Noon by Noor: Bahrain label shows elegant and restrained collection at London Fashion Week

Linen, organza and sequins feature heavily in the designs shown at the event

With a focus on details, a ruched lined cropped top is paired with a skirt swept into a bow at the back. Photo: Sarah Maisey

The show, as they say, must go on.

Against the surreal backdrop of Queen Elizabeth II's death, London Fashion Week is pressing ahead, albeit as a reduced, slightly sombre affair.

Although all parties, openings, and anything deemed too upbeat has been cancelled out of respect, smaller labels are going ahead.

Bahrain's Noon by Noor opened day one, the first full day of the even after a smattering of small shows on Thursday, with a suitably elegant presentation. The label of designers and cousins Shaikha Noor Al Khalifa and Shaikha Haya Al Khalifa, it is known for its understated aesthetic, and this outing reinforces that.

Revealed as 15 looks on mannequins, the new spring/summer 2023 collection is light, breezy and beautifully unfussy despite some intensely luxurious detailing.

Simple, apron-style dresses — entirely backless except for dainty straps — are a key look. They appear as pieced pistachio green-coloured lace on delicate, sheer tulle, as sequins trapped under a layer of silk, in pinkish organza and even in navy cotton, cut and draped from a single piece of cloth.

Elsewhere more draping arrives as skirts in natural linen that sweep snugly around the hips into a great bow at the back, while white linen is used for skirts, both knee and ankle length, and are carefully pleated on the hips, with kilt buckle fastenings.

A loose-fit jacket with patch pockets is another key piece, both as natural linen — cinched over a matching skirt — and as navy bonded, double layered cotton — giving a thick, almost neoprene-like feel that brings a slightly masculine edge.

“We wanted to celebrate with this collection a moment of joy and innocence where fashion once again is a moment of pleasure," said Shaikha Noor.

Beautifully restrained, the focus is very much on small details. There is fragile crochet, with a skirt in pretty scalloping, and a ruched crop top, covered in tight pleating. Simple fabrics such as linen and cotton are used extensively, balanced with gossamer organza in white and pink that comes with a subdued sheen.

The collection is broken by two prints — both floral, and offered as boxy jackets and full skirts, while the collection is rounded out with simple, low-slung trousers.

Light, pretty and airy, the latest collection gives the message that details matter, and the simple fabrics such as cotton can be made noble in the right hands.