Wispy white clouds hang long and low over the mossy green mountains, as I prepare to make my ascent. To my right, the gushing torrents of Shannon Falls; to my left, the famous Stawamus Chief, the second-largest granite monolith in the world.
It’s an 885-metre climb above sea level to the summit of Mount Habrich and I take a deep breath as I look up to the clouds, adjust the strap on my backpack and step on board the shiny green carriage of the Sea to Sky Gondola that will sweep me high above the pristine coastal forest during a 10-minute trip with show-stopping views on all sides.
Since it opened in 2014, the gondola has changed the fortunes of Squamish, a sleepy corridor community known as the outdoor recreation capital of Canada and inhabited mainly by fleece-and-Gore-Tex-wearing locals, all enthusiastic hikers, mountain bikers or climbers.
For the rest of the world, Squamish tended to be a halfway point where you stopped for petrol or coffee on your way between the traditionally more exciting spots of Whistler and Vancouver. Now, however, Squamish has transformed into a destination in its own right – it was even named as one of the 52 Places to Go in 2015 in The New York Times.
The gondola has changed things for people like me, too. I wish I were the kind of gal who effortlessly races up mountains, but I’m really not. I’m far more at ease on a rambling hike than a challenging vertical march, but thanks to the gondola, I can take on a whole world of trails and treks through alpine terrain I’d never have been able to access before.
After leaving the gondola, I take photo after photo from the viewing platform looking across the sweeping misty blue-grey Coastal Mountains range and the network of fjords that make up Howe Sound.
I spend a morning happily hiking the well-maintained trails, crossing the gently swinging 100-metre-long Sky Pilot Suspension Bridge (for a low-octane thrill), into the forests and learning more about the history and myths of the Squamish and Stawamus First Nations people – whose ancestral lands I’m exploring – thanks to the interpretive panels along the way.
There’s a cosy fireplace and world-class views in the rather good Summit restaurant at the Lodge, and it’s worth checking online to see if there are any special dining events you can book, such as a fun fondue night.
The journey down proves just as enjoyable as the one up, but it’s time to drive the gloriously scenic Sea to Sky Highway now, which winds along the coast from Vancouver, climbing up into the mountains past glacial lakes towards Whistler.
I’m heading to Sunwolf to check in to a cabin on the river. I’m prepared to rough it, but the heated bathroom floor, comfy bed and well-equipped kitchenette puts paid to that idea. Good. A little luxury in the heart of the forest is just what I want, and discovering that Tom, the chef at the on-site cafe Fergie’s, used to work at Araxi – Whistler’s award-winning fine-dining restaurant – seals the deal.
The river bubbling past my window is the Cheakamus. In winter, it’s a gathering place for bald eagles, who come in their thousands to feast on the salmon that spawn in the river and then die. Sunwolf runs winter Eagle Float tours so you can get up close to these stunning birds as they devour the silvery salmon.
But from June to early September, you can enjoy a more adventurous trip, either along 18 kilometres of whitewater through the nearby Elaho Valley on a whitewater expedition that stops off for a salmon barbecue lunch on a private island, or take a more family-friendly, all-ages splash through Class II (novice) rapids along the Cheakamus.
But if rafting seems a little hard core, then you could try the gentler art of kayaking one of the freshwater lakes that surround Squamish. After an easy hike under the shady canopy of intense green leaves of Douglas firs and past the vivid orange bark of the cedars in Murrin Park or Alice Lake, a pleasant paddle through still waters suits even the most unadventurous beginner. Afterwards, I strip to my swimming costume and wade in – rarely has a swim ever been so refreshing. I lay back and float, eyes squinting in the sunshine, feeling the silky water all around me, looking up at the mountains, which still have a light dusting of snow on top. Bliss.
About 20 minutes away from Sunwolf, down a quiet logging road into the Upper Squamish Valley, lies the Diamond Head ranch. “If you’re the only white guy among 1,300 N’Quatqua, then you’d better put on a good show,” Cowboy Jim smiles and pats the neck of a glossy chestnut mare who nuzzles him adoringly.
Dressed in head-to-toe leathers, with long hair, a droopy moustache and cowboy hat, Jim may look like an extra in a John Wayne movie, but he’s the real deal. Jim spent 30 years living with the N’Quatqua Nation, and there’s nothing he doesn’t know about horses. His reputation has spread as far as Hollywood, and he now regularly trains stuntmen – including Leonardo DiCaprio’s double – in trick riding and horseback archery.
Thankfully, you don’t need any special skills to take part in a trail rail with Jim, and beginners are more than welcome to trot through the forest and splash through the crystal-clear waters of the Squamish and Cheekye rivers. If you’re lucky along the way, you might spot elk or grizzly bears, but you’ll almost certainly see the bald eagles wheel and soar overhead, their awe-inspiring eight-foot wingspan throwing shadow as they fly by.
After a long day making like a Gore-Tex-clad local, it’s easy to sleep soundly, but if you hanker after night-time thrills, head for Squamish and its beloved Howe Sound Brewpub, where you can feast on Canadian treats such as poutine (a gloriously addictive snack of chips, squeaky cheese curds and gravy) and enjoy live music and sweeping sunset views over the mountains from its patio.
By day, downtown Squamish offers a fascinating array of thrift stores and one-off boutiques where you can snap up a unique bargain. Browse handmade soaps and beauty products at Be Clean Naturally (www.becleannaturally.ca) or pick up tempting desserts and artisan chocolate treats at the newly opened Xoco (www.xoco.ca). Eat healthy at the Zephyr cafe with its range of smoothies, wraps and rice bowls, or head to the popular Locavore Food Truck (www.facebook.com/LocavoreFoodTruck), before exploring the shops at the quaint On the Farm Country Market.
Or you could just take a break from all that activity and laze on your deck at Sunwolf instead, listening to the song of the birds and soothing rush of the river as you ponder heading over to Fergie’s for just one more piled-high plate of their rightly famous corned beef hash, before calling it a night and dreaming of embarking on more Squamish adventures the following day.
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Intercontinental Cup
Namibia v UAE Saturday Sep 16-Tuesday Sep 19
Table 1 Ireland, 89 points; 2 Afghanistan, 81; 3 Netherlands, 52; 4 Papua New Guinea, 40; 5 Hong Kong, 39; 6 Scotland, 37; 7 UAE, 27; 8 Namibia, 27
Other must-tries
Tomato and walnut salad
A lesson in simple, seasonal eating. Wedges of tomato, chunks of cucumber, thinly sliced red onion, coriander or parsley leaves, and perhaps some fresh dill are drizzled with a crushed walnut and garlic dressing. Do consider yourself warned: if you eat this salad in Georgia during the summer months, the tomatoes will be so ripe and flavourful that every tomato you eat from that day forth will taste lacklustre in comparison.
Badrijani nigvzit
A delicious vegetarian snack or starter. It consists of thinly sliced, fried then cooled aubergine smothered with a thick and creamy walnut sauce and folded or rolled. Take note, even though it seems like you should be able to pick these morsels up with your hands, they’re not as durable as they look. A knife and fork is the way to go.
Pkhali
This healthy little dish (a nice antidote to the khachapuri) is usually made with steamed then chopped cabbage, spinach, beetroot or green beans, combined with walnuts, garlic and herbs to make a vegetable pâté or paste. The mix is then often formed into rounds, chilled in the fridge and topped with pomegranate seeds before being served.
COMPANY PROFILE
Founders: Alhaan Ahmed, Alyina Ahmed and Maximo Tettamanzi
Total funding: Self funded
The Cairo Statement
1: Commit to countering all types of terrorism and extremism in all their manifestations
2: Denounce violence and the rhetoric of hatred
3: Adhere to the full compliance with the Riyadh accord of 2014 and the subsequent meeting and executive procedures approved in 2014 by the GCC
4: Comply with all recommendations of the Summit between the US and Muslim countries held in May 2017 in Saudi Arabia.
5: Refrain from interfering in the internal affairs of countries and of supporting rogue entities.
6: Carry out the responsibility of all the countries with the international community to counter all manifestations of extremism and terrorism that threaten international peace and security
Joker: Folie a Deux
Starring: Joaquin Phoenix, Lady Gaga, Brendan Gleeson
Director: Todd Phillips
Rating: 2/5
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
A little about CVRL
Founded in 1985 by Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid, Vice President and Ruler of Dubai, the Central Veterinary Research Laboratory (CVRL) is a government diagnostic centre that provides testing and research facilities to the UAE and neighbouring countries.
One of its main goals is to provide permanent treatment solutions for veterinary related diseases.
The taxidermy centre was established 12 years ago and is headed by Dr Ulrich Wernery.
COMPANY PROFILE
Name: Qyubic
Started: October 2023
Founder: Namrata Raina
Based: Dubai
Sector: E-commerce
Current number of staff: 10
Investment stage: Pre-seed
Initial investment: Undisclosed
Company%20Profile
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COMPANY PROFILE
Name: HyperSpace
Started: 2020
Founders: Alexander Heller, Rama Allen and Desi Gonzalez
Based: Dubai, UAE
Sector: Entertainment
Number of staff: 210
Investment raised: $75 million from investors including Galaxy Interactive, Riyadh Season, Sega Ventures and Apis Venture Partners
The specs: 2019 Haval H6
Price, base: Dh69,900
Engine: 2.0-litre turbocharged four-cylinder
Transmission: Seven-speed automatic
Power: 197hp @ 5,500rpm
Torque: 315Nm @ 2,000rpm
Fuel economy, combined: 7.0L / 100km
The specs
Engine: 2.4-litre 4-cylinder
Transmission: CVT auto
Power: 181bhp
Torque: 244Nm
Price: Dh122,900
Company%20Profile
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The Facility’s Versatility
Between the start of the 2020 IPL on September 20, and the end of the Pakistan Super League this coming Thursday, the Zayed Cricket Stadium has had an unprecedented amount of traffic.
Never before has a ground in this country – or perhaps anywhere in the world – had such a volume of major-match cricket.
And yet scoring has remained high, and Abu Dhabi has seen some classic encounters in every format of the game.
October 18, IPL, Kolkata Knight Riders tied with Sunrisers Hyderabad
The two playoff-chasing sides put on 163 apiece, before Kolkata went on to win the Super Over
January 8, ODI, UAE beat Ireland by six wickets
A century by CP Rizwan underpinned one of UAE’s greatest ever wins, as they chased 270 to win with an over to spare
February 6, T10, Northern Warriors beat Delhi Bulls by eight wickets
The final of the T10 was chiefly memorable for a ferocious over of fast bowling from Fidel Edwards to Nicholas Pooran
March 14, Test, Afghanistan beat Zimbabwe by six wickets
Eleven wickets for Rashid Khan, 1,305 runs scored in five days, and a last session finish
June 17, PSL, Islamabad United beat Peshawar Zalmi by 15 runs
Usman Khawaja scored a hundred as Islamabad posted the highest score ever by a Pakistan team in T20 cricket
MATCH INFO
Uefa Champions League semi-final, first leg
Bayern Munich v Real Madrid
When: April 25, 10.45pm kick-off (UAE)
Where: Allianz Arena, Munich
Live: BeIN Sports HD
Second leg: May 1, Santiago Bernabeu, Madrid
COMPANY PROFILE
● Company: Bidzi
● Started: 2024
● Founders: Akshay Dosaj and Asif Rashid
● Based: Dubai, UAE
● Industry: M&A
● Funding size: Bootstrapped
● No of employees: Nine
CRICKET%20WORLD%20CUP%20LEAGUE%202
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Singham Again
Director: Rohit Shetty
Stars: Ajay Devgn, Kareena Kapoor Khan, Ranveer Singh, Akshay Kumar, Tiger Shroff, Deepika Padukone
Rating: 3/5
Tree of Hell
Starring: Raed Zeno, Hadi Awada, Dr Mohammad Abdalla
Director: Raed Zeno
Rating: 4/5
Cricket World Cup League 2
UAE squad
Rahul Chopra (captain), Aayan Afzal Khan, Ali Naseer, Aryansh Sharma, Basil Hameed, Dhruv Parashar, Junaid Siddique, Muhammad Farooq, Muhammad Jawadullah, Muhammad Waseem, Omid Rahman, Rahul Bhatia, Tanish Suri, Vishnu Sukumaran, Vriitya Aravind
Fixtures
Friday, November 1 – Oman v UAE
Sunday, November 3 – UAE v Netherlands
Thursday, November 7 – UAE v Oman
Saturday, November 9 – Netherlands v UAE
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Citadel: Honey Bunny first episode
Directors: Raj & DK
Stars: Varun Dhawan, Samantha Ruth Prabhu, Kashvi Majmundar, Kay Kay Menon
Rating: 4/5
How to protect yourself when air quality drops
Install an air filter in your home.
Close your windows and turn on the AC.
Shower or bath after being outside.
Wear a face mask.
Stay indoors when conditions are particularly poor.
If driving, turn your engine off when stationary.
If you go
Where to stay: Courtyard by Marriott Titusville Kennedy Space Centre has unparalleled views of the Indian River. Alligators can be spotted from hotel room balconies, as can several rocket launch sites. The hotel also boasts cool space-themed decor.
When to go: Florida is best experienced during the winter months, from November to May, before the humidity kicks in.
How to get there: Emirates currently flies from Dubai to Orlando five times a week.
RESULTS
Bantamweight:
Zia Mashwani (PAK) bt Chris Corton (PHI)
Super lightweight:
Flavio Serafin (BRA) bt Mohammad Al Khatib (JOR)
Super lightweight:
Dwight Brooks (USA) bt Alex Nacfur (BRA)
Bantamweight:
Tariq Ismail (CAN) bt Jalal Al Daaja (JOR)
Featherweight:
Abdullatip Magomedov (RUS) bt Sulaiman Al Modhyan (KUW)
Middleweight:
Mohammad Fakhreddine (LEB) bt Christofer Silva (BRA)
Middleweight:
Rustam Chsiev (RUS) bt Tarek Suleiman (SYR)
Welterweight:
Khamzat Chimaev (SWE) bt Mzwandile Hlongwa (RSA)
Lightweight:
Alex Martinez (CAN) bt Anas Siraj Mounir (MAR)
Welterweight:
Jarrah Al Selawi (JOR) bt Abdoul Abdouraguimov (FRA)
Company%20Profile
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EA Sports FC 25
Developer: EA Vancouver, EA Romania
Publisher: EA Sports
Consoles: Nintendo Switch, PlayStation 4&5, Xbox One and Xbox Series X/S
Rating: 3.5/5
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The specs
Engine: 2-litre or 3-litre 4Motion all-wheel-drive Power: 250Nm (2-litre); 340 (3-litre) Torque: 450Nm Transmission: 8-speed automatic Starting price: From Dh212,000 On sale: Now
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Scores
Oman 109-3 in 18.4 overs (Aqib Ilyas 45 not out, Aamir Kaleem 27) beat UAE 108-9 in 20 overs (Usman 27, Mustafa 24, Fayyaz 3-16, Bilal 3-23)