My Kind of Place: Kutch, India, is a bloom in the desert

India's largest district is a birdwatcher’s paradise, known for its storied monuments and textile markets.

The Prag Mahal complex entrance in the historic city of Bhuj, in Kutch district. Raquel Maria Carbonell Pagola / LightRocket via Getty Images

Why Kutch?

The westernmost part of India remains untainted by tourism. While an ad campaign fronted by Bollywood star Amitabh Bachchan has increased the number of Indian visitors, foreign tourists have largely yet to discover either Kutch, or its former capital, Bhuj.

Kutch's unique ecosystem, comprising sea coast, desert, wetland and grassland, hosts abundant birdlife and lies on a key migration route. Rare species regularly seen include the critically endangered Indian bustard and pallid scops owl. The Centre for Desert and Ocean can arrange specialist birding itineraries, including homestays. Yet, one needn't be a hard-core birder to enjoy sightings of myriad species, including flamingos, pelicans, storks, spoonbills and ibises.

Kutch is renowned for some of India’s finest traditional textiles, and many workshops are open to visitors. Specialities include embroidery, bandhani or tie-dye and block-printing, especially geometric ajrakh prints. Some families can trace their textile-producing ancestry back nine generations or more.

A comfortable bed

The Hotel Prince is located at the heart of Bhuj's historic centre and rooms start from 5,709 rupees (Dh314) per night, including breakfast.

Rann Riders eco-resort is well-situated for exploring the Little Rann of Kutch, including the Wild Ass Sanctuary and several excellent birding sites. Cottages are constructed of local materials and feature mirror-work and embroidery. Rooms from 8,000 rupees (Dh440) per night, including full board and a wildlife safari.

Regenta Resort, located three kilometres from the centre of Bhuj, has a pool, spa, and indoor and outdoor gyms, and costs from 6,700 rupees (Dh368), including breakfast.

Find your feet

Check out the birdlife at Hamirsar Lake before visiting the Kutch Museum, the oldest museum in Gujarat. Continue to the Mahadev Gate to enter the old city, and follow the Upli Pad Road to Darbargadh, the main entrance to the palace complex, some of which was damaged in an earthquake in 2001, but parts of which have now been restored.

The 18th-century Aina Mahal (Palace of Mirrors) showcases glass, tiles, furniture and textiles. The 15-metre scroll depicting the royal procession of Maharao Shri Pragmalji Bahadur, and photos of the royal family during the heyday of the Raj are worth studying.

Take time to explore the compound, especially the surviving stone carving. The adjacent 19th-century Prag Mahal features a fine view of Bhuj from its bell tower.

Meet the locals

Shaam-e-Sarhad Village Resort, in Hodka, 60km from Bhuj, has nightly local music concerts in season. Call ahead for details, and prearrange round-trip transportation (2,200 rupees [Dh121]).

Book a table

Sample Gujarat's celebrated vegetarian food at the Hotel Prince's Toral restaurant, which features a thali, or set meal, of several seasonal dishes, including refreshing chaas (buttermilk) and rotis made from bajra (millet). (350 rupees [Dh19] with dessert). Sankalp, in Hotel Oasis, serves excellent South Indian fare. Try the dosa platter for 200 rupees (Dh11).

Bhuj offers limited non-vegetarian options. The venerable local-favoured Noorani (0091 9374332242; Danda Bazar, Gandhi Road) does a great Hyderabadi biryani (130 rupees [Dh7]) and chicken tandoori (260 rupees [Dh14 ]).

Shopper’s paradise

Bhuj remains free of international or even Indian brands. Yet, sadly, in recent years, poor-quality, machine-made goods have displaced traditional textiles in local markets – all the more reason to support home-grown establishments and artists.

Salim Wazir of Kutch Expeditions arranges day trips to workshops where buyers can get handmade textiles directly from the artisans (from 5,000 rupees [Dh275], including a car, driver and guide). His father, A A Wazir, sells museum-quality antique textiles by appointment only (0091 942 743 9671).

For those who lack the time or inclination to visit workshops, here’s a list of shops that offer quality products and bypass middlemen, so that more income flows to artisans or community projects.

Smita Dugar stocks fine contemporary textiles in two shops: Senorita, in the old town (0091 982 542 2319), and Women Artisans’ Marketing Agency (0091 982 549 1419), at Regenta Resort.

Khamir sponsors exhibitions and demonstrations from its stunning campus, 30 minutes from Bhuj, and sells textiles, leather goods, lacquerware and hand-forged bells.

Qasab, a women's collective, specialises in local embroidery, superbly employed in handbags and household textiles.

Shrujan, which was founded in 1969, now employs more than 3,500 women who produce exquisite embroidered shawls and scarves, garments and soft furnishings.

What to avoid

From April through June, summer temperatures regularly top 45 degrees. The monsoon, from July through August, can be magical, with the desert in bloom, but flooding may make travel difficult or impossible. October through February is the best time to visit Kutch.

Don’t miss

The Great Rann of Kutch is part of the largest salt desert in the world, and site of the annual Rann Utsav festival. Kutch Expeditions offers an excursion that concludes with sunset on the Great Rann, for 5,000 rupees (Dh275), including a car, driver and guide.

Go there

Jet Airways flies from Abu Dhabi to Bhuj, via Mumbai, from Dh1,719 return including taxes.