Restaurant review: Table 9 by Darren Velvick

The four-course tasting menu at Table 9 shows Chef Darren Velvick knows what he's doing.

The four-course tasting menu at Table 9 by Darren Velvick is a must-try. Courtesy Hilton Hotels

I’ve heard complaints about Table 9’s not-so-modern decor and its inconvenient location across Dubai Creek – which, for those living in Dubai might seem like another emirate – but stepping into chef Darren Velvick’s new venture at the Hilton Dubai Creek, I set those rumblings aside and focused on the food.

We settled in on a Friday night with no reservations (and no wait) with about 20 diners in the room. The room stayed half-full – or half-empty depending on your outlook – all evening. The staff were quick and attentive to start, but service slowed considerably as the evening wore on. The space is small (it only seats 45), dimly lit and awash in white linen. The ceiling is low, which makes the room feel cramped. The beige carpet with dark circles screams “conference room” and the shiny chrome columns in the middle of the room feel intrusive. But there are a few modern touches – including a widescreen TV that allows for live viewing of the chef at work. But if you’re here for an intimate dinner, as we were, opt for a corner table in the back from where the screen isn’t visible.

My husband and I chose the four-course tasting menu (with the option of substituting items from the three- or six-course menus). The amuse-bouches included eight crispy balls – two each of Parmesan risotto, tempura shrimp, fish and duck (the best of the bunch) served with chilli mayo and lime mayo. We ate them all, but they were somewhat unremarkable. We thought a better start would have been a more interesting signature item from the chef. But, as we soon found out, Velvick is a chef who knows what he’s doing.

We got our first glimpse of Velvick’s talent with my husband’s mackerel ceviche. Crunchy bits of apple, cucumber and croutons contrasted well with the soft fish and velvety avocado. My first course of juicy watermelon and smooth burrata was paired with cucumber and crispy-fried onions. Both dishes were a playground of textures – sweet, salty, crunchy and creamy all at once.

It wasn’t only textures the chef played with, but also flavour combinations. Our second course of a delicate soft-shell crab was smothered in sweet mango and red-pepper flakes. It was equal parts tangy, sweet and spicy. Then came my favourite dish of the night: a crispy soft-boiled egg paired with blanched vegetables. Enveloped in crunchy breadcrumbs, the warm egg oozed yolk as I cut into it. A hint of honey provided sweetness. This was far from a simple egg dish, and it’s a must-try on any visit to Table 9.

My main course was beef fillet set on mushroom marmalade. The fillet was tender, juicy and cooked to a perfect medium-rare, but the flavour wasn’t rich enough for me, and it didn’t make my list of favourite steaks in the UAE. My palate favours grain-fed American beef and this was an Australian fillet. However, it did come with a surprising treat of bone-marrow bonbons. The bite-size bonbons’ crispy-breadcrumb coating gave way to a smooth centre and I savoured them. Bone marrow sounds off-putting, but it’s basically just fat (80 per cent fat, in fact). The bonbons were rich, buttery and akin to eating the best bite of a great steak – the fatty piece with all the flavour.

We found the highlights of the menu in Velvick’s first two courses. His creativity when it comes to texture alone wins him praise, but his talent for coming up with new tastes by combining contrasting flavours makes Table 9 a restaurant worthy of a trek across the creek.

• Dinner for two at Table 9 by Darren Velvick, Hilton Dubai Creek, costs Dh674. Call 04 212 7551 for reservations. Reviewed meals are paid for by The National and conducted incognito