Why Washington DC?
Compromises rarely turn out so fine. Washington wasn’t chosen as the capital of the US due to its history or prestige — it was a chunk carved out of farmland in Virginia and Maryland to keep everyone happy. The position was all-important – close to the dividing line between the North and South – and creating something from scratch stopped the existing cities descending into brawls.
What has been created on that farmland, however, is a city unlike any other on Earth. Global symbols of power such as the White House and US Capitol are joined by scores of other hugely pompous, neoclassical buildings.
Then there’s the museum collection, largely driven by the Smithsonian Institution but complemented by a series of field-leading, private institutions. It is surely the world’s greatest cultural collection, and that’s before even starting on the barrage of visually striking monuments and memorials.
But the city is far more than a gathering of the educational and the eye-popping. It oozes intrigue, compelling narratives and gravitas. The compromise has become a colossus – and one where there’s a lifetime’s worth of things to see and do.
A comfortable bed
The Hay-Adams is an elegant grand old dame, with neoclassical looks and rooms that express individuality while maintaining the air of grace that runs throughout. Some have highly decorative ceilings, while others feature four-poster beds, Juliet balconies and ornamental fireplaces. Barack Obama took over the eighth floor as his temporary headquarters before he was inaugurated, and the rooftop events space has the best views in town of the White House. Prices start from $457 (Dh1,678), per night, including taxes.
A few blocks north, The Jefferson carries off a similar regal vibe. Documents written by the third US president, Thomas Jefferson, line the hallways; original furnishings and wallpaper from his Monticello home have been commissioned for use; and up-to-date technology has been tastefully hidden in antique-looking furniture. Rooms start from $458 (Dh1,682) per night, including taxes.
The Loews Madison — opened in 1963 by then US president John F Kennedy and once used by Russian diplomats as a temporary Kremlin — is a slick, modern business hotel with just enough flair to keep it interesting. Rooms start from $434 (Dh1,594) per night, including taxes.
The Omni Shoreham is a little farther away from the city centre, but is primely positioned next to Rock Creek Park, and boasts an outdoor pool and lavish gardens. Intimate it is not — there are 834 rooms — but that can lead to some exceptional bargains when conferences aren't clogging up the town. There's plenty of pedigree too — presidential inaugural balls are usually held at the Shoreham. Rooms start from $282 (Dh1,035) per night, including taxes.
Find your feet
Washington's axis of power is Pennsylvania Avenue, and the three hour GovWorks tour from Context Travel uses it as the basis for its dive into American politics. Led by a former Associated Press political reporter, it's full of little insights into how the federal government departments intertwine. Tickets as part of a group tour are priced at $85 (Dh312) per person; the price rises to $360 (Dh1,312) for a private tour. There are plenty of anecdotes about "power dining" restaurants and where the "real deals" get sorted on the way. The tour finishes at the Capitol building at the eastern edge of the National Mall.
Tours inside the Capitol are both free and worth booking in advance. The artworks, statues and barrage of marble become more impressive than the idea of it being where the most powerful country on Earth makes its laws.
Washington does have the greatest collection of free stuff in the world — and it'd be perfectly feasible to spend a few days enjoying all the Smithsonian museums, public buildings, monuments and memorials around the Mall. But arguably the most interesting museums have relatively steep entrance fees. The Newseum is a classic case in point. Spread over multiple floors, it looks at the world of journalism, covering everything from those who have died covering news overseas to how specific, well-known stories have been handled by various outlets. There are also a number of interactive opportunities inside. Entry tickets are priced at $22.95 (Dh85) per person.
Most fun, however, is the International Spy Museum. The main section delves into spycraft techniques – all poison-tipped umbrellas, cleverly hidden cameras and false identities – while a big exhibition on the James Bond movie villains is also on display. This can be packaged up for $39.95 (Dh147) per person, including two activities: a GPS guided "mission" around the nearby area and a simulated operation that involves interrogations, safecracking and undercover surveillance.
Meet the locals
The Capitals ice hockey team and Wizards basketball team both play at the Verizon Center, located downtown. The seasons for both kick off in October, and while ticket prices vary by game, you can expect to pay from $55 (Dh202) per person.
Washington also has a strong, and rather be-seen, cultural scene. The major venue is the Kennedy Center, which is home to the National Symphony Orchestra, Suzanne Farrell Ballet and Washington National Opera. Both the Verizon Center and Kennedy Center also play host to myriad national and international touring acts. Ticket prices vary.
Book a table
In a city with no shortage of stuffy power dining spots, Fiola feels relaxed and contemporary enough to allow for the jacket and tie to be ditched.
You’ll still find plenty of lawyers and string pullers in there, but they’ve got taste — the Italian-leaning dishes on offer are exceptionally good. The $40 (Dh147) branzino with Spanish king prawn, grilled leeks and tempura sea beans is particularly melt-in-your-mouth dreamy.
Far more intimate is Komi, an unflinchingly confident joint inside, given it looks like an old house and only offers one option — a $135 (Dh496) Mediterranean-inspired tasting menu. That reservations are made weeks in advance is testament to how well the concept is pulled off.
For a romantic dinner, Iron Gate specialises in small plates and market-priced sharing platters, although it has four-course tasting menus, starting from $60 (Dh220).
There’s a choice between a dark and moody dining room with a fireplace and candles or a leafy central patio underneath a frame of climbing plants. The latter is the optimal choice during the summer months.
Shopper’s Paradise
Tacky Americana is never too hard to find around the major attractions downtown and on the National Mall — but you don't have to stray too far for classier discoveries. Long-standing specialist shops are often the way forward if looking for something special. Fahrney's Pens has been open since 1929 and focuses on special-edition pens — the sort that you'd pass down the generations as a family heirloom like you would a Swiss watch. Near Dupont Circle, the Tiny Jewel Box specialises in exquisite jewellery with vintage leanings. Some of the country's top jewellers are represented among the boutique's collections, and Michelle Obama is known to be a big fan.
The Georgetown area is the place to head to for antiques and artworks. Wisconsin Avenue NW — especially the section north of Q St — is overflowing with galleries and antique stores.
What to avoid
There are so many cultural attractions, monuments and memorials that there is always the temptation to run around, visiting as many grand sites as possible. This approach, however, will leave you frazzled and exhausted rather quickly — particularly given that the distances between the attractions tend to be larger than they look on the map. Be choosy and make sure to mix in some fun stuff in between the cavalcade of worthiness.
Don’t miss
Not all of the Smithsonian museums are around the National Mall. The Steven F Udvar-Hazy Center is an extension of the National Air and Space Museum located in Chantilly, Virginia, right next to Washington Dulles airport. It is also criminally underrated. The planes and spacecraft inside include the Space Shuttle Discovery, a Concorde and the Enola Gay – the aircraft that dropped the atom bomb on Hiroshima. Entry, as with all the Smithsonians, is free. Set aside a few hours before the flight back to take it all in.
Getting there
Etihad flies direct to Washington Dulles airport in 15 hours. Emirates flies from Dubai.