Why Liverpool?
This is not the England of unremarkable regional cities, dulled into interchangeability by politeness. Liverpool bristles with identity. It sometimes manifests itself in rose-tinted self-mythology, but a history of being Europe’s gateway to the rest of the world has bred a feisty, distinctive personality.
For the visitor, Liverpool has arguably more to offer than any other English city outside of London. Beyond the predictable Beatles and football tourism is a superb collection of cultural attractions, while ambitious urban regeneration projects have done the central areas massive favours. The Liverpool Biennial, the largest contemporary art festival in the UK, is currently on until October 26.
A comfortable bed
It should perhaps come as no surprise to learn that Liverpool has a Beatles-themed hotel, but the Hard Day's Night (www.harddaysnighthotel.com; 0044 151 236 1964) is surprisingly tasteful in its Fab Four fetishism. Statues of John, Paul, George and Ringo top the marble columns outside, the restaurant décor nods cleverly to the Sergeant Pepper album artwork and Beatlemania is mercifully restrained to a couple of photos in the bedrooms. Doubles cost from £95 (Dh583).
The Bridge Street Liverpool One apartments (www.bridgestreet.com; 0044 151 232 2200) are right in the heart of things, offering plenty of space to sprawl out and excellent facilities including full kitchens and washing machines. They're aimed at longer-term business stays, but make for a superb family option too. One-bedroom apartments from £71 (Dh436).
The Nadler (www.thenadler.com/liverpool; 0044 151 705 2626) manages to keep much of the industrial charm from the 19th- century printworks it's inside, while adding a dose of snazzy monochrome cool. Doubles from £53 (Dh326).
Find your feet
The best of Liverpool is along its waterfront. Stroll from under the shadow of the symbolic liver birds on top of the Royal Liver Building towards the Museum of Liverpool. Opened in 2011, it does a peppy, engaging job of dipping into the themes that make the city what it is – shipping, music, sport, unionised workforces and social problems are all covered.
Head farther along to the city's tourism lynchpin, Albert Dock. The red brick former warehouse buildings are now restaurants, shops and museums. Of the latter, the Tate Liverpool is the big art draw and The Beatles Story is a giddily reverent paean to the Fab Four. The best two are in the same building, though. The International Slavery Museum pulls no-punches exploring of the trans-Atlantic slave trade, in which Liverpool played a major part, and the Maritime Museum tackles famous shipwrecks such as the Titanic and Lusitania. See www.liverpoolmuseums.org.uk.
Meet the locals
Mello Mello (www.mellomello.co.uk; 0044 151 708 0510) is, on the surface, a rather excellent vegetarian cafe. There's live music virtually every night, while the Tilt Studio upstairs covers everything from dance classes to tai chi.
Book a table
If ever someone decides to run a course on how to do the gastropub concept well, they may as well just take their students to The Monro (www.themonro.com; 0044 151 707 9933). The atmosphere is homely, the ingredients are fresh and the food – which comes on a menu willing to take just enough risks – is hugely memorable. Try the £16 (Dh99) pan-fried sea bream with saag aloo potatoes, plum chutney and wilted spinach for something off the usual gastropub track.
The London Carriage Works (www.thelondoncarriageworks.co.uk; 0044 151 705 2222) plays up the localness of its ingredients – such as the £20 (Dh123) roasted Lake District guinea fowl with crisped barley and wild mushrooms – and is a dependably classy local favourite.
Shopper’s paradise
Liverpool One is too big to call a shopping mall, but it’s one of the world’s most impressive city centre regeneration projects. It’s the concentration of big-brand shops – John Lewis, Superdry, Debenhams, Swarovski etc – rather than any individual unknown treasure that makes it a great place to hit with the credit card.
Mathew Street – home of the Beatles’ famous Cavern Club – has a Vivienne Westwood store and a good Beatles memorabilia shop inside the Hard Day’s Night hotel.
What to avoid
Feelthe need to get on the ferry across the River Mersey because of the Gerry and the Pacemakers song? Well, go right ahead. But don't expect anything particularly interesting. And feel for the staff who have to hear Ferry Cross The Mersey on repeat every day.
Don’t miss
Football fans will not want to miss a visit to Anfield, home of the recently resurgent Liverpool FC (www.liverpoolfc.com; 0044 151 260 6677). The £16.50 (Dh102) stadium tour is fascinating – partly due to the ground being old and smaller than most people would expect. Some of the seats are over 100 years old, the dressing rooms are kept deliberately unplush and the stands are thrillingly close to the pitch. The guides do well on the storytelling front, which is more than can be said for the new Liverpool FC Story museum inside the stadium.
Getting there
Etihad (www.etihad.com) flies direct to Manchester from Abu Dhabi, and Emirates (www.emirates.com) from Dubai; return fares around Dh3,505. Direct trains from Manchester Airport to Liverpool Lime Street station cost £14.50 (Dh89); one hour.
Israel Palestine on Swedish TV 1958-1989
Director: Goran Hugo Olsson
Rating: 5/5
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Queen
Nicki Minaj
(Young Money/Cash Money)
What is a Ponzi scheme?
A fraudulent investment operation where the scammer provides fake reports and generates returns for old investors through money paid by new investors, rather than through ligitimate business activities.
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The specs
Engine: 2.7-litre 4-cylinder Turbomax
Power: 310hp
Torque: 583Nm
Transmission: 8-speed automatic
Price: From Dh192,500
On sale: Now
The specs
Engine: 1.5-litre 4-cylinder petrol
Power: 154bhp
Torque: 250Nm
Transmission: 7-speed automatic with 8-speed sports option
Price: From Dh79,600
On sale: Now
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How to protect yourself when air quality drops
Install an air filter in your home.
Close your windows and turn on the AC.
Shower or bath after being outside.
Wear a face mask.
Stay indoors when conditions are particularly poor.
If driving, turn your engine off when stationary.
Zayed Sustainability Prize
BEETLEJUICE BEETLEJUICE
Starring: Winona Ryder, Michael Keaton, Jenny Ortega
Director: Tim Burton
Rating: 3/5
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More on Palestine-Israeli relations
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THE DETAILS
Kaala
Dir: Pa. Ranjith
Starring: Rajinikanth, Huma Qureshi, Easwari Rao, Nana Patekar
Rating: 1.5/5
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Living in...
This article is part of a guide on where to live in the UAE. Our reporters will profile some of the country’s most desirable districts, provide an estimate of rental prices and introduce you to some of the residents who call each area home.
The Cairo Statement
1: Commit to countering all types of terrorism and extremism in all their manifestations
2: Denounce violence and the rhetoric of hatred
3: Adhere to the full compliance with the Riyadh accord of 2014 and the subsequent meeting and executive procedures approved in 2014 by the GCC
4: Comply with all recommendations of the Summit between the US and Muslim countries held in May 2017 in Saudi Arabia.
5: Refrain from interfering in the internal affairs of countries and of supporting rogue entities.
6: Carry out the responsibility of all the countries with the international community to counter all manifestations of extremism and terrorism that threaten international peace and security
Revival
Eminem
Interscope
Gertrude Bell's life in focus
A feature film
At one point, two feature films were in the works, but only German director Werner Herzog’s project starring Nicole Kidman would be made. While there were high hopes he would do a worthy job of directing the biopic, when Queen of the Desert arrived in 2015 it was a disappointment. Critics panned the film, in which Herzog largely glossed over Bell’s political work in favour of her ill-fated romances.
A documentary
A project that did do justice to Bell arrived the next year: Sabine Krayenbuhl and Zeva Oelbaum’s Letters from Baghdad: The Extraordinary Life and Times of Gertrude Bell. Drawing on more than 1,000 pieces of archival footage, 1,700 documents and 1,600 letters, the filmmakers painstakingly pieced together a compelling narrative that managed to convey both the depth of Bell’s experience and her tortured love life.
Books, letters and archives
Two biographies have been written about Bell, and both are worth reading: Georgina Howell’s 2006 book Queen of the Desert and Janet Wallach’s 1996 effort Desert Queen. Bell published several books documenting her travels and there are also several volumes of her letters, although they are hard to find in print. Original documents are housed at the Gertrude Bell Archive at the University of Newcastle, which has an online catalogue.
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