Clothing buttons are reimagined as an artistic medium at the Rush Arts Gallery.  Frank Franklin II / AP Photo
Clothing buttons are reimagined as an artistic medium at the Rush Arts Gallery. Frank Franklin II / AP Photo

The Button Show uses the mundane object to make some powerful statements



There’s no denying buttons are a vital component of clothing – but can they rise to the level of art? A new exhibition in New York aims to prove they can.

Eleven artists have used the everyday, mundane objects to create sculptures, portraits and amazing wearable art – political, personal or whimsical.

Each artist is "pushing buttons" beyond their normal use, reimagining and repurposing them as an artistic medium in contemporary art, says Peter "Souleo" Wright, curator of The Button Show at Rush Arts Gallery in Manhattan's Chelsea.

“What I tried to do with this show was look at artists who were elevating that level of craft and making polished, well-­executed works that can stand next to a painting ... because of the amount of detail and precision in the work.”

In A Harlem Hangover, Beau McCall simulates a spilt wine bottle. It lies on its side on a high pedestal and a long ribbon of buttons cascades into a pool of ruby-red buttons on the floor.

The Harlem artist’s technique involves lining his object with an identical button and then adding a second layer of buttons of varying shapes, sizes and texture for a three-dimensional effect. The stitching that holds them together becomes an integral part of his design.

In another of the artist’s pieces, a school desk becomes a statement about his childhood ­Catholic-school experience, where the punishments were physical and doled out with a ruler. He has covered the surface entirely in wood-tone buttons, with wads of “gum” (piles of pink buttons) stuck to the underside. Several dark-coloured buttons start to spell out the alphabet, but abruptly end in a sassy – and unprintable – phrase. “The school chair is my site of pain, reflection, healing and holy revenge,” says McCall.

A bullseye made of yardsticks and rulers appears above the desk, decorated with letter buttons that spell out phrases such as “what goes on in class, stays in class”.

For San Francisco-based artist Lisa Kokin, buttons are highly personal. When her father, an upholsterer, died in 2001, she created a portrait of him made entirely from of buttons. Until then, they had made only cameos in her largely textile-based works.

The memorial to her father led to other button portraits, including those of activists Rosa Parks and Cesar Chavez. For her sculptures, including a bust of her pet dog, Chico, that is in the show, she builds a chicken-wire structure that she covers in an ­assortment of old and new buttons. A lacy-like stitch ties them together, adding texture and transparency.

“Every button is stitched to its neighbour to form a low-tech, pixilated composition,” she says. “The further back one stands, the more decipherable the image becomes. It is as though I am painting with buttons.”

Other artists use buttons as embellishments. Artist Amalia Amaki, from Tuscaloosa, Alabama, uses them in her work with old photographs, while Los Angeles artist Camilla Taylor applies them to a trio of large otherworldly headless creatures with spindly legs.

The exhibition, which runs until March 12, is presented by the Rush Philanthropic Arts Foundation, which was founded in 1995 by hip-hop producer ­Russell Simmons and his brothers Danny and Joseph “Rev Run” Simmons.

Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.

Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.

Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.

Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.

“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.

Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.

From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.

Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.

BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.

Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.

Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.

“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.

Some clients also have a higher appetite for risk, given the low interest-rate environment that does not provide enough yield for some institutional investors. These clients are keen to invest in illiquid assets, such as private equity and infrastructure.

“What we have seen is a desire for higher returns in what has been a low-return environment specifically in various fixed income or bonds,” he said.

“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”

The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”

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