Exfoliant or emollient: Should you change skincare products with each season?

From ceramide-filled moisturisers in autumn to barrier-protecting emollients in winter, experts share tips to apply throughout the year

Heavy moisturisers with barrier protection and repair formulations are recommended during cold months. Photo: Rituals

While we’re used to adapting our skincare to allow for skin type and evolving age, many of us stick to the same routine and products all year. Climate has always had an impact on skin health, with hydration key for summer and thicker moisturisers recommended to protect winter-chapped skin.

Even in regions such as the UAE, where the evolving seasons are more subtle, changes in temperature, humidity and more can affect the skin in myriad ways, which can then be balanced with a seasonal approach to skincare.

Seasonal skincare

“Adjusting your skincare routine with the changing seasons is essential, as seasonal variations can significantly impact the skin’s health,” says Melissa Van Wyngaard, an educator and ambassador for skincare brand Comfort Zone.

“During hot and humid months, increased perspiration and oil production can lead to congestion, dehydration and breakouts. In colder, drier weather, the skin often becomes parched, tight and even flaky. Tailoring your skincare regime to account for these seasonal shifts ensures optimal skin health year-round.”

Changes in seasons can also influence changes in diet and exposure to sun, illness and allergens, all of which can adversely affect the skin. “In summer, higher humidity and heat might make your skin oilier and more prone to breakouts, so you need lighter, oil-free products,” says Latifa Elnour, pharmacist and founder of Ashri Skin. “In contrast, winter’s cold and dry air can strip moisture from your skin, making richer, more hydrating products essential.”

Spring skincare: Antioxidants and allergens

In warmer countries such as the UAE, wearing SPF all year round is recommended to prevent sunburn, ageing UV exposure and pigmentation. “Spring is a transition period from winter to warmer, more humid spring weather. This can result in fluctuations in oil production and hydration levels,” says Wyngaard.

The early season requires lighter products, such as non-comedogenic moisturisers, gel-based serums and hydrating mists to provide moisture without added heaviness. Antioxidants such as vitamin C and niacinamide can help the skin journey from the harshness of the winter months and protect the skin from environmental stressors.

Additionally, the season is a time when allergies hit their peak as plants and flowers bloom again, releasing pollen. “Increased pollen can lead to allergic reactions that manifest as itchy, red or watery eyes and exacerbated skin conditions like eczema or hives,” says Elnour.

Summer skincare: Hydration and oil control

Higher summer temperatures cause sweating and excess oil production on the skin, both of which can clog pores leading to breakouts, while moisture loss through the epidermis is at its peak, causing dehydration. This can lead to a skin conundrum as experts advise avoiding heavy moisturisers and serums, while also ensuring maximum hydration.

“Summer calls for oil-control ingredients such as salicylic acid and niacinamide to manage excess oil and breakouts,” says Elnour. “Use lightweight hydrators to provide moisture without added heaviness. Ensure effective sun protection with a broad-spectrum sunscreen of SPF30 or higher and integrate antioxidants to protect against environmental damage and brighten the skin.”

During the hotter months, experts advise avoiding thicker, heavier emollient creams, which can often feel greasy on warm skin.

Autumn skincare: Exfoliants and acids

The arrival of autumn can cause skin to feel tighter as the mercury drops and the atmosphere gets noticeably drier. Wyngaard says: “Going from summer’s warmth to cooler autumn temperatures can heighten skin sensitivity and irritation.”

Like spring, the season can affect those with allergies, leading to skin redness and sensitivities. Light exfoliants, which include lactic acid or glycolic acid, can work to soften seasonally affected skin and remove dead skin cells. Hyaluronic acid and squalene can support hydration in drier air for smoother skin.

“During the cooler seasons of autumn and winter, switch to richer moisturisers containing ceramides and fatty acids to prevent dryness and include repairing agents like peptides, to strengthen the skin barrier,” says Elnour. “Heavier creams with hyaluronic acid and fatty acids combat dryness and incorporate soothing agents like oatmeal or aloe vera to calm irritated skin.”

Winter skincare: Ceramides and emollients

Experts agree that winter can be the most challenging season when it comes to skin due to dehydration, skin redness, tightness and capping. “Winter is undeniably the harshest season for the skin,” says Wyngaard. “The combination of colder temperatures and low humidity levels both outdoors and indoors can significantly compromise skin hydration, leading to dryness, flakiness and heightened sensitivity.

“Cold climates outdoors and heated indoor environments both contribute to stripping the skin of its natural oils, which disrupts the skin’s barrier and leads to increased irritation,” she adds.

Avoid astringent products in winter, which tighten and shrink pores, including AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) or highly concentrated acids, which may be too harsh for winter air thus increasing skin sensitivity. Choose thicker, heavier moisturisers and emollients and barrier-protecting and repair formulations, and look for ingredients such as ceramides, shea butter, and fatty acids.

“Exposed areas such as lips, hands and feet can become chapped and cracked due to low moisture,” says Elnour. “Even though the sun may seem less intense in winter, UV rays are still present. This can lead to the misconception that UV protection isn’t necessary during colder months.”

Do you need to buy a new skincare range every season?

Far from splashing out on an array of new products every three or four months, it’s easier and more cost-effective to make small, incremental adjustments to your routine and adapt your existing products to the seasons.

“Adjusting the layers in your routine is key,” explains Elnour. “In winter, you might add a hydrating serum beneath your moisturiser for extra moisture, while in summer, you could simplify your routine by reducing some layers and using lighter, non-greasy formulations to prevent feeling oily. This approach helps you maintain an effective skincare routine without needing a complete overhaul of products each season.”

Tacking on serums and sprays to your existing moisturisers is an easy addition, while a light non-stripping cleanser and light exfoliant can be used year-round and balanced out with lighter or heavier creams based on the season.

Wyngaard says: “By tailoring your cleansing and treatment products to the specific demands of each season, you can maintain balanced, healthy skin throughout the year without the need for an entirely new set of products.”