If places could be ascribed a personality, Mumbai’s would be adaptable. With liberalisation in the early 1990s, large-scale malls and independent specialist stores with contemporary flash sprouted as quickly as bamboo. That these new commercial centres sit perfectly well alongside traditional markets demonstrates that here is a city that holds its contrasts with ease.
As enticing as the Valhalla of sophisticated purchasing options are, don’t neglect the age-old shopping streets — if only to get a sense of Mumbai’s mercantile instinct. If you go at these streets with the zeal of an evangelist, you’ll likely come away with whatever you can dream up. From indigo-dyed cushion covers to sea-urchin-shaped diamond pendants, there’s a litany of things you couldn’t possibly have known you wanted until you arrived.
Designer labels
In a country that reveres its home-grown designers, the store Ensemble at Lion Gate in South Mumbai has the high-flyers rushing in. High-profile designers — including the likes of Tarun Tahiliani, Manish Malhotra and Rajesh Pratap Singh — are among the works you'll see on display. Other neighbouring boutiques to visit — ones that offer attention to detail, innovative fabrics and ornate bridal wear — are those by Rohit Bal, Gaurav Gupta and Sabyasachi Mukherjee. For a jewellery store that glitters like a king's dowry, Amrapali in South Mumbai's Oberoi Shopping Arcade and North Mumbai's Juhu suburb offers precious stones and metals in permutations and combinations that are contemporary interpretations of traditional aesthetics.
Eclectic Garments and Accessories
For clothes and accessories with an Indian accent but a contemporary feel, which also fit easily into your everyday wardrobe, Bombay Electric in south Mumbai is the place to go. Accessories start from Rs500 (Dh28) while clothes start from 4,000 rupees (Dh222).
Standing staunchly against mass-produced pieces is Bungalow Eight. Its conceptually clever, fashion-forward clothes, whimsical accessories and home accoutrements will turn you off the straight and narrow and down a path of enchantment.
If words like “handmade” and “sustainable” warm the cockles of your heart, visit Artisans’ Centre for Art, Craft & Design (0091 982 014 5397). Textiles — from indigenous handlooms to handicrafts — adorn the wooden interiors of this loft. A dupatta, or multipurpose scarf, is priced from 1,100 rupees (Dh62) and a sari is priced from 3,600 rupees (Dh203).
Nearby is Fabindia, the country's largest private platform for clothing and home furnishings made by traditional techniques and hand-based processes. But what it might lose in exclusivity, it more than compensates for in price. A long cotton kurta top starts from 1,200 rupees (Dh68).
Antiques and Knick-Knacks
A place to observe the triumph of a rapidly evolving neighbourhood is Kala Ghoda. Today this area is as well known for its heritage buildings, museums and art galleries, as it is for its plethora of stores and cafes. If Bollywood has you doing a shimmy, but you're keen on pushing musical boundaries, Rhythm House is definitely a punctuation mark on this trail. Genres include ghazals, regional and classical music, with CDs starting from 260 rupees (Dh15).
Just beyond, Filter Shop curates the work of graphic designers, photographers, illustrators and product innovators. The outcome is an eclectic smattering of stationery, prints, books and objets d'art. The price of a notebook starts from 120 rupees (Dh7).
An ode to times past sits at the foot of the Colaba Causeway, in Phillips Antiques. The stately collection includes everything from venerable treasure chests and bronzed Indian statues to silver artefacts and nostalgia-laced photographs of old Mumbai. Pieces start from 2,000 rupees (Dh113).
If you’re looking to take back whimsical bits and bobs as souvenirs and reminders of your trip, Contemporary Arts and Crafts, Tappu Ki Dukaan and The Mumbai Store — all in the Fort Area in South Mumbai — are sure to satisfy your need for country-inspired memorabilia. Stationery, bags, coasters, mugs, sepia-tinted images of the city are all available and start from 200 rupees (Dh11).
Also great for taking home a "piece" of Mumbai is Chimanlals close to Churchgate train station. The paper company has been in the trade for almost 50 years and offers a variety of items, including handmade paper adorned with Indian motifs and prints. Prices start from 40 rupees (Dh2).
Home Decor
Raghuvanshi Mills on Tulsi Pipe Road is a hotspot for home decor and is home to Good Earth. The shop offers a number of charming pieces, including lanterns, brocade cushions and candlestands, all ideal for those who want to adorn their homes with distinctive goods. Items start from 2,000 rupees (Dh113).
Shopping Malls
Acting as a testament to the fact that the city now has a growing middle class with a larger-than-ever-before disposable income is High Street Phoenix, situated in Lower Parel. This promised land of mass consumerism, formerly a mill, is now a 3.3-million-square-foot arena of brands — small and big, Indian and international — punctuated by a number of dining and entertainment options.
Street Shopping
Apart from the splendidly uncoordinated street stalls on Colaba Causeway — selling everything from junk jewellery to cotton T-shirts — are a few gems to be found. Curio Cottage does reasonably priced, semi-precious accessories, using a variety of materials, techniques and styles. A silver bracelet starts from 1,200 rupees (Dh68).
Bandra — the city's undisputedly hippest suburb — is one of the most frequented shopping hubs. Hill Road, worth strolling along, is an explosion of energy, lined by a bevy of stores. Think colourful, hugely affordable bric-a-brac, in no-frills shops that sit side by side. Cheap Jack sells do-it-yourself craft accessories, while Elco Market offers fabric, clothes, leather bags and bed linen in large quantities. There are even small boutiques proffering export rejects and deals on designer brands with minor flaws.
Nearby is Linking Road, which offers shoe shops for everyone, from single-brand stores to street stalls. Regal Shoes (0091 222 414 1358) has a vast repertoire of Kolhapuri slippers — from the sober to the sparkly — starting from 539 rupees (Dh30).
Where to stop for coffee
For years, the sea-facing Sea Lounge in the Taj Mahal Palace was the go-to place for a leisurely coffee and snack. And although an afternoon tea here — with Indian or English snacks and drinks from 400 rupees (Dh22), is still appealing, there's an abundance of fresh choices. Theobroma Patisserie — which aptly translates as "food of the gods" — offers fresh-cut sandwiches, rolls and gooey chocolate brownies, starting from 105 rupees (Dh6).
Kala Ghoda Café also offers coffee and cakes (an especially divine dark chocolate option). Prices start from 105 rupees (Dh6). The Tasting Room — located in Good Earth — has an expansive drinks menu and a range of European specials. Try the marinated watermelon layered with feta, priced at 486 rupees (Dh27).
Candies, located farther north, has long been pumping out an assortment of samosas, curried rolls, juicy homestyle mutton chops, chutney sandwiches and roast chicken. Prices start from 35 rupees (Dh2). Elco Café is also worth a visit and serves quintessential street food. The food is all prepared with bottled water, so even those with weak stomachs can tuck in.
Where to stay
Lavish, historical and regal all appropriately describe the Taj Mahal Palace hotel in South Mumbai. With its Moorish arches, impressive views and numerous restaurant options, it ticks all the boxes. Rooms start from 16,149 rupees (Dh895) per night, including taxes. For a boutique hotel experience, Abode, located just off Colaba Causeway, is sure to satisfy. Each room — cozy and decorated with eclectic flair — reflects the city through its artefacts and design. Rooms start from Rs3,500 (Dh195), per night, including taxes. In Bandra, the Taj Lands End wins on location, views and comfort, with rooms starting from Rs9,350 (Dh517), per night, including taxes.
Getting there
Return direct flights on Etihad start from Dh949 per person, including taxes.