Rami Kadi's design vision comes full circle

Lebanese-American designer speaks to The National about combining traditional craftsmanship and technology for his most recent offering

Lebanese-American designer Rami Kadi showed his most recent collection in AlUla, Saudi Arabiaimage. Photo: Rami Kadi.

The Middle East has become a melting pot for creative talent, and many home-grown designers are now achieving success on an international scale. However, one thread remains true – no matter how successful Arab designers become, they stay connected to their roots, remembering where they began. One such designer is Lebanese-American couturier Rami Kadi, who founded his brand, Maison Rami Kadi, in Beirut when he was 25.

“Fashion has been my lifelong passion, offering a canvas for expressing my creativity and vision,” says Kadi. “Since childhood, I’ve been captivated by the artistry of clothing, drawn to its transformative potential. Designing allows me to blend craftsmanship with storytelling, bringing dreams to life through exquisite garments that speak to the soul.”

The designer spoke in the wake of the debut of his latest collection, Les Miroirs, which was shown in AlUla, Saudi Arabia, earlier this year. The impressive runway show was a significant step for Kadi, who is dedicated to supporting regional platforms through his work, and it also marked the first time the Royal Commission for AlUla and AlUla Moments have partnered with an Arab designer.

Kadi opened his atelier in Beirut in 2011, and three years later, he emerged on the global fashion scene, when he showed his collection during Paris Fashion Week. His talent caught the attention of clients thanks to his eye-catching creations, which combined craftsmanship and technology.

“Technology plays a significant role in our design process, allowing us to push the boundaries of creativity and innovation,” Kadi says. “From NFTs and glow-in-the-dark embroideries to cyber shows, we’re constantly exploring new tools and techniques to bring our vision to life. Whether it’s experimenting with digital embroidery or incorporating LED technology into our garments, technology offers endless possibilities for artistic expression and craftsmanship.”

Today, with clients worldwide – he has dressed the likes of Kendall Jenner and Alia Bhatt – Kadi is returning to his Middle Eastern roots. The designer chose AlUla to present his collection, which consists of 40 looks, including 10 exclusive haute couture pieces designed specifically for the occasion.

“The showcase of Les Miroirs in AlUla was a significant moment for me as a designer,” he says. “It holds a special place in my heart, and presenting my collection against the backdrop of its breathtaking landscapes and historic landmarks was truly meaningful. It allowed me to celebrate the beauty, tradition and innovation that inspire my work, paying homage to the enchanting allure of AlUla in a mesmerising display of couture craftsmanship.”

The AlUla show took place against the backdrop of striking rock formations, which were a source of inspiration for the Les Miroirs collection. “AlUla, with its rich history, unique landscapes and cultural significance, spoke to me and truly affected my thought process and inspiration, which are catalysts in the creation of any couture collection,” Kadi adds.

“It felt like the perfect setting to unveil the Les Miroirs collection, allowing me to immerse my audience in the timeless beauty and heritage of the region and create a mesmerising experience that combines couture and natural art. The juxtaposition of ancient charm and modern luxury provided a unique backdrop for showcasing the collection, adding depth and dimension to the overall experience.”

From the colours to the sculptural silhouettes, Kadi captured his favourite parts of the region, including the desert and modern architecture of Maraya – the mirrored event space.

“The silhouettes blend sculptural elements with fluid lines, accentuating feminine curves and allowing for graceful movement,” he says. “The colour palette showcases soft pastels, earthy tones and shimmering metallics. Each fabric, including silk, organza and chiffon, was carefully selected to evoke a sense of ethereal luxury. Intricate embellishments and embroidery add depth and texture to every piece, enriching the collection with intricate details and timeless allure.”

The showcase was presented to an audience including Lebanese singer Najwa Karam, Tunisian actress Dorra Zarrouk and Saudi actresses Mila Alzahrani and Futun Aljarallah, who were all dressed in custom-made Rami Kadi couture looks. Along with the ready-to-wear pieces, the collection featured eye-catching accessories, which were created as part of a collaboration with Madrasat Addeera, AlUla’s creative arts centre, which teaches local handicrafts to women.

From the beginning, design has been more than creating beautiful haute couture pieces for Kadi. It’s about making a positive impact. In addition to experimenting with technology and new materials in his collections, the designer pays close attention to the environmental impact of his business.

“Sustainability is not just a buzzword for us, it’s a fundamental pillar of our brand ethos. We’re committed to reducing our environmental footprint and promoting ethical practices throughout our supply chain. This includes sourcing eco-friendly materials, reducing waste in production, and supporting conservation practices.”

This was highlighted once again through the AlUla show, where the designer donated a portion of sales to the preservation and protection of Arabian leopards, which can be found only in the region.

The Saudi fashion industry has rapidly picked up over the past few years, most notably because of the work of the Saudi Fashion Commission, whose vision to evolve the kingdom’s fashion industry is being played out in various ways, including the introduction of Red Sea Fashion Week last month.

Kadi notes the importance of supporting regional talent, saying: “It’s truly exhilarating to witness the surge of creativity, talent and innovation emerging from our region, with each designer pushing boundaries and leaving a lasting mark on the global stage. I am very excited to see how it continues to evolve and shape the future of fashion, opening new possibilities and opportunities for creative expression.”

The AlUla show marks a significant step for the designer, who hopes to expand his brand further this year: “One thing I would still like to do with Maison Rami Kadi is to further expand our global presence and reach new audiences worldwide.

“I envision collaborating with iconic figures in the fashion industry, exploring new markets, and continuing to innovate and evolve as a brand. Ultimately, I want to continue pushing boundaries, redefining the concept of luxury, and inspiring creativity and self-expression through the art of couture.”