While living in New York City in early 2001, Rabia Zargarpur, a native of Dubai, decided to adopt the hijab, or headscarf, into her daily wardrobe. It was then that she was confronted with a dilemma - at least in the eyes of a fashion conscious young woman. Her newly chosen lifestyle left her with nothing stylish to wear. Having graduated from New York's prestigious Fashion Institute of Technology two years earlier, only to abandon her passion to pursue a career in business administration, Ms Zargarpur, or "Rabia Z" as she is known professionally, discovered her calling.
She started designing and sewing simple tunics and long blouses and marketing them to women who wore the hijab in the US. Realising the potential of her designs, she returned to Dubai to begin selling her clothing in the UAE. "I realised there are women around the world that have the same issue - they want to dress modestly, follow their faith and yet they don't want to miss out on what's in style and things that are more fashionable," said the designer, 31, who debuted her first collection last year.
A growing number of men and women in the region are taking on the delicate balancing act of transforming modesty into a hip, chic and mainstream concept without violating the basic principles set by Islamic tradition. With warm weather, tax-free incomes and high levels of consumer spending, designers say their "home" market represents the perfect platform to jump-start any Arab fashion line. The evidence is in the numbers. According to Colliers International, Emirati households represent an average spending power of US$23,000 (Dh84,400) per household per year; Western households average $19,500 a year; other Arabs average $13,500; and Asians average $10,000.
As Dubai and Abu Dhabi emerge as global fashion destinations, designers agree that the evidence of their success is in seeing names such as Calvin Klein and Emilio Pucci strut down the catwalk alongside regional sensations including Rabia Z, Amina Al Jassim and Aisha bin Desmal. It is through their efforts, along with the work of regional governments, that they believe Dubai and Abu Dhabi will soon enhance contributions to the global fashion industry in much the same way as Paris, London and New York.
"We are bringing our culture back to our clothing in a fashionable way, off the rack, ready to wear," said Ms Jassim, from al Khobar, Saudi Arabia. A veteran by Middle East fashion standards, Ms Jassim launched her namesake label in 1984 with jalabayas and abayas that she had designed for herself. Within four years of her debut, Amina Al Jassim had a presence in three Saudi Arabian cities. While the industry continues to grow at a steady pace, insiders insist that more needs to be done to fuel growth at an international level. Just as the new-wave "fusion" interpretations of sari and shalwar khamis by such designers as Ritu Beri or Hemant Trivedi made Mumbai and New Delhi synonymous with mainstream fashion, local designers are looking forward to the day when a beautiful jalabaya is on display in a store window in Knightsbridge, London, or on Fifth Avenue, New York.
Imports of clothing and fashion-related products across the Middle East were estimated at nearly Dh40.4 billion last year, with imports to the GCC alone estimated at more than Dh20.55bn. The UAE exports more than Dh12bn worth of textiles and the industry may soon become the largest trading sector after oil. Dubai's textiles, which include fabrics as well as finished clothing, go to more than 50 countries in Africa, the Middle East, South Asia and Europe. Major exporters to Dubai include China, South Korea, Japan and Indonesia.
"This is not just limited to Arab women," said Ms Jassim. "A conservative woman, whether she is Muslim or not, might take one of my long tops, for example, and wear jeans underneath. A more liberal woman can wear it as a short dress. This is something for everyone." Niche fashion does not come cheap. The most inexpensive items by most of the regional talent averages about Dh1,000, with some priced well above Dh20,000. Many express an interest in launching a High Street-style department store for Arabic fashions, similar to that of the Swedish retailer, H&M, where women can enjoy wearing Middle Eastern designs without spending a fortune.
However, many hurdles stand in the way of this vision. Designers argue that a lack of infrastructure and industry regulations have created a number of issues, especially access to essential tools, such as photographers, models and, vitally, factories capable of producing their work with speed and quality. "I am my own production factory," explained Ms Jassim, who relies on local tailors in Saudi Arabia and Bahrain to bring her designs to life. "If I just had a studio then took my work to a production factory, it would save a lot of time and a lot of money."
Dubai's new Textile City, scheduled to open by the end of this year, is three years behind schedule. The Dh300 million commercial zone, located near International City, is expected to house warehouses, offices and showrooms, where many of the largest merchants and designers are hoping to relocate. Designers hope the new development will offer them the resources they need to mass produce. However, funding is a major concern not only for new talent but also for long-established fashion houses. Events such as Fashion Week are a major launching point for designers looking to gain exposure and financial backing. Rabia Z, for instance, estimates that she will need an investment of at least Dh2m from overseas buyers before she is able to launch her collections at international events.
Designers agree that one of the biggest challenges facing the regional fashion industry today is the lack of copyright laws or regulations to protect the integrity of their designs. "It's terrible! They ruin your collection," insists Ms Jassim. "It is so hard to keep your work away from phonies and imitation." "It makes us scared to show our new designs to people, unless they are one of our VIP customers," says Aisha bin Desmal, a Dubai fashion designer who often surprises buyers when they discover she wears a full-face veil - a sharp contrast to some of the eye-catching and even risqué designs that carry her name.
Some of the UAE's designers hope one day to launch an industry association similar to Alta Gamma or New York's Fashion Center, which would work to protect them against copyright violation or contractual infringements with local shops or factories. The association would also offer workshops for the various areas of expertise, and would help to market designers worldwide as a group, rather than as individuals.
In the meantime, these women are forced to rely on events such as Fashion Week in Abu Dhabi and Dubai, as well as online publicity and old-fashioned word of mouth to establish a steady and reliable customer base. "I think we have a lot of talent in the UAE," says Ms Zargarpur. "Internationally, however, we're not there yet - but soon, inshallah." vsalama@thenational.ae