Men's Arab Fashion Week in Dubai showcases the best of regional design talent

The third Men's Arab Fashion Week took place this weekend at Dubai Design District. Held in partnership with the Arab Fashion Council, the three-day event featured 15 emerging and seasoned designers showcasing their latest collections. "As an integral part of our d3 community, it is always wonderful to see our home-grown talent showcasing their work," says Khadija Al Bastaki, the executive director of d3. International talent was also showcased, from Lebanon, Iraq, Libya, Jordan, the UK, France, Switzerland and the US. Celebrities and influencers showed their support both on and off the runway, including British singer Conor Maynard and Bollywood actress Urvashi Rautela, with the event offering everything from classic tailoring to innovative technology. Here are some of the highlights ... If there's one theme that ties every Amato Couture show together, it's extravagance. Designer Furne One's autumn/winter 2022-23 menswear collection, entitled Eden, did not disappoint. The show was predominantly made up of robes, capes and trench-like jackets, featuring 50 shades of gold and lashings of leopard print. The Filipino designer served up a star-studded runway with Rautela, Nadia Ferreira, the reigning Miss Universe first runner-up and Miss Universe Paraguay, Laura Olascuaga, Miss Universe Colombia 2020, TikTok star Elvir Aljicevic and Emirati YouTuber Rashed Belhasa , aka "Money Kicks", all walking the catwalk. The Impalpable Dream of the Voyager was the title Filipino designer Michael Cinco gave to his autumn/winter 2022-23 menswear collection. Inspired by travel, it felt like a return to the golden age of aviation, with models walking the runway in decadent suiting and tailoring. Not for your wallflower, the colour palette was vibrant, with shades of blue, cherry reds and exuberant plum layered with turtlenecks in equally uplifting hues. Standout pieces were adorned with layered feathers and sequins, which took 50 to 80 hours to create. Joseph Achajian, the creative director and founder of Lebanese label Maison Du Mec, believes in being unconventional. Calling on guests to "test new waters", the collection, although appearing to offer classic tailoring and suiting, aimed to deliver so much more. Jackets, crisp white shirts and trousers had been crafted for wearers to live life to the fullest. "Rebels in corporate suits, astronauts at the cashier and mad artists disguised as the guy next door …" said the brand. Hailing from Libya, Ibrahim Shebani, the creative director of Born in Exile, wanted to highlight the impact of the country's oil boom on the economic and social landscape. The collection, titled Blood, Sweat and Oil, featured mixed materials with many designs splashed with an oil print. Traditional Libyan patterns were also highlighted, alongside white flowing knitwear reminiscent of the country's customary robes. A new player on the Middle East’s fashion scene, Barmo was established by Bardiya Mortezaei in 2021. Headed by creative and brand manager Behshad Bordbar, alongside concept designer Sima Ahvaz, the house’s collection had pieces inspired by the great artists of the Modernist era. “In this concept we were inspired by seven modern artists, with the only core concept the imagery around the Last Supper,” explains Bordbar. Standout designs included hoodies and trousers crafted out of sport fleece and thick sweaters in bold primary colours. This was the first time Lebanese designer Ahmed Amer launched a collection outside of Beirut, titled Am I Floating Or… The audience got to experience much of the showcase through the designer’s eyes, with illustrations being projected on the runway. Looks included suiting, jackets and athleisure wear, with many pieces featuring custom illustrations, patterns and hand embroidery. American designer Asher Levine is known for his innovative approach to fashion. Working with state-of-the-art materials, illumination technology and digital fashion, he illustrated why celebrities such as Lady Gaga, Nicki Minaj and Doja Cat are fans of his work. Soft tailoring and outwear were at the core of the collection, with a 3D-printed vest and leather jacket stealing the spotlight. Womenswear also featured, with a biomorphic dress inspired by dragonflies and artificial intelligence. The audience were able to use their mobile devices to experience Asher’s new virtual AR fashion in real-time with his wearable NFTs. Pierre-Francois Valette founded Valette Studio in 2020 after winning the Saint Laurent Couture Institute Prize. A lover of sharp tailoring, his work features the highest quality materials and impeccable detailing. Dubbed Classix Nouveau, the collection offered a nod to “quirky elegance a l’anglaise”. This entailed looks that blended formality with streetwear and were inspired by British legends such as David Bowie and Freddie Mercury. Tartan patterns were aplenty, with silhouettes and shapes non-constricting but still cut with couture-like precision. Jordanian artist Zaid Farouki's namesake label showcased six looks inspired by the culture, land and history of the Arab region. Modern interpretations of traditional clothing were emblazoned with the brand’s signature taglines, which mix English and Arabic text to spell out the phrases like “I am oriental”, “I am Arab” and “Being Arab Is My Pride”. The final look was hand-painted by Farouki on the runway and featured the phrases “oriental”, “Arab”, “I am my land” and "Being Arab Is My Pride & Inspiration”. Showcasing the power of upcycling, Beiruti brand Emergency Room works with thrifted second-hand and vintage materials to create one-of-a-kind designs. Founded by Eric Mathieu Ritter in 2018, the sustainable brand presented colourful ensembles with mismatched prints at Men's Arab Fashion Week. Of note was a yellow patchwork jacket that was finished with tassels along its sleeves and a matching short set.

Men's Arab Fashion Week in Dubai showcases the best of regional design talent

Michael Cinco, Amato Couture and Born in Exile were among the brands that presented their latest collections