My Kind of Place: Liverpool, England

Situated along the banks of the Mersey River, this northern English city has a distinct identity of its own.

The Albert Dock at Liverpool was originally built in 1870, and has been restored and converted into an attractive public area. iStockphoto.com

Why Liverpool?

This is not the England of unremarkable regional cities, dulled into interchangeability by politeness. Liverpool bristles with identity. It sometimes manifests itself in rose-tinted self-mythology, but a history of being Europe’s gateway to the rest of the world has bred a feisty, distinctive personality.

For the visitor, Liverpool has arguably more to offer than any other English city outside of London. Beyond the predictable Beatles and football tourism is a superb collection of cultural attractions, while ambitious urban regeneration projects have done the central areas massive favours. The Liverpool Biennial, the largest contemporary art festival in the UK, is currently on until October 26.

A comfortable bed

It should perhaps come as no surprise to learn that Liverpool has a Beatles-themed hotel, but the Hard Day's Night (www.harddaysnighthotel.com; 0044 151 236 1964) is surprisingly tasteful in its Fab Four fetishism. Statues of John, Paul, George and Ringo top the marble columns outside, the restaurant décor nods cleverly to the Sergeant Pepper album artwork and Beatlemania is mercifully restrained to a couple of photos in the bedrooms. Doubles cost from £95 (Dh583).

The Bridge Street Liverpool One apartments (www.bridgestreet.com; 0044 151 232 2200) are right in the heart of things, offering plenty of space to sprawl out and excellent facilities including full kitchens and washing machines. They're aimed at longer-term business stays, but make for a superb family option too. One-bedroom apartments from £71 (Dh436).

The Nadler (www.thenadler.com/liverpool; 0044 151 705 2626) manages to keep much of the industrial charm from the 19th- century printworks it's inside, while adding a dose of snazzy monochrome cool. Doubles from £53 (Dh326).

Find your feet

The best of Liverpool is along its waterfront. Stroll from under the shadow of the symbolic liver birds on top of the Royal Liver Building towards the Museum of Liverpool. Opened in 2011, it does a peppy, engaging job of dipping into the themes that make the city what it is – shipping, music, sport, unionised workforces and social problems are all covered.

Head farther along to the city's tourism lynchpin, Albert Dock. The red brick former warehouse buildings are now restaurants, shops and museums. Of the latter, the Tate Liverpool is the big art draw and The Beatles Story is a giddily reverent paean to the Fab Four. The best two are in the same building, though. The International Slavery Museum pulls no-punches exploring of the trans-Atlantic slave trade, in which Liverpool played a major part, and the Maritime Museum tackles famous shipwrecks such as the Titanic and Lusitania. See www.liverpoolmuseums.org.uk.

Meet the locals

Mello Mello (www.mellomello.co.uk; 0044 151 708 0510) is, on the surface, a rather excellent vegetarian cafe. There's live music virtually every night, while the Tilt Studio upstairs covers everything from dance classes to tai chi.

Book a table

If ever someone decides to run a course on how to do the gastropub concept well, they may as well just take their students to The Monro (www.themonro.com; 0044 151 707 9933). The atmosphere is homely, the ingredients are fresh and the food – which comes on a menu willing to take just enough risks – is hugely memorable. Try the £16 (Dh99) pan-fried sea bream with saag aloo potatoes, plum chutney and wilted spinach for something off the usual gastropub track.

The London Carriage Works (www.thelondoncarriageworks.co.uk; 0044 151 705 2222) plays up the localness of its ingredients – such as the £20 (Dh123) roasted Lake District guinea fowl with crisped barley and wild mushrooms – and is a dependably classy local favourite.

Shopper’s paradise

Liverpool One is too big to call a shopping mall, but it’s one of the world’s most impressive city centre regeneration projects. It’s the concentration of big-brand shops – John Lewis, Superdry, Debenhams, Swarovski etc – rather than any individual unknown treasure that makes it a great place to hit with the credit card.

Mathew Street – home of the Beatles’ famous Cavern Club – has a Vivienne Westwood store and a good Beatles memorabilia shop inside the Hard Day’s Night hotel.

What to avoid

Feelthe need to get on the ferry across the River Mersey because of the Gerry and the Pacemakers song? Well, go right ahead. But don't expect anything particularly interesting. And feel for the staff who have to hear Ferry Cross The Mersey on repeat every day.

Don’t miss

Football fans will not want to miss a visit to Anfield, home of the recently resurgent Liverpool FC (www.liverpoolfc.com; 0044 151 260 6677). The £16.50 (Dh102) stadium tour is fascinating – partly due to the ground being old and smaller than most people would expect. Some of the seats are over 100 years old, the dressing rooms are kept deliberately unplush and the stands are thrillingly close to the pitch. The guides do well on the storytelling front, which is more than can be said for the new Liverpool FC Story museum inside the stadium.

Getting there

Etihad (www.etihad.com) flies direct to Manchester from Abu Dhabi, and Emirates (www.emirates.com) from Dubai; return fares around Dh3,505. Direct trains from Manchester Airport to Liverpool Lime Street station cost £14.50 (Dh89); one hour.