options. Given the views, we opt for outdoor so that we can take in the best of the Dubai's skyline as we enjoy dinner.

The menu

For our starters, my dining partner and I opt for a tapas-style selection so we can dabble in as many of the restaurant’s specialities as possible. We choose a sushi platter, spiced edamame, shrimp popcorn and tuna crispy.

The highlight is without doubt the tuna crispy, which is essentially sliced tuna tartare served on a pizza slice with a truffle oil garnish. The tuna is incredibly fresh and it makes for the perfect opening to the meal that awaits us. It feels like seafood is one of Ronin’s specialities, as the shrimp and sushi dishes combine excellently with the ever-reliable edamame.

For our main courses, I decide to stick to the seafood theme and go for the black cod served with miso sauce, while my dining partner opts for the kimchi fried rice served with beef and egg.

The black cod is melt-in-the-mouth magnificent and, having had it recommended to me by our ultra-attentive waiter, I am not disappointed.

My dining partner, meanwhile, witnesses something of a show as the waiting staff mix in the egg and beef with the kimchi rice at our table. The result is an explosion of flavour in a one-pot dish, and both of us are left with the satisfaction one only gets after a truly brilliant main course.

Suitably full at this point, it feels like dessert might be a step too far, but we have our arms twisted at the prospect of mochi ice cream.

This comes presented in an elegant jewellery-style box which the waiter duly lifts to show the icy contents within. Inside are a selection of mochi flavours, allowing us to end our evening meal with the delights of ice cream surrounded by the jelly-like dumpling exterior.

A chat with the chef

Originally from Busan, South Korea, chef SK Choi has over 15 years of culinary experience spanning Asia, the US, UK and now the Middle East.

But chef Choi found his calling in Japanese food, something he has a “deep-rooted passion” for due to the emphasis on cleanliness and respect for ingredients.

He has worked alongside renowned chefs such as Michelin-lauded chefs Jacob Jan Boerma, Laurent Peugeot and Akira Back, and Australian celebrity chef Mark Best.

Choi joined Ronin seven months ago, describing it as an “unmissable opportunity” after working at Dubai’s Armani Hotel. As a proud Korean, chef Choi’s favourite ingredient to cook with is kimchi. “It’s not just a beloved staple in Korean cuisine, but an incredible ingredient to cook with,” he explains.

“A unique fermentation process lends an intense flavour, making it incredibly versatile and a perfect accompaniment to many dishes.

“One standout dish on Ronin’s menu is the kimchi and Wagyu beef tacos, wherein tangy and spicy kimchi perfectly complements the rich Wagyu beef, making it a crowd favourite and popular choice with guests.”

Describing his cooking style, chef Choi says his approach has evolved over time and he craves to strike a balance between creativity, flavour harmony and cultural innovation.

“I eventually realised the true essence of food lies in its taste and texture,” he says. “This realisation led me to focus on creating dishes that are not only visually appealing, but also intuitively delicious and rooted in the basics of cooking, catering to everyone's palate.

“I enjoy experimenting with various sauces and incorporating aged flavours to add depth and complexity to my dishes.”

For vegetarians dining at Ronin, he recommends the kimchi rice. Chef Choi highlights the niku platter featuring A5 Wagyu and A5 bulgogi for meat-lovers, and he picks out the chilli butter lobster for seafood enthusiasts. As for dessert, his pick is the bento box as it offers a variety of treats such as molten chocolate, Hokkaido cheesecake, mochi ice cream and Japanese doughnuts.

He describes his philosophy as one that focuses on creating “food that is clean, flavourful and that I’m proud to serve”.

He says: “At Ronin, we break away from traditional Japanese fine dining to offer an experience that is both fun and high quality.”

Price point and contact information

Starters range from Dh35 to Dh120, mains are Dh75 to Dh750, while desserts are D55 to Dh220.

Ronin is open daily from 6pm to 2am. Reservations can be made by contacting 04 275 9999 or visiting www.ronindubai.com.

This review was conducted at the invitation of the restaurant